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Vibrations in Swb Patrol
Vibrations in Swb Patrol
Hi,
I have 88' Maverick with 4" spring lift. I have Drop boxes (4-5"), front and rear adjustable panards, 10mm gearbox spacers, and sway bar disconnectors (4").
After all this i still have some vibrations at around 80-85klms. The gear box has been lowered about 20mm cause the drop boxes and spacers make it around 20mm.
It is drivable just not pefect, im thinking next step lower adjustable arms. If i go long lowers do i need to change uppers and do i need to move coil mounts and shockie mounts.
Anyone got any thoughts and if arms are the go how long???
Cheers brad
[/i]
I have 88' Maverick with 4" spring lift. I have Drop boxes (4-5"), front and rear adjustable panards, 10mm gearbox spacers, and sway bar disconnectors (4").
After all this i still have some vibrations at around 80-85klms. The gear box has been lowered about 20mm cause the drop boxes and spacers make it around 20mm.
It is drivable just not pefect, im thinking next step lower adjustable arms. If i go long lowers do i need to change uppers and do i need to move coil mounts and shockie mounts.
Anyone got any thoughts and if arms are the go how long???
Cheers brad
[/i]
Thanks for replys.
I had a 3" lift in it with no vibrations. With the new 4" Lift i installed the panard rods front and rear, then the drop boxes went in, this fixed all the front end troubles and made the vibrations alittle better. Then installed the gear box spaces this has made it 90% better but yeah at 80klm the vibration comes back. Under 80klm you wouldn't know there was any problem.
I might give the upper control arms ago. With these do u need any other mods like coil mounts??
Cheers Brad
I had a 3" lift in it with no vibrations. With the new 4" Lift i installed the panard rods front and rear, then the drop boxes went in, this fixed all the front end troubles and made the vibrations alittle better. Then installed the gear box spaces this has made it 90% better but yeah at 80klm the vibration comes back. Under 80klm you wouldn't know there was any problem.
I might give the upper control arms ago. With these do u need any other mods like coil mounts??
Cheers Brad
hmm i'd get your wheels balanced as i have the exact same prob with my 35's but i know its that coz i lost a small stick on weight.
wen i first put the tyres on brand new they were balanced but had to take to another wheel balancing mob coz the balancing machine was not sensitive enough apparently! which fixed my 80km vibrations.
wen i first put the tyres on brand new they were balanced but had to take to another wheel balancing mob coz the balancing machine was not sensitive enough apparently! which fixed my 80km vibrations.
i just lengthened my lower arms last night.
i also just put a 4 inch lift in, bad vibs round 80 and tailshaft would sound like it was grinding when u back off or put clutch in. made my arms 18mm longer than stock. took 45 mins to make the new arms, i got a mates spare set, measured them up worked out what lenth piece of pipe i needed and cut the arm in half, an slid both ends into the pipe, re weld after you get the angles right, perfect. cost me 50 bucks for pipe and i had heaps of pipe left.
stock lower arms are shite anyway, sooner or later you will bend or break 1, or 2.
i also just put a 4 inch lift in, bad vibs round 80 and tailshaft would sound like it was grinding when u back off or put clutch in. made my arms 18mm longer than stock. took 45 mins to make the new arms, i got a mates spare set, measured them up worked out what lenth piece of pipe i needed and cut the arm in half, an slid both ends into the pipe, re weld after you get the angles right, perfect. cost me 50 bucks for pipe and i had heaps of pipe left.
stock lower arms are shite anyway, sooner or later you will bend or break 1, or 2.
85 hi top drover, 31s, 2 inch exended shackles 2 inch bl.
88 tb42 swb mav,35 claws, 4 inch lift
88 tb42 swb mav,35 claws, 4 inch lift
it all depends on what you wanna spend your money on, if you buy fixed length lowers, that are 16mm longer, they may not fix the vibes, but these will be alot stronger, as you will bend stock ones anyway, the upper are adjustable and you have a large amount of adjustment i think we adjusted ours about 15mm shorter than stock, could have been more,
its a personal opinion, on which is better, you can try longer lowers first, if there is still a vibe, you may need adjustable uppers, we,
its a personal opinion, on which is better, you can try longer lowers first, if there is still a vibe, you may need adjustable uppers, we,
If it does have a double carden joint in the rear drive-shaft it changes everything in regards to setting it up.Shortie Mav wrote:I also forgot it has double cardinal drive shaft.
No DC joint you want to rotate your diff forward to drop the pinion as others have mentioned.
With a DC joint you want to rotate it back so the universal joint at the pinion is running in a straight line with your drive-shaft.
So which is it? It might be better to post a picture of your set up so people know exactly what they are giving advice on.
