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Owning a GQ RD28T and reading up on other people struggling to keep temps down to prevent the old 2.8 head cracking, and also struggling to plumb any sort of intercooler between the tbo outlet and manifold inlet being directly above. This type of cooler would be ideal for the 2.8 and only having a few inches of pipe between turbo and manifold it would work extremely well and efficiently IMO.
lewie wrote:Owning a GQ RD28T and reading up on other people struggling to keep temps down to prevent the old 2.8 head cracking, and also struggling to plumb any sort of intercooler between the tbo outlet and manifold inlet being directly above. This type of cooler would be ideal for the 2.8 and only having a few inches of pipe between turbo and manifold it would work extremely well and efficiently IMO.
Have you fellas looked into the 2.8s at all??
any help appreciated
lewie
I had a good look at a 2.8 at Dzltec's the other day plenty of room. The intake plenum if I recall is quite large.
I can't see any issues with fitting one of our intercoolers in.
Short intake paths lead to excellent response times.
Don't forget that a radiator and fan also has to fit somewhere. Thats where it can get a little creative in making it all fit. Once that is sorted, the sky is the limit.
Ice tanks, dry ice, refrigerent going through it, nos, you will see sub zero intake temps easily out of these.
Love the bmw motor.
Good luck Matt.
Andy
www.diesel-tec.com.au Ph 03 9739 5031
Ball bearing turbo upgrades for factory turbo vehicles. Got a diesel question just ask.
Home of the twin turbo shorty and many 150rwkw+ patrols.
you can get sub zero with an ice box around an air to air, its finding something that will keep good temps, ie, as close to ambient as possible.
cant wait to see how the BMW goes with getting heat out of the water
97 GQ patrol coilcab. TD42, safari turbo kit with fiddled turbo, D-GAS kit. dyno results to come...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
love ke70 wrote:what happens when you freeze the water though
you can get sub zero with an ice box around an air to air, its finding something that will keep good temps, ie, as close to ambient as possible.
cant wait to see how the BMW goes with getting heat out of the water
I would have thought the lower you can get the coolant temp without freezing the better. The bigger the difference in boosted intake air and the coolant medium the more heat gets taken out of the air = more kw/torque... tho this may only be attainable, in the real driving world, for a relatively short time because the coolant for the coolant is ambient air..
exactly, whatever you do you are not gonna keep the water cold for long, which is why im interested to see how this goes in the BMW, might end up putting it into my race car, but im not convinced i can keep it cool for 20 or 30 laps.
we shall see...maybe
i guess if it ends up arse i can just put it on my ute
97 GQ patrol coilcab. TD42, safari turbo kit with fiddled turbo, D-GAS kit. dyno results to come...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
love ke70 wrote:exactly, whatever you do you are not gonna keep the water cold for long, which is why im interested to see how this goes in the BMW, might end up putting it into my race car, but im not convinced i can keep it cool for 20 or 30 laps.
we shall see...maybe
i guess if it ends up arse i can just put it on my ute
If it gives you 5% more power for the first 5 laps your laughin', you'll be a lap ahead by then.... it's all good from there...
not if i start boiling water, which standard water to airs seem to do very impressively on track days. much better than when an engine boils over from all reports.
and those cores arnt efficient, imagine the amount of heat going into the water in one of these very efficient designs.
but that said, most water to air coolers have very undersized radiators, so a big rad with clean flow should work...maybe
97 GQ patrol coilcab. TD42, safari turbo kit with fiddled turbo, D-GAS kit. dyno results to come...
4inch lift, king springs, efs and procomp shocks
315/70R16 cooper ST's
found fuel economy...
matt.mcinnes wrote:Marin's splitters are in along with a few extra. Along with 4 dash 8 straight fittings.
SNIP
*opens wallet again to pay for some more fantastic engineering*
Should be interesting to see what we can come up with for a radiator for it when I'm home for christmas and we put it all together..... I think we shall be getting the grinder out again lol if only for the grill.
marin
Rum injected
TD42T shorty... got some bolt on and some custom stuff.
Read about it [url=http://www.patrol4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18848]here![/url]
matt.mcinnes wrote:Marin's splitters are in along with a few extra. Along with 4 dash 8 straight fittings.
SNIP
*opens wallet again to pay for some more fantastic engineering*
Should be interesting to see what we can come up with for a radiator for it when I'm home for christmas and we put it all together..... I think we shall be getting the grinder out again lol if only for the grill.
marin
Move the air con thermo fan and lose the air horns and there should be plenty of space with a few minor adjustments.
coxy321 wrote:Off topic, but thats a fuggin HUGE set of brakes on that beamer!!
Yeah, Tom the BMW's owner is also the owner of PPM Racing (Pure Performance Motorsport) He has the brakes made to his specs (6 spot on this car) and also a fine range of H beam conrods and forged pistons mainly for the European market but also does low volume builds as well.
His website is www.ppmracing.com if anyone wants to check out what he does.
Regards Andrew.
We are Tig welders, gravity doesn't worry us.
[img]http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/smilies/weld.gif[/img]
The start of the heat exchanger, after me and Marin and DaveJB spent half the day at the wreckers we elected to go with a late modle Telstar radiator.
We let Marin grind a little bit of the grill away but only a little bit none of the chrome was lost
Feed to the pump
The radiator is currently at TrikFab having Aluminum end tanks welded on, replacing the plastic ones so we can put the water in and out where we want.