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Removing CV's

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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Removing CV's

Post by greg »

Hi All,

I'm kinda doing some preparations for an inevitable CV breakage on the little zook and was hoping for a bit of information regarding CV's and Axels.

1. Is it possible to remove the CV from the Axel (with / withour destroying on or the other)? Could this be done on the trail?

2. Is it possible to put a CV onto an Axel? Could this be done on the trail (or do i need a press or something)?

I'm basically trying to determine if it would be feasible to just carry around a CV in the tool box which would be used to replace the broken CV on the axel - could it be done?

Thanks,
Greg
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Post by Dozoor »

I have removed cv s fom axles , and i usesd a piece of pipe longer than the axle , and a touch bigger dia then axle , axle in pipe hold cvdown agianst pipe , thump whole thing on the hard surface ,axle wieght does work , Or alternative piece of pipe about eight inchs long held with extreme force in solid vice ,use axle end and pull it hard agianst the secured pipe , Funny you asked cause they just talked about it in GT thread for luxs , Just thinking if you where on the trail could probly use the hole where you tow ball fits in for a zook axle I will go check !!
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Post by Dozoor »

No is about 4mm to small , But just took one off i broke about 6 months ago , Time it took between posts ! four good hits on the concrete.and found axle has rooted spline aswell !
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Post by Mczook »

Hi Greg

To prevent the need for fixing a broken CV, I think you should have a chat to Sam at Overkill. I just imported from the US, Spidertrax birfield rings, that were for our comp car that Sam is building. I don't need them anymore so I am sure Sam would be happy to sell them to you. Check them out on the Spidertrax web site www.spidertrax.com . Don't know how much, probably around $70-80 each. You can expect the CV's then to be significantly stronger.

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Post by OVERKILL ENG »

Greg I would take the cv and axle as spares as many a time the cv will wreck the spline and it is easier just to changfe the whole lot.
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Post by Guy »

Dozoor wrote:I have removed cv s fom axles , and i usesd a piece of pipe longer than the axle , and a touch bigger dia then axle , axle in pipe hold cvdown agianst pipe , thump whole thing on the hard surface ,axle wieght does work , Or alternative piece of pipe about eight inchs long held with extreme force in solid vice ,use axle end and pull it hard agianst the secured pipe , Funny you asked cause they just talked about it in GT thread for luxs , Just thinking if you where on the trail could probly use the hole where you tow ball fits in for a zook axle I will go check !!


I have seen the handle of a highlift used sucessfully for this ... (with a rag in it to stop any damage to the diff end of the axle) .. But of the broken CV's I have seen most have at least some rounding of the splines. I have also see these axles reused and hold up to a few more days of wheeling ..
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Post by Dozoor »

Its true mud , most axles cop some damage mainly when the inner part of the cv the star section lets go and allows the spline enough movement to spin whithin ,.
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Post by greg »

Mczook wrote:Hi Greg

To prevent the need for fixing a broken CV, I think you should have a chat to Sam at Overkill. I just imported from the US, Spidertrax birfield rings, that were for our comp car that Sam is building. I don't need them anymore so I am sure Sam would be happy to sell them to you. Check them out on the Spidertrax web site www.spidertrax.com . Don't know how much, probably around $70-80 each. You can expect the CV's then to be significantly stronger.

Cheers


Thanks mate. I've sent a PM to overkill to find out what's what :)
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Post by greg »

Hi All,

Just revisiting this topic for a bit...

Here's the scenerio - i want to carry on the trail what ever parts are most likely to break - CV's are one of these...

But my question is - how likely am i to break the long side CV?

I only know of 1 Long Side Axel CV breaking on a Narrow Track, but has anyone else done this? On a widetrack perhaps?

(Just trying to work out if i should be buying 2 Short Sides, or 1 Short and 1 Long (which may never be used))...

Thanks again. :)
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Post by camskizook »

I broke the long side when i had 1 litre diffs under mine.....didnt take much to break it either, considering it was unlocked
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Post by greg »

camskizook wrote:I broke the long side when i had 1 litre diffs under mine.....didnt take much to break it either, considering it was unlocked


Bummer.. :? Not really what i was hoping to hear there cam.
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Post by camskizook »

Altho, i have been on a fair few drives now with the wide tracks and front lockright and so far so good....... havent really looked like breaking one - but i do drive sensibly (well now anyway)
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Post by DeWsE »

Sorry this my be old news now greg but in one of the 4x4 monthly featured an articale on how to change a cv on a zook..... and it only took them 12 minutes on track. If you like I can find which edition it was in.
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Post by greg »

camskizook wrote:Altho, i have been on a fair few drives now with the wide tracks and front lockright and so far so good....... havent really looked like breaking one - but i do drive sensibly (well now anyway)


Thats more like what i want to hear... :)
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Post by camskizook »

DeWsE wrote:Sorry this my be old news now greg but in one of the 4x4 monthly featured an articale on how to change a cv on a zook..... and it only took them 12 minutes on track. If you like I can find which edition it was in.


