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THE "silly" question thread
Alright after getting a quote for calmini rear axles from a reputable seller and finding out I can get chromo front cv's cheaper I am at a crossroads. Does anyone know of any other companies who sell upgraded rear axles or should I just go through stocko rears? I am twisting the splines on the rears with my GTi engine, lockright diff and daily driving on 31 inch pedes.
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
yuri4x4.com
I priced up some custom upgraded cvs and axles for a customers jimny a few weeks back and they were pretty reasonable. The guy knows his stuff. He quoted around $660 per side so I guessing for rear axles which require less work you could get them cheaper.
I priced up some custom upgraded cvs and axles for a customers jimny a few weeks back and they were pretty reasonable. The guy knows his stuff. He quoted around $660 per side so I guessing for rear axles which require less work you could get them cheaper.
[url=http://www.4h.com.au]The 4wd Shop[/url] - (03) 5977 7233
Driveline, winch/winch upgrade, Bullbar, HID, 4"/6" GU/GQ Liftkit, 60/80 Series Liftkit, Recovery, Snorkels, Air.
Driveline, winch/winch upgrade, Bullbar, HID, 4"/6" GU/GQ Liftkit, 60/80 Series Liftkit, Recovery, Snorkels, Air.
Do a search to see pictures of the sump modification. You use the 1.3 sump and cut the baffles out. It also takes a masage with a hammer to clear the front of the crank. you also need a frankestein oil pickup made by using the top half of the 1.6 one and the bottom half of the 1.3 one. All this is to clear the front diff at full flex.
I run 33s 6.5 rock hoppers and a locker twisted dr side stock axle and snaped ps side axle in one hit ( but was up a loose hill in second with the boot in and hit a rock section)GRPABT1 wrote:What size tyres and what power are people running with stock rears? I am leaning towards just replacing them.
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
fordy1 wrote:i cant help but here is my dumb question
i have done a search but none of the results said how a 4wd systems auto lokka works ???, they are now listed for GVs!!
They work the same as a detroit ez-locker or a lock right. Basically they stay locked till there is enough traction at both wheels to overcome the force in the cross pin and allow the clutch packs to seperate and let a wheel turn faster than the other wheel. On lover traction surfaces the wheel will spin before enough torque is reached to overcome the input force, and the diff stays locked. There are plenty of sites on the net that explain it easier with pictures . Try googleing.
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
What other traction aids can I use to help me on lover surfaces?lay80n wrote:fordy1 wrote:i cant help but here is my dumb question
i have done a search but none of the results said how a 4wd systems auto lokka works ???, they are now listed for GVs!!
They work the same as a detroit ez-locker or a lock right. Basically they stay locked till there is enough traction at both wheels to overcome the force in the cross pin and allow the clutch packs to seperate and let a wheel turn faster than the other wheel. On lover traction surfaces the wheel will spin before enough torque is reached to overcome the input force, and the diff stays locked. There are plenty of sites on the net that explain it easier with pictures . Try googleing.
Layto....
Build Thread - http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=168546&p=1927514&hilit=GRPABT1%27s+zook#p1927514
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)
Contact:
Ha ha ha very funny. Just you watch it or i will edit your postGRPABT1 wrote:What other traction aids can I use to help me on lover surfaces?lay80n wrote:fordy1 wrote:i cant help but here is my dumb question
i have done a search but none of the results said how a 4wd systems auto lokka works ???, they are now listed for GVs!!
They work the same as a detroit ez-locker or a lock right. Basically they stay locked till there is enough traction at both wheels to overcome the force in the cross pin and allow the clutch packs to seperate and let a wheel turn faster than the other wheel. On lover traction surfaces the wheel will spin before enough torque is reached to overcome the input force, and the diff stays locked. There are plenty of sites on the net that explain it easier with pictures . Try googleing.
Layto....
For the google challenged - http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=16229
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
I thought genuine was $70 something plus gst. Bursons were the cheapest at $60 when I got one the other day.Jaffa wrote:Stupid Question
How much is a reasonable amount to pay for a clutch cable for a 1992 carby vitara? Genuine is $90 is that reasonable?. Noone else has one atm.
[quote="4WD Stuff"]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
I haven't quoted Grimbo because nobody takes him seriously :finger: :finger: :finger: :finger: [/quote]
axles 50-150 a pair i think.
anyone know where the winch links and mounting in bars have gone?
search is being a biach to me.
considering a m8000 to go into the arb bar but mine has been modded for BL and also no outriggers on mine.
anyone know where the winch links and mounting in bars have gone?
search is being a biach to me.
considering a m8000 to go into the arb bar but mine has been modded for BL and also no outriggers on mine.
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
May be in my interest to help herenicbeer wrote:axles 50-150 a pair i think.
anyone know where the winch links and mounting in bars have gone?
search is being a biach to me.
considering a m8000 to go into the arb bar but mine has been modded for BL and also no outriggers on mine.
If you have a look in my build thread you will see my ARB bar after paint, disregard the flange mountings but notice the two bars that run back angled down, these run along side the chassis and bolt to an original unused steering box mount and on the pass side I welded a crush tube in. I did it this way so under tension It is very strong but in the event of a collision the flat bar should bend and not send the impact through the chassis (that the theory anyway, hopefully I never need to test it)
hrmm why would that be.
still deciding on it, price is good and shipping wont kill it too much, mainly thinking of strength of bar mounting and weight sitting over the front end.
I did see those bars btw and thought thats what they were for - would it have to have crush tubes? may have issues getting them welded in/engineered as none of my zook is etc.
hmn
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
Quick Sanity Check Required...
On a widetrack sierra, can someone please note the course that the two hard lines take from the master cylinder?
i.e.
the rearmost (closest to firewall) goes into the rearmost hole of the widget on the chassis... and then the rearmost hole on the chassis widget goes to the back of the car...
while the front most (closest to headlight) goes to the front most hole of the widget on the chassis... and then the hole pointing in-board on the chassis widget goes to the front of the car...
This is how i expect it to all work - but looking at this pic from hyzook, it appears that the prop value is on the front most hole on the master cylindar - which appears incorrect???
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic138 ... =propor%2A
On a widetrack sierra, can someone please note the course that the two hard lines take from the master cylinder?
i.e.
the rearmost (closest to firewall) goes into the rearmost hole of the widget on the chassis... and then the rearmost hole on the chassis widget goes to the back of the car...
while the front most (closest to headlight) goes to the front most hole of the widget on the chassis... and then the hole pointing in-board on the chassis widget goes to the front of the car...
This is how i expect it to all work - but looking at this pic from hyzook, it appears that the prop value is on the front most hole on the master cylindar - which appears incorrect???
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic138 ... =propor%2A
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
more info on the same...
http://www.izook.com/tech/samurai/drive ... stall2.htm
from this link i think i am ok... it has a picture that matches what i think - rearmost hole on firewall is for the rear... and there is this bit of text
...you will need to disconnect the brake line from the master cylinder that feeds the rear brakes. This is the line closest to the firewall.
but still a bit confused
http://www.izook.com/tech/samurai/drive ... stall2.htm
from this link i think i am ok... it has a picture that matches what i think - rearmost hole on firewall is for the rear... and there is this bit of text
...you will need to disconnect the brake line from the master cylinder that feeds the rear brakes. This is the line closest to the firewall.
but still a bit confused
DMA Founding Member #1 - Now Retired
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