Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
sd33t how to tell cracked head?
sd33t how to tell cracked head?
Hi Guys,
Interested to know if there are any tricks to identifying a cracked head on the sd33? Got the head off and cleaned the surfaces with razor blade, can't see any cracks, I heard the cracks can be well hidden.
Where do cracks typically form? is it worth getting engine shop to perform tests while head is off? $70 to get the head skimmed, any harm in getting this? thought it might be money well spent?
thanks
Interested to know if there are any tricks to identifying a cracked head on the sd33? Got the head off and cleaned the surfaces with razor blade, can't see any cracks, I heard the cracks can be well hidden.
Where do cracks typically form? is it worth getting engine shop to perform tests while head is off? $70 to get the head skimmed, any harm in getting this? thought it might be money well spent?
thanks
70 series ute
There is all differne methods, the dye test is only really relible for external cracks that are visible to the naked eye.ssfabricator wrote:do they use dye penetrant to crack test heads
The best method I have seen is they heat the head up, & run hot water into the water jackets, this then opens the cracks & you can see water running out.
Alternatively, heat in a bath of water & pressurise the water jacket, air escapes from the crack.
Best to get it checked, they were renouned for cracking.
Don't ask me, ask them. I'm just runnin for my life myself.
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
Well they are all following you...
No they ain't, I'm just in front...............
get it reconditioned while its off, done mine few months ago cost me $550 inc head gasket set, mine has a hairline crack between the valve seats on three of the chambers thats the common spot they go but weren't leaking so ill run it till it dies , pray you got no cracks i priced up new head $1000 plus fitting of valves & guides ect about $ 1600 good luck
92 gq lwb 4.2 efi cheezy winch bar ,10000 tjm winch ,custom rear tube bar , rock sliders, 35 bfg muds = plenty of battle scars !
mine has one on the same spot, been running fine and hard and hot for about 3 yrs now without a drama.modifiedman wrote:get it reconditioned while its off, done mine few months ago cost me $550 inc head gasket set, mine has a hairline crack between the valve seats on three of the chambers thats the common spot they go but weren't leaking so ill run it till it dies , pray you got no cracks i priced up new head $1000 plus fitting of valves & guides ect about $ 1600 good luck
Reminds me of my old swb, went really well but use to drink water when it was running high on the temp gauge, every 2-3 hrs of highway driving you had to stop and add about 4-5 litres of water.Wish I had coils wrote:I've had a blown gasket or more likley a cracked head and i have been driving it like that for 2.5 - 3 years as a daily driver, uses water a bit and the temp gets warm but i just watch it and have never worried about it.
Never missed a beat, figured either head troubles or head gasket. always kept an eye on it and never got worse, Still have the engine here for a spare
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 146 guests