Vibrations in Swb Patrol

Post by **Shortie Mav** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:02 pm

Hi,
I have 88' Maverick with 4" spring lift. I have Drop boxes (4-5"), front and rear adjustable panards, 10mm gearbox spacers, and sway bar disconnectors (4").

After all this i still have some vibrations at around 80-85klms. The gear box has been lowered about 20mm cause the drop boxes and spacers make it around 20mm.

It is drivable just not pefect, im thinking next step lower adjustable arms. If i go long lowers do i need to change uppers and do i need to move coil mounts and shockie mounts.

Anyone got any thoughts and if arms are the go how long???

Cheers brad

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Post by **Shortie Mav** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:05 pm

I also forgot it has double cardinal drive shaft.

Post by **Newhouse** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:17 pm

Hey mate,

check all you bushes. Panhard bushes can be a pain. also get a wheel alignment and check you tyre pressures. They may look alright but you might be surprised. Also check front wheel bearing adjustment.

Post by **ozy1** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:22 pm

i think you need adjustable upper arms and tilt the pinion forwards,

we did a SWB the other week, we used 10mm gearbox spacers and adjustable upper arms, this fixed it, and pretty much no vibrations at all.

Post by **Shortie Mav** » Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:30 pm

Thanks for replys.

I had a 3" lift in it with no vibrations. With the new 4" Lift i installed the panard rods front and rear, then the drop boxes went in, this fixed all the front end troubles and made the vibrations alittle better. Then installed the gear box spaces this has made it 90% better but yeah at 80klm the vibration comes back. Under 80klm you wouldn't know there was any problem.

I might give the upper control arms ago. With these do u need any other mods like coil mounts??

Cheers Brad

Post by **TR3LOS351** » Wed Jun 03, 2009 3:09 pm

hmm i'd get your wheels balanced as i have the exact same prob with my 35's but i know its that coz i lost a small stick on weight.

wen i first put the tyres on brand new they were balanced but had to take to another wheel balancing mob coz the balancing machine was not sensitive enough apparently! which fixed my 80km vibrations.

Post by **Shortie Mav** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 6:56 pm

thanks mate ill drop it in for a balance!

Post by **waandy** » Thu Jun 04, 2009 10:03 pm

i just lengthened my lower arms last night.
i also just put a 4 inch lift in, bad vibs round 80 and tailshaft would sound like it was grinding when u back off or put clutch in. made my arms 18mm longer than stock. took 45 mins to make the new arms, i got a mates spare set, measured them up worked out what lenth piece of pipe i needed and cut the arm in half, an slid both ends into the pipe, re weld after you get the angles right, perfect. cost me 50 bucks for pipe and i had heaps of pipe left.
stock lower arms are shite anyway, sooner or later you will bend or break 1, or 2.

Post by **SIM79** » Fri Jun 05, 2009 5:57 am

ozy1 wrote:i think you need adjustable upper arms and tilt the pinion forwards,

we did a SWB the other week, we used 10mm gearbox spacers and adjustable upper arms, this fixed it, and pretty much no vibrations at all.

X2 adjustable upper arms

Post by **Shortie Mav** » Sat Jun 06, 2009 9:55 am

thanks for all the advice but i still dont know uppers or lowers everyone is saying different things some uppers some say lowers.. what to do??

From the looks of things both options will fix it!

Post by **ziggy_170** » Sat Jun 06, 2009 10:21 am

i've got a SWB and put a 3.5" lift with drop boxes in mine, as it had bad vibrations and a grinding noise when decellerating from high speeds. i got shorter fixed upper ams (only cause they were much cheaper than adjustables) from superior and it fixed the problem.

Post by **ozy1** » Sat Jun 06, 2009 10:36 am

it all depends on what you wanna spend your money on, if you buy fixed length lowers, that are 16mm longer, they may not fix the vibes, but these will be alot stronger, as you will bend stock ones anyway, the upper are adjustable and you have a large amount of adjustment i think we adjusted ours about 15mm shorter than stock, could have been more,

its a personal opinion, on which is better, you can try longer lowers first, if there is still a vibe, you may need adjustable uppers, we,

Post by **Nelso** » Tue Jun 09, 2009 9:58 pm

Shortie Mav wrote:I also forgot it has double cardinal drive shaft.

If it does have a double carden joint in the rear drive-shaft it changes everything in regards to setting it up.

No DC joint you want to rotate your diff forward to drop the pinion as others have mentioned.

