THE "silly" question thread

Post by **GRPABT1** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 2:13 am

Alright after getting a quote for calmini rear axles from a reputable seller and finding out I can get chromo front cv's cheaper I am at a crossroads. Does anyone know of any other companies who sell upgraded rear axles or should I just go through stocko rears? I am twisting the splines on the rears with my GTi engine, lockright diff and daily driving on 31 inch pedes.

Post by **ofr57** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 10:39 am

give yuri a call he should be able to make you a pair

Post by **GRPABT1** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 11:12 am

And Yuri is who? And wouldn't custom be more expensive again? Is there any type of heat treating or anything that would be worth getting done to stock axles?

Post by **hobzees4wdshop** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 11:55 am

yuri4x4.com

I priced up some custom upgraded cvs and axles for a customers jimny a few weeks back and they were pretty reasonable. The guy knows his stuff. He quoted around $660 per side so I guessing for rear axles which require less work you could get them cheaper.

Post by **GRPABT1** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 5:30 pm

What size tyres and what power are people running with stock rears? I am leaning towards just replacing them.

Post by **ofr57** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 5:36 pm

I know of 33's ... and i think some of the vic guys run the 34's on stocko rears

Post by **GRPABT1** » Fri Jan 30, 2009 5:39 pm

righto stocko's it is then. Anyone know what they cost new?

Post by **sheps** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 8:44 am

just got myself a g16a vitara carby motor.
will i need to mod the sump to fit this into a sierra and should i use the g16a flywheel or the g13a flywheel.

Post by **nathandi7** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 9:18 am

If you are using the sierra gearbox, use the sierra flywheel and clutch.

Post by **nathandi7** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 9:22 am

Do a search to see pictures of the sump modification. You use the 1.3 sump and cut the baffles out. It also takes a masage with a hammer to clear the front of the crank. you also need a frankestein oil pickup made by using the top half of the 1.6 one and the bottom half of the 1.3 one. All this is to clear the front diff at full flex.

Post by **sheps** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 10:53 am

i have 50mm bumpstop spacers do i still need to hack the sump?

Post by **noelb1** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 11:39 am

GRPABT1 wrote:What size tyres and what power are people running with stock rears? I am leaning towards just replacing them.

I run 33s 6.5 rock hoppers and a locker twisted dr side stock axle and snaped ps side axle in one hit

( but was up a loose hill in second with the boot in and hit a rock section)

Post by **nathandi7** » Sat Jan 31, 2009 9:27 pm

Id use the sierra sump anyway as the deeper pan would have to be better for keeping oil to the motor at very steep angles. If you want to check clearance you could install the motor with the 1.6 sump them check the clearance, if it isnt enough change the sump after.

Post by **Jaffa** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 3:18 pm

Stupid Question

How much is a reasonable amount to pay for a clutch cable for a 1992 carby vitara? Genuine is $90 is that reasonable?. Noone else has one atm.

Post by **fordy1** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 8:14 pm

i cant help but here is my dumb question

i have done a search but none of the results said how a 4wd systems auto lokka works ???, they are now listed for GVs!!

Post by **lockdup** » Mon Feb 02, 2009 9:11 pm

Im running 34" swampers on stocko's, 5.12 diffs and standard motor, also a rear airlocker. no breaks.

Post by **lay80n** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 7:05 am

fordy1 wrote:i cant help but here is my dumb question

i have done a search but none of the results said how a 4wd systems auto lokka works ???, they are now listed for GVs!!

They work the same as a detroit ez-locker or a lock right. Basically they stay locked till there is enough traction at both wheels to overcome the force in the cross pin and allow the clutch packs to seperate and let a wheel turn faster than the other wheel. On lover traction surfaces the wheel will spin before enough torque is reached to overcome the input force, and the diff stays locked. There are plenty of sites on the net that explain it easier with pictures

. Try googleing.

Layto....

Post by **GRPABT1** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 7:29 am

lay80n wrote:
fordy1 wrote:i cant help but here is my dumb question

i have done a search but none of the results said how a 4wd systems auto lokka works ???, they are now listed for GVs!!

They work the same as a detroit ez-locker or a lock right. Basically they stay locked till there is enough traction at both wheels to overcome the force in the cross pin and allow the clutch packs to seperate and let a wheel turn faster than the other wheel. On lover traction surfaces the wheel will spin before enough torque is reached to overcome the input force, and the diff stays locked. There are plenty of sites on the net that explain it easier with pictures . Try googleing.

Layto....

What other traction aids can I use to help me on lover surfaces?

