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trouble starting a 1hz 75

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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trouble starting a 1hz 75

Post by stock.as.arock »

does anyone no wat the problem could be i went to drive out of my drive way off to a mates starts no problem got out of my drive way put it into second lost everything now power at all car stops i thought i must have run out of fuel i will try start it again and nothing come up when i turned the key no cd uhf dash light nothing car wont start and iv checked every fuse u can think off that i can find i still have lights and horn but nothing else so then i checked batrey everything was nice and tight nothing loose or should go wrong has anyone had this problem
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Post by Chucky »

Put a multi meter on the battery and check what voltage.
And I'd start checking the fuseable links from the battery
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Post by stock.as.arock »

yer nothing wrong with it its still got 12.6v and iv checked all the fuses that i cna find but there is nothing wrong with any of them
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Post by Z()LTAN »

loose terminal on battery, or alternator
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Post by Kitika »

I had the same thing happen in the jackaroo i'm driving at the moment it was the turbo timer, it had a loose connection/bad earth. Could be something like that if you have one installed.
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Post by stock.as.arock »

nar there all good and i even put jumper leads on my car with me mates cruiser and still nothing and nar no turbo yet lol
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Post by roblrc »

Check the fusible links at the battery, looks like normal wire but has a push together terminal only a short distance from the battery post. Usual colours green, yellow or white, colour dictates fuse amperage.
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Post by Ice »

check the connection to the alternator
xxxx wrote:
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Post by stock.as.arock »

nar cant find anything like that all the wires are just wires the only fuse i got or connetion comming off my battery is my spotties and i also checked the connection to the alternator and its all good
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Post by berad »

Ice wrote:check the connection to the alternator
There is a link in a black box in the engine bay, pull the alternator one out and bridge the connections, if that blows you have 0 power anywhere.

Theres usually 3 or so that look the same, along with the headlight etc fuses that look different, you want the ones that are square blocks, sometimes hard to tell if its blown, so just remove it and as i said bridge the 2 terminals that is plugs into.
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Post by cozzav8 »

chuck a jumper lead from negative terminal to engine block somewhere, sounds like bad earth
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Post by stock.as.arock »

i checked the black box and its working fine i tested the fuses and they are fine and i checked the earth with the jumper lead and that didnt work could it be a fryed wire or ingtion problem
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Post by crozza »

I HAVE HAD THE EXACT PROBLEM WITH MY 1HZ 75 SERIES.. TURN THE KEY AND DEAD AS A DOORNAILIUS....MINE WAS A SHITTY PLUG IN THE WIRING HARNES IN THE ENGINE BAY.. ITS LOCATED UNDERNEATH THE BATTERY AREA . THERE ARE 2 OF THEM. HAS AROUND 8 PINS IN IT. 1 WAS NOT PUSHED TOGETHER PROPERLY AND AS YOU HIT A BUMP IT KILLED THE ENGINE AND STARTER...

HAVE A LOOK AND SEE IF YOU CAN FIND THEM AND PULL THEM APART AND RECONNECT THEM AND IT MIGhT DO IT....

ONLY DIFFERENCE WAS MINE STILL HAD DASH LIGHTS ETC ..
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Post by stock.as.arock »

crozza wrote:I HAVE HAD THE EXACT PROBLEM WITH MY 1HZ 75 SERIES.. TURN THE KEY AND DEAD AS A DOORNAILIUS....MINE WAS A SHITTY PLUG IN THE WIRING HARNES IN THE ENGINE BAY.. ITS LOCATED UNDERNEATH THE BATTERY AREA . THERE ARE 2 OF THEM. HAS AROUND 8 PINS IN IT. 1 WAS NOT PUSHED TOGETHER PROPERLY AND AS YOU HIT A BUMP IT KILLED THE ENGINE AND STARTER...

HAVE A LOOK AND SEE IF YOU CAN FIND THEM AND PULL THEM APART AND RECONNECT THEM AND IT MIGhT DO IT....

ONLY DIFFERENCE WAS MINE STILL HAD DASH LIGHTS ETC ..


mate that sounded like it then i went out pulled my battery out but nothing under it so i looked around my engine bay near the battery the only thing i could find was a plug that held 11 wires i pulled that apart had a look looked fine put it back together but still nothing lol
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Post by howesy »

I'm with cozzav8 get a good quality jumper lead and bight it to the block but on the battery make sure you bight the terminal post itself and not just the clamp. get your multimeter and see if the voltage reading on the positive clamp faulters when someone hits the crank. Clamps can show a connection and then drop out when loaded.
Doing this you eliminate one problem at a time instead of chasing your tail.
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Post by stock.as.arock »

yer tryed that howesy didnt show any voltage drop at all
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Post by crozza »

The plug i was refering to was under my second battery so its up near the firewall on the left side if you have a single battery....

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Post by stock.as.arock »

[quote="crozza"]The plug i was refering to was under my second battery so its up near the firewall on the left side if you have a single battery....

yer thats the one i checked out but didnt seem to be the problem
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Post by crozza »

no dramas....good luck with it
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Post by stock.as.arock »

thanks for ya help fellas but i found out wat it was it was a fryed wire just off the battery
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Post by Dane »

Sounds like the fusible link as they boys were referring to above. They blow for a reason, you must have another fault that caused it to blow.
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