With a DC joint you want to rotate it back so the universal joint at the pinion is running in a straight line with your drive-shaft.

So which is it? It might be better to post a picture of your set up so people know exactly what they are giving advice on.

Post by **Shortie Mav** » Mon Jun 15, 2009 8:00 pm

Thanks mate,

Yeah it has Double Cardinal rear tail shaft... So u think i should get longer uppers then??

And with the photos i have no idea how to get photos up!

Post by **SIM79** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 9:51 pm

I am having the same problem, huge vibrations issues at 90-100klm with a brand new 4 inch lift. Every suspesnion and steering part is brand new, 16mm longer lowers and adjustable uppers with a brand new double cardinal, gearbox lowered 15mm. Before this I had 3 inch lift with gearbox lowered 15mm and zero vibartions.
I have zero vibrations at lowers speeds but at 90 the vibartions are bloody bad the the rear drive shaft feels like its going to fly off.
I have searched and am confused a some say to get your pinion straight with the drive shaft and some say that both unis have to be on the same angle!

Post by **PGS 4WD** » Fri Sep 11, 2009 10:26 pm

Longer lower arm is good without a double cardan as this lowers the pinion and keeps it parallel to the output flange, with a double cardan the principle is different, the pinion needs to point at the output flange, so longer upper arms would be the fix, longer arms are the way to go as they pushes the diff rearwards putting the wheels back into the middle of the arch, restoring the wheelbase.

Joel

Post by **76patrol** » Sat Sep 12, 2009 8:37 am

high pinion rear. will fix all your probs up. or adjustable uppers. good luck.

gq front 3rd with gq lsd or locker bolted into crown wheel. dont forget to move your filler hole up to match.

Post by **JemmyBubbles** » Sat Sep 12, 2009 9:18 am

SIM79 wrote:I am having the same problem, huge vibrations issues at 90-100klm with a brand new 4 inch lift. Every suspesnion and steering part is brand new, 16mm longer lowers and adjustable uppers with a brand new double cardinal, gearbox lowered 15mm. Before this I had 3 inch lift with gearbox lowered 15mm and zero vibartions.
I have zero vibrations at lowers speeds but at 90 the vibartions are bloody bad the the rear drive shaft feels like its going to fly off.
I have searched and am confused a some say to get your pinion straight with the drive shaft and some say that both unis have to be on the same angle!

There should be no operating angle at the pinion end of your DC driveshaft ie; the pinion should be pointing directly upwards into the driveshaft. To do this properly it will necessitate the cutting and rotation of coil perches and shock mounts.

Alternatively you can scrap your DC driveshaft and go back to a standard shaft and try and run the pinion and transfer outputs parallel. Depending upon the operating angle of the driveshaft this may alleviate all or most-of your vibrations.

Post by **SIM79** » Sat Sep 12, 2009 10:36 am

Thanks for info, JemmyBubbles, 76patrol and PGS 4WD.

Post by **SIM79** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 5:59 am

76patrol wrote:high pinion rear. will fix all your probs up. or adjustable uppers. good luck. gq front 3rd with gq lsd or locker bolted into crown wheel. dont forget to move your filler hole up to match.

Is high pinion rear just back part off the front diff?

Post by **76patrol** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 9:06 am

yep its the 3rd member from the front with front gear set. but with rear lsd or locker bolted in. plus higher filler hole.

Post by **JemmyBubbles** » Mon Sep 14, 2009 4:02 pm

Cheezy used to have a few reasons no to be using the high pinion in the rear. If you searched around I think you could find exactly what it was....

I remember it being something to do with insufficient lubrication.... due to things being in upside down and back the front.....

I have a feeling you might have taken care of the negative aspects with the higher filler hole ????

Post by **PGS 4WD** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:20 pm

The oil is not slung as effectivly onto the pinion bearings when it is high meaning you have to run a much higher oil level which puts extra pressure on already leakage prone Nissan axle seals. High pinions are often not as strong.

Joel

Post by **JemmyBubbles** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 8:00 pm

Put this thread in the bible..... the swb vibration question gets asked alllllllllll the ShortyIQ time... everything has been addressed here.

Post by **76patrol** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 7:44 am

up in rocky a lot of the comp boys run rear high pinions with few dramas. most of those guys are running 250hp + with few breakages. as for the oil level you could always make the filler hole even higher i guess. and axle seals well there not that hard to replace. i did find that its a bit of a drag diggin it out on tha beach though. lolz i think im gunna make a skid for mine.

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