Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Removing CV's
Removing CV's
Hi All,
I'm kinda doing some preparations for an inevitable CV breakage on the little zook and was hoping for a bit of information regarding CV's and Axels.
1. Is it possible to remove the CV from the Axel (with / withour destroying on or the other)? Could this be done on the trail?
2. Is it possible to put a CV onto an Axel? Could this be done on the trail (or do i need a press or something)?
I'm basically trying to determine if it would be feasible to just carry around a CV in the tool box which would be used to replace the broken CV on the axel - could it be done?
Thanks,
Greg
I'm kinda doing some preparations for an inevitable CV breakage on the little zook and was hoping for a bit of information regarding CV's and Axels.
1. Is it possible to remove the CV from the Axel (with / withour destroying on or the other)? Could this be done on the trail?
2. Is it possible to put a CV onto an Axel? Could this be done on the trail (or do i need a press or something)?
I'm basically trying to determine if it would be feasible to just carry around a CV in the tool box which would be used to replace the broken CV on the axel - could it be done?
Thanks,
Greg
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
I have removed cv s fom axles , and i usesd a piece of pipe longer than the axle , and a touch bigger dia then axle , axle in pipe hold cvdown agianst pipe , thump whole thing on the hard surface ,axle wieght does work , Or alternative piece of pipe about eight inchs long held with extreme force in solid vice ,use axle end and pull it hard agianst the secured pipe , Funny you asked cause they just talked about it in GT thread for luxs , Just thinking if you where on the trail could probly use the hole where you tow ball fits in for a zook axle I will go check !!
Hi Greg
To prevent the need for fixing a broken CV, I think you should have a chat to Sam at Overkill. I just imported from the US, Spidertrax birfield rings, that were for our comp car that Sam is building. I don't need them anymore so I am sure Sam would be happy to sell them to you. Check them out on the Spidertrax web site www.spidertrax.com . Don't know how much, probably around $70-80 each. You can expect the CV's then to be significantly stronger.
Cheers
To prevent the need for fixing a broken CV, I think you should have a chat to Sam at Overkill. I just imported from the US, Spidertrax birfield rings, that were for our comp car that Sam is building. I don't need them anymore so I am sure Sam would be happy to sell them to you. Check them out on the Spidertrax web site www.spidertrax.com . Don't know how much, probably around $70-80 each. You can expect the CV's then to be significantly stronger.
Cheers
Dozoor wrote:I have removed cv s fom axles , and i usesd a piece of pipe longer than the axle , and a touch bigger dia then axle , axle in pipe hold cvdown agianst pipe , thump whole thing on the hard surface ,axle wieght does work , Or alternative piece of pipe about eight inchs long held with extreme force in solid vice ,use axle end and pull it hard agianst the secured pipe , Funny you asked cause they just talked about it in GT thread for luxs , Just thinking if you where on the trail could probly use the hole where you tow ball fits in for a zook axle I will go check !!
I have seen the handle of a highlift used sucessfully for this ... (with a rag in it to stop any damage to the diff end of the axle) .. But of the broken CV's I have seen most have at least some rounding of the splines. I have also see these axles reused and hold up to a few more days of wheeling ..
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
Mczook wrote:Hi Greg
To prevent the need for fixing a broken CV, I think you should have a chat to Sam at Overkill. I just imported from the US, Spidertrax birfield rings, that were for our comp car that Sam is building. I don't need them anymore so I am sure Sam would be happy to sell them to you. Check them out on the Spidertrax web site www.spidertrax.com . Don't know how much, probably around $70-80 each. You can expect the CV's then to be significantly stronger.
Cheers
Thanks mate. I've sent a PM to overkill to find out what's what
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Hi All,
Just revisiting this topic for a bit...
Here's the scenerio - i want to carry on the trail what ever parts are most likely to break - CV's are one of these...
But my question is - how likely am i to break the long side CV?
I only know of 1 Long Side Axel CV breaking on a Narrow Track, but has anyone else done this? On a widetrack perhaps?
(Just trying to work out if i should be buying 2 Short Sides, or 1 Short and 1 Long (which may never be used))...
Thanks again.
Just revisiting this topic for a bit...
Here's the scenerio - i want to carry on the trail what ever parts are most likely to break - CV's are one of these...
But my question is - how likely am i to break the long side CV?
I only know of 1 Long Side Axel CV breaking on a Narrow Track, but has anyone else done this? On a widetrack perhaps?
(Just trying to work out if i should be buying 2 Short Sides, or 1 Short and 1 Long (which may never be used))...
Thanks again.
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
DeWsE wrote:Sorry this my be old news now greg but in one of the 4x4 monthly featured an articale on how to change a cv on a zook..... and it only took them 12 minutes on track. If you like I can find which edition it was in.
I think what greg was referring to was actually removing the broken CV bell bit from the axle itself....I think that article was about just removing the axle and CV as one part..which is pretty simple.... i went to a spares place and only wanted the CV bell bit, but they couldnt remove it from the axle even in the workshop.
CAM
DeWsE wrote:Sorry this my be old news now greg but in one of the 4x4 monthly featured an articale on how to change a cv on a zook..... and it only took them 12 minutes on track. If you like I can find which edition it was in.
I know of the Antman one where he broke one in his car heading up rocky track just outside of melbourne...
Though i don't recall a suzuki specific one... You'd better fill me in there Dewse.. thanks mate
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
camskizook wrote:i went to a spares place and only wanted the CV bell bit, but they couldnt remove it from the axle even in the workshop.
This is the same story i got from a wrecker down here - however, looking above at some of the other replies to this topic it's pretty clear that i'd be better off carrying around the axel and cv combo as the axel tends to get damaged when the CV goes too...
Just trying to determine now if i would be better off with 2 Short Sides, or 1 Short and 1 Long...
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
camskizook wrote:I broke the long side when i had 1 litre diffs under mine.....didnt take much to break it either, considering it was unlocked
Cam, What did you actually break on the long side? Was it:
1. The long side axel?
2. The long side stub axel?
3. The long side CV?
Thanks mate
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
camskizook wrote:Here is a webcam pic.... i have it sitting on my desk as a paperweight
I don't see any paper under it... you should tell it to put more effort in or it may be made redundant.
Okay... Well it looks like the plan of attack is as follows:
1. Buy a short side axel + cv and stub and a long side axel + cv and stub.
2. Separate the long side axel from the cv and stub.
3. Keep the Short Side axel + cv and Stub and the other cv and stub in the car, and leave the long side axel at home (because it is too long to sqeeze into a little suzuki).
Can anyone see any faults with this plan?
Will it be possible to put swap over the CV and stub axel onto the long side if it goes?
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Comon Guru's - no response to my last question?
Oh well - i've since gone out and sourced a CV and Axel for both sides - and neither look overly massive so i think i may just carry then both with me for a lot of the time
That way regardless of what gets damaged when a CV goes - i can replace the whole lot no worries*
* - or at least someone that knows how could do it
Oh well - i've since gone out and sourced a CV and Axel for both sides - and neither look overly massive so i think i may just carry then both with me for a lot of the time
That way regardless of what gets damaged when a CV goes - i can replace the whole lot no worries*
* - or at least someone that knows how could do it
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 67 guests