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front or rear lock right??
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
front or rear lock right??
hey guys, i am on the verge of getting a lock right for the front, i would like to know how others rate this kinda locker and how good they are for a daily driver, etc, any info is appreciated
thanks aza..
thanks aza..
Last edited by Aza on Sun Feb 15, 2004 11:35 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: front lock right
Aza wrote:hey guys, i am on the verge of getting a lock right for the front, i would like to know how others rate this kinda locker and how good they are for a daily driver, etc, any info is appreciated
thanks aza..
Being a daily driver doesn't matter! Once you unlock the hubs a FRONT Lock right won't effect anything!
If you expect to wheel hard then learn how to change a CV (or save up for longfields then learn how to change a broken inner axle).
On the other hand they are a good CHEAP locker that will get you started!
Also i think if you are running on anything smaller than a 35 then the front should hold together ok with a Lock Right!
How much are you paying, is it new or second hand???????
520$ seems to be the cheapest i have found brand new, i do have the money for it atm, but that is going towards tray and rollbar, i will only use the lock right for a yr or 2, then i will have changed the diffs to widen the car and get some arb's for it, i just dont wanna by shit that will break!!!!
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lol well if u think its good bj it must be worth it , atm i have 200$ put away for it so in a couple of weeks ill get the thing
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Auto lockers are pretty much always locked in when offroad ,if your got welder just weld it,if your going to fit air lockers in the future this gets replaced.
[url=http://downunder4x4.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1650]86 Hilux[/url]
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awesome, im hoping to have my car repainted within the next 2 months, so then i will acturlly post some pics of it , thanks for the info fellas
4sum4, that is a good idea but i would prefer not to have a welded diff, thanks for that anyway
4sum4, that is a good idea but i would prefer not to have a welded diff, thanks for that anyway
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ok well i was fully gee'd up to get a front locker but bubs has suggested i get a rear instead to start off with so i will simple ask, which would give me better off road performance? a rear or front locker or which do u recommend??
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Aza wrote:ok well i was fully gee'd up to get a front locker but bubs has suggested i get a rear instead to start off with so i will simple ask, which would give me better off road performance? a rear or front locker or which do u recommend??
First of all i agree with ruff, you should just be learning how to wheel full stop before getting to involved with mods.
But if you want to then all well and good!
Why on earth anyone would put a lockright in the rear is beyond me.
The lockright in the rear of any 4wd will work just like a Welded diff on and off road (it will be locked 90% of the time).
Meaning if you are going to be using this as a daily driver a lockright will chew out tyres and is far more unpridictable than a welded in the rear!
IMO a locked front does heaps more than a locked rear in most off roading situations. If you want to work this out for yourself then perhaps you (and BUBS) can try this and see what happens!
As you have a hilux and the front and rear is interchangable, set up the lockright in the rear and then with the front hubs unlocked drive threw a track and see how far you get, then go home swap it for the front and pull the rear shaft out and repeat the process (make sure you choose the same line) and see what the difference is. (make sure you take Bubs with so he can see for himself).
And if your going to put a lockright in the rear (and still drive on the road) then you might aswell weld it!!!
RUFF wrote:Learn to drive first
i plan to have 2 diffs for this exact reason thats why i will be learning to drive on the 33's i have instead of the 36's im ganna get
for the first 6 months of me having my licence i will probable have no locker and 33's on the car, trust me i aint a stupid one the locker and 36's will be in the shed at that time, but i might as well get em while i have the money and dont have to pay for fuel
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RUFF wrote:Ok im only going to say this once. Auto lockers suck. They are unpredictable and they are also weak.If you want a cheap locker. Weld it.
If you want a locker that you can drive on and off road with no problems there is only one.ARB AIRLOCKER.
well im on a budget i can afford an air locker but then i wouldnt have the money to fix all the shit i have forgotten, if i welded the front would that effect the turning of the car even in 2wd? that is my worry about welding it
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How can it effect the turning if the hubs are unlocked? It will effect it in 4wd but only as much as an Airlocker will when its locked.
The welded centre will make it harder all the time when you are in 4wd the Airlocker wont.
At least with a welded centre or an Airlocker when you break CV there is no chance of shockloading the locker and destroying it like you can with a lockright.