Post by **lay80n** » Tue Feb 03, 2009 8:55 am

GRPABT1 wrote:
lay80n wrote:
fordy1 wrote:i cant help but here is my dumb question

i have done a search but none of the results said how a 4wd systems auto lokka works ???, they are now listed for GVs!!

They work the same as a detroit ez-locker or a lock right. Basically they stay locked till there is enough traction at both wheels to overcome the force in the cross pin and allow the clutch packs to seperate and let a wheel turn faster than the other wheel. On lover traction surfaces the wheel will spin before enough torque is reached to overcome the input force, and the diff stays locked. There are plenty of sites on the net that explain it easier with pictures . Try googleing.

Layto....
What other traction aids can I use to help me on lover surfaces?

Ha ha ha very funny. Just you watch it or i will edit your post

For the google challenged - http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16229

Layto....

Post by cj » Tue Feb 03, 2009 3:58 pm

Jaffa wrote:Stupid Question

How much is a reasonable amount to pay for a clutch cable for a 1992 carby vitara? Genuine is $90 is that reasonable?. Noone else has one atm.

I thought genuine was $70 something plus gst. Bursons were the cheapest at $60 when I got one the other day.

Post by **lockdup** » Wed Feb 04, 2009 10:37 pm

Jaffa. http://www.bbmmotorsports.com.au/sierra.html

Just noticed its a vitara.

Post by **danssurf82** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 2:53 pm

hey jaffa
buy a genuine one, $85 i got one foe a few weeks ago..
aftermarket dont last, i have had a few of em and every time you go through mud they stuff up...
suzispares sell aftermarket for $65, but dont bother just buy genuine

Post by **GRPABT1** » Thu Feb 05, 2009 9:25 pm

How much do rear axles go for (a pair) at wreckers and brand new?

Post by **nicbeer** » Fri Feb 06, 2009 11:58 pm

axles 50-150 a pair i think.

anyone know where the winch links and mounting in bars have gone?

search is being a biach to me.

considering a m8000 to go into the arb bar but mine has been modded for BL and also no outriggers on mine.

Post by **hyzook** » Sat Feb 07, 2009 10:49 am

nicbeer wrote:axles 50-150 a pair i think.

anyone know where the winch links and mounting in bars have gone?

search is being a biach to me.

considering a m8000 to go into the arb bar but mine has been modded for BL and also no outriggers on mine.

May be in my interest to help here

If you have a look in my build thread you will see my ARB bar after paint, disregard the flange mountings but notice the two bars that run back angled down, these run along side the chassis and bolt to an original unused steering box mount and on the pass side I welded a crush tube in. I did it this way so under tension It is very strong but in the event of a collision the flat bar should bend and not send the impact through the chassis (that the theory anyway, hopefully I never need to test it)

Post by **nicbeer** » Sat Feb 07, 2009 11:45 am

hrmm why would that be.

still deciding on it, price is good and shipping wont kill it too much, mainly thinking of strength of bar mounting and weight sitting over the front end.

I did see those bars btw and thought thats what they were for - would it have to have crush tubes? may have issues getting them welded in/engineered as none of my zook is etc.

hmn

Post by **greg** » Wed Feb 11, 2009 4:24 pm

Quick Sanity Check Required...

On a widetrack sierra, can someone please note the course that the two hard lines take from the master cylinder?

i.e.
the rearmost (closest to firewall) goes into the rearmost hole of the widget on the chassis... and then the rearmost hole on the chassis widget goes to the back of the car...

while the front most (closest to headlight) goes to the front most hole of the widget on the chassis... and then the hole pointing in-board on the chassis widget goes to the front of the car...

This is how i expect it to all work - but looking at this pic from hyzook, it appears that the prop value is on the front most hole on the master cylindar - which appears incorrect???

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic138 ... =propor%2A

Post by **greg** » Wed Feb 11, 2009 4:33 pm

more info on the same...

http://www.izook.com/tech/samurai/drive ... stall2.htm

from this link i think i am ok... it has a picture that matches what i think - rearmost hole on firewall is for the rear... and there is this bit of text

...you will need to disconnect the brake line from the master cylinder that feeds the rear brakes. This is the line closest to the firewall.

but still a bit confused

Post by **nicbeer** » Wed Feb 11, 2009 8:14 pm

Rear port on the sierra is the rear brakes

that sounds about correct on the prop valve block thing

Post by **greg** » Thu Feb 12, 2009 11:12 am

thanks Nick...

I checked out a completely un-molested sierra brake setup last night and confirmed that everything i had done was looking good.

looks like a just have mo bleeding mo bleeding to do

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