I think what greg was referring to was actually removing the broken CV bell bit from the axle itself....I think that article was about just removing the axle and CV as one part..which is pretty simple.... i went to a spares place and only wanted the CV bell bit, but they couldnt remove it from the axle even in the workshop.
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Post by greg »

DeWsE wrote:Sorry this my be old news now greg but in one of the 4x4 monthly featured an articale on how to change a cv on a zook..... and it only took them 12 minutes on track. If you like I can find which edition it was in.


I know of the Antman one where he broke one in his car heading up rocky track just outside of melbourne...

Though i don't recall a suzuki specific one... You'd better fill me in there Dewse.. thanks mate
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Post by greg »

camskizook wrote:i went to a spares place and only wanted the CV bell bit, but they couldnt remove it from the axle even in the workshop.


This is the same story i got from a wrecker down here - however, looking above at some of the other replies to this topic it's pretty clear that i'd be better off carrying around the axel and cv combo as the axel tends to get damaged when the CV goes too...

Just trying to determine now if i would be better off with 2 Short Sides, or 1 Short and 1 Long...
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Post by greg »

camskizook wrote:I broke the long side when i had 1 litre diffs under mine.....didnt take much to break it either, considering it was unlocked


Cam, What did you actually break on the long side? Was it:
1. The long side axel?
2. The long side stub axel?
3. The long side CV?

Thanks mate
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Post by camskizook »

The side of the CV bell snapped...i have a pic of it somewhere if i can find it
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Post by bigsteve »

camskizook wrote:The side of the CV bell snapped...i have a pic of it somewhere if i can find it


If they are on this BB sir links a lot (Greg) will find them :finger:
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Post by greg »

camskizook wrote:The side of the CV bell snapped...i have a pic of it somewhere if i can find it


Thanks mate... I just wanted to confirm that you didn't actually break the long side axel...
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Post by camskizook »

Here is a webcam pic.... i have it sitting on my desk as a paperweight :cool:
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Post by greg »

camskizook wrote:Here is a webcam pic.... i have it sitting on my desk as a paperweight :cool:


I don't see any paper under it... you should tell it to put more effort in or it may be made redundant. :?


Okay... Well it looks like the plan of attack is as follows:

1. Buy a short side axel + cv and stub and a long side axel + cv and stub.

2. Separate the long side axel from the cv and stub.

3. Keep the Short Side axel + cv and Stub and the other cv and stub in the car, and leave the long side axel at home (because it is too long to sqeeze into a little suzuki).

Can anyone see any faults with this plan?

Will it be possible to put swap over the CV and stub axel onto the long side if it goes?
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Post by greg »

Comon Guru's - no response to my last question? :cry:

Oh well - i've since gone out and sourced a CV and Axel for both sides - and neither look overly massive so i think i may just carry then both with me for a lot of the time :)

That way regardless of what gets damaged when a CV goes - i can replace the whole lot no worries* :cool:


* - or at least someone that knows how could do it :)
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Post by camskizook »

well done greg.....congratulations on your purchase :armsup: :armsup: :armsup: :armsup: :armsup: :armsup: :armsup:



Ive got nothing...........
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Post by greg »

camskizook wrote:Ive got nothing...........


I'm crossing you off my guru list Cam. ;)
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Post by camskizook »

greg wrote:
camskizook wrote:Ive got nothing...........


I'm crossing you off my guru list Cam. ;)


I was actually suprised i was on the list to begin with :) :lol: :lol: :lol: :armsup:
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Post by greg »

camskizook wrote:I was actually suprised i was on the list to begin with :) :lol: :lol: :lol: :armsup:


heheh - don't get too cocky mate - anyone that can identify a steering wheel makes it onto my guru list ;)
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Post by camskizook »

To actually write something INTELLIGENT i think it was a better decision to buy 2 complete, because trying to separate the CVs from the axle would of been a PITA on the trail
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Post by stumped »

how much did they set ya back greg? were the from a wrecker?
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