![armsup :armsup:](./images/smilies/icon_ruff.gif)
thanks aza..
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Aza wrote:hey guys, i am on the verge of getting a lock right for the front, i would like to know how others rate this kinda locker and how good they are for a daily driver, etc, any info is appreciated![]()
thanks aza..
Aza wrote:ok well i was fully gee'd up to get a front locker but bubs has suggested i get a rear instead to start off with so i will simple ask, which would give me better off road performance? a rear or front locker or which do u recommend??
RUFF wrote:Learn to drive first
RUFF wrote:Ok im only going to say this once. Auto lockers suck. They are unpredictable and they are also weak.If you want a cheap locker. Weld it.
If you want a locker that you can drive on and off road with no problems there is only one.ARB AIRLOCKER.
RUFF wrote:Im not Argueing just stating Facts.
If you want my advise. Buy an Airlocker.
POS wrote:AZA if i was you, i would weld the rear and save up a bit more for a ARB for the front! (or depending on when you want to buy something maybe Sam will have the T/contol on the market by then)
Back to what RUFF was saying about a auto locker shock loading, heres what happened to me.
When i was running the 35 Boggers i got a tyre bound up, it popped the right side Inner Axle, so i replaced that and went out wheeling again, there was still no drive, then i realised that the LEFT hub had expanded providing no drive, So i replaced that. Then when i drove it again there was still no drive, pulled the centre out and the four pins in the lock right had sheared off.
The shock from the inner breaking went threw the Locker onto the other hub (or vice versa). With a air locker this will never happen. Yes you will pop A cv or inner but you will not have the flow on effect!!!!
If you are worried about the rear axles not holding up to a welded centre, don't. I have not busted a rear axle yet!!!!!!
Aza wrote:bottum line is arb locker is too expesive at the moment, if i weld the front the money i save can go towards longfields and a second front diff
RUFF wrote:Aza wrote:bottum line is arb locker is too expesive at the moment, if i weld the front the money i save can go towards longfields and a second front diff
Welding the front will be ok. To make it more drivable offroad you just unlock one hub till you need the locker.
Why do you need a second front diff?
RUFF wrote:Do you even talk to Bubs about any of this?
Or is this where these stupid ideas of yours come from?
Ok Hypotheticaly speaking here.
You are going to weld the front diff centre that is currently in your rig. Then you are going to spend prob $450 to buy another set of 4.88open gears so you can fit these and wheel it a couple of times off road.
Wouldnt it make more scence to wheel it as is now for a $000000 outlay then weld it later. Or if you are willing to spend $450 to buy a diff you are going to use a couple of times why not just buy the Airlocker.
POS wrote:RUFF wrote:Do you even talk to Bubs about any of this?
Or is this where these stupid ideas of yours come from?
Ok Hypotheticaly speaking here.
You are going to weld the front diff centre that is currently in your rig. Then you are going to spend prob $450 to buy another set of 4.88open gears so you can fit these and wheel it a couple of times off road.
Wouldnt it make more scence to wheel it as is now for a $000000 outlay then weld it later. Or if you are willing to spend $450 to buy a diff you are going to use a couple of times why not just buy the Airlocker.
AZA WTF!!!!
If this is the case and by the sounds of it is than think about it for a minute and do the maths!!!!
If you are buying a second centre (about $400.00) and you are thinking of a Lock right aswell (about $550.00) than thats already $950.00!!!!!!
A couple hundred more and you have a AIR locker!!!!!!!!!![]()
![]()
RUFF wrote:I dont think you should weld the front diff but if you want to do it on the cheap this is the best way to do it.
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 12 guests