What's the difference between ignorance and apathy? I don't know and I don't care.
I am an insomniac dyslexic agnostic. I often lay awake all night wondering if there really is a Dog.
I am an insomniac dyslexic agnostic. I often lay awake all night wondering if there really is a Dog.
I am having the same problem, huge vibrations issues at 90-100klm with a brand new 4 inch lift. Every suspesnion and steering part is brand new, 16mm longer lowers and adjustable uppers with a brand new double cardinal, gearbox lowered 15mm. Before this I had 3 inch lift with gearbox lowered 15mm and zero vibartions.
I have zero vibrations at lowers speeds but at 90 the vibartions are bloody bad the the rear drive shaft feels like its going to fly off.
I have searched and am confused a some say to get your pinion straight with the drive shaft and some say that both unis have to be on the same angle!
I have zero vibrations at lowers speeds but at 90 the vibartions are bloody bad the the rear drive shaft feels like its going to fly off.
I have searched and am confused a some say to get your pinion straight with the drive shaft and some say that both unis have to be on the same angle!
Longer lower arm is good without a double cardan as this lowers the pinion and keeps it parallel to the output flange, with a double cardan the principle is different, the pinion needs to point at the output flange, so longer upper arms would be the fix, longer arms are the way to go as they pushes the diff rearwards putting the wheels back into the middle of the arch, restoring the wheelbase.
Joel
Joel
-Pre trip inspections/ servicing
-Suspension/ custom modifications
-4wd Dyno & tuning
-Qualified mechanics
-Suspension/ custom modifications
-4wd Dyno & tuning
-Qualified mechanics
high pinion rear. will fix all your probs up. or adjustable uppers. good luck. gq front 3rd with gq lsd or locker bolted into crown wheel. dont forget to move your filler hole up to match.
that f***n hippy in that f*"*""n g60
76 troll rockin a rb30 gq driveline, rollin on 37's and flexin with a 4 link.
buildup at downunder4x4.net
76 troll rockin a rb30 gq driveline, rollin on 37's and flexin with a 4 link.
buildup at downunder4x4.net
There should be no operating angle at the pinion end of your DC driveshaft ie; the pinion should be pointing directly upwards into the driveshaft. To do this properly it will necessitate the cutting and rotation of coil perches and shock mounts.SIM79 wrote:I am having the same problem, huge vibrations issues at 90-100klm with a brand new 4 inch lift. Every suspesnion and steering part is brand new, 16mm longer lowers and adjustable uppers with a brand new double cardinal, gearbox lowered 15mm. Before this I had 3 inch lift with gearbox lowered 15mm and zero vibartions.
I have zero vibrations at lowers speeds but at 90 the vibartions are bloody bad the the rear drive shaft feels like its going to fly off.
I have searched and am confused a some say to get your pinion straight with the drive shaft and some say that both unis have to be on the same angle!
Alternatively you can scrap your DC driveshaft and go back to a standard shaft and try and run the pinion and transfer outputs parallel. Depending upon the operating angle of the driveshaft this may alleviate all or most-of your vibrations.
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
Cheezy used to have a few reasons no to be using the high pinion in the rear. If you searched around I think you could find exactly what it was....
I remember it being something to do with insufficient lubrication.... due to things being in upside down and back the front.....
I have a feeling you might have taken care of the negative aspects with the higher filler hole ????
I remember it being something to do with insufficient lubrication.... due to things being in upside down and back the front.....
I have a feeling you might have taken care of the negative aspects with the higher filler hole ????
[quote="MSCHIF"]SPUA its like shaving a barbie dolls head, amusing but pointless.[/quote]
The oil is not slung as effectivly onto the pinion bearings when it is high meaning you have to run a much higher oil level which puts extra pressure on already leakage prone Nissan axle seals. High pinions are often not as strong.
Joel
Joel
-Pre trip inspections/ servicing
-Suspension/ custom modifications
-4wd Dyno & tuning
-Qualified mechanics
-Suspension/ custom modifications
-4wd Dyno & tuning
-Qualified mechanics
up in rocky a lot of the comp boys run rear high pinions with few dramas. most of those guys are running 250hp + with few breakages. as for the oil level you could always make the filler hole even higher i guess. and axle seals well there not that hard to replace. i did find that its a bit of a drag diggin it out on tha beach though. lolz i think im gunna make a skid for mine.
that f***n hippy in that f*"*""n g60
76 troll rockin a rb30 gq driveline, rollin on 37's and flexin with a 4 link.
buildup at downunder4x4.net
76 troll rockin a rb30 gq driveline, rollin on 37's and flexin with a 4 link.
buildup at downunder4x4.net
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