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Just a couple of quick questions for the experts. I have a HZJ75 ute with a leaky rear transfer case seal.
Can the seal be accessed from the rear after removing the yoke or does the bearing retainer need to be removed?
Is the Toyota seal good or is there a better “terrain tamer multi lip extra special magic seal” that I should use?
Is the nut easy to remove , the seal easy to pull out (and any thing else I’ve forgotten) or is a job better left to a mechanic.
ozdave wrote:Sounds like I'll need a nut splitter and a new nut. Thanks for the replies. I will go with the genuine seal.
Give it a crack first
just drop your tailshaft and put a rattle gun on it, might just spin off.
I may have just had a bad one :(
You will probably find that the edge of the nut has been peened (probably not the correct term but thats what I call it) onto the shaft to lock it in place. You'll know what I mean when you look at it. Its to stop the nut coming undone. You'll need to get a small chisel and tap the peened section out so it clears the thread. Then it should be fairly easy to rattle undone. Make sure you re-peen the nut to the shaft when you've put it back together.
socket with long breaker bar resting against the chassis and drop the clutch in gear. Dont remember if use foward or reverse gear through and slightly dangerous/dodgey
Jacked wrote:socket with long breaker bar resting against the chassis and drop the clutch in gear. Dont remember if use foward or reverse gear through and slightly dangerous/dodgey
on my fj45 couldnt do this cause it would crush the exhaust before it hit the chassis.
RAY185 wrote:
You will probably find that the edge of the nut has been peened (probably not the correct term but thats what I call it) onto the shaft to lock it in place. You'll know what I mean when you look at it. Its to stop the nut coming undone. You'll need to get a small chisel and tap the peened section out so it clears the thread. Then it should be fairly easy to rattle undone. Make sure you re-peen the nut to the shaft when you've put it back together.
any rattle gun worth its name will be able to spin the nut regardless of the peened in section, unless the nut is stuck good n proper.
RAY185 wrote:
You will probably find that the edge of the nut has been peened (probably not the correct term but thats what I call it) onto the shaft to lock it in place. You'll know what I mean when you look at it. Its to stop the nut coming undone. You'll need to get a small chisel and tap the peened section out so it clears the thread. Then it should be fairly easy to rattle undone. Make sure you re-peen the nut to the shaft when you've put it back together.
any rattle gun worth its name will be able to spin the nut regardless of the peened in section, unless the nut is stuck good n proper.
9 times out of 10 this is true. I have come across quite a few now that simply wont rattle off untill the peened section is tapped out.
RAY185 wrote:
You will probably find that the edge of the nut has been peened (probably not the correct term but thats what I call it) onto the shaft to lock it in place. You'll know what I mean when you look at it. Its to stop the nut coming undone. You'll need to get a small chisel and tap the peened section out so it clears the thread. Then it should be fairly easy to rattle undone. Make sure you re-peen the nut to the shaft when you've put it back together.
any rattle gun worth its name will be able to spin the nut regardless of the peened in section, unless the nut is stuck good n proper.
9 times out of 10 this is true. I have come across quite a few now that simply wont rattle off untill the peened section is tapped out.
x100. i dont even bother trying without bending the section back, have even stuffed the thread on a fwd cv joint because of it!
What about geting the seal out?