And if you are going to go to 36s then the lockright is going to have even less of a chance.
The welded centre will make it harder all the time when you are in 4wd the Airlocker wont.
At least with a welded centre or an Airlocker when you break CV there is no chance of shockloading the locker and destroying it like you can with a lockright.
And if you are going to go to 36s then the lockright is going to have even less of a chance.
lol theres no point to argue cuase u no heaps more than me, i will probable just weld the front, but defantly arb when $$$ allows
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RUFF wrote:Im not Argueing just stating Facts.
If you want my advise. Buy an Airlocker.
we will see how money goes..... i have approx 4500$ for mods :rolls:
thanks for that tony, ill keep in mind what u have said
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AZA if i was you, i would weld the rear and save up a bit more for a ARB for the front! (or depending on when you want to buy something maybe Sam will have the T/contol on the market by then)
Back to what RUFF was saying about a auto locker shock loading, heres what happened to me.
When i was running the 35 Boggers i got a tyre bound up, it popped the right side Inner Axle, so i replaced that and went out wheeling again, there was still no drive, then i realised that the LEFT hub had expanded providing no drive, So i replaced that. Then when i drove it again there was still no drive, pulled the centre out and the four pins in the lock right had sheared off.
The shock from the inner breaking went threw the Locker onto the other hub (or vice versa). With a air locker this will never happen. Yes you will pop A cv or inner but you will not have the flow on effect!!!!
If you are worried about the rear axles not holding up to a welded centre, don't. I have not busted a rear axle yet!!!!!!
Back to what RUFF was saying about a auto locker shock loading, heres what happened to me.
When i was running the 35 Boggers i got a tyre bound up, it popped the right side Inner Axle, so i replaced that and went out wheeling again, there was still no drive, then i realised that the LEFT hub had expanded providing no drive, So i replaced that. Then when i drove it again there was still no drive, pulled the centre out and the four pins in the lock right had sheared off.
The shock from the inner breaking went threw the Locker onto the other hub (or vice versa). With a air locker this will never happen. Yes you will pop A cv or inner but you will not have the flow on effect!!!!
If you are worried about the rear axles not holding up to a welded centre, don't. I have not busted a rear axle yet!!!!!!
POS wrote:AZA if i was you, i would weld the rear and save up a bit more for a ARB for the front! (or depending on when you want to buy something maybe Sam will have the T/contol on the market by then)
Back to what RUFF was saying about a auto locker shock loading, heres what happened to me.
When i was running the 35 Boggers i got a tyre bound up, it popped the right side Inner Axle, so i replaced that and went out wheeling again, there was still no drive, then i realised that the LEFT hub had expanded providing no drive, So i replaced that. Then when i drove it again there was still no drive, pulled the centre out and the four pins in the lock right had sheared off.
The shock from the inner breaking went threw the Locker onto the other hub (or vice versa). With a air locker this will never happen. Yes you will pop A cv or inner but you will not have the flow on effect!!!!
If you are worried about the rear axles not holding up to a welded centre, don't. I have not busted a rear axle yet!!!!!!
im more worried about wearing down tyres faster then they should
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bottum line is arb locker is too expesive at the moment, if i weld the front the money i save can go towards longfields and a second front diff
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Aza wrote:bottum line is arb locker is too expesive at the moment, if i weld the front the money i save can go towards longfields and a second front diff
Welding the front will be ok. To make it more drivable offroad you just unlock one hub till you need the locker.
Why do you need a second front diff?
RUFF wrote:Aza wrote:bottum line is arb locker is too expesive at the moment, if i weld the front the money i save can go towards longfields and a second front diff
Welding the front will be ok. To make it more drivable offroad you just unlock one hub till you need the locker.
Why do you need a second front diff?
to use the first couple of times off road
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Do you even talk to Bubs about any of this?
Or is this where these stupid ideas of yours come from?
Ok Hypotheticaly speaking here.
You are going to weld the front diff centre that is currently in your rig. Then you are going to spend prob $450 to buy another set of 4.88open gears so you can fit these and wheel it a couple of times off road.
Wouldnt it make more scence to wheel it as is now for a $000000 outlay then weld it later. Or if you are willing to spend $450 to buy a diff you are going to use a couple of times why not just buy the Airlocker.
Or is this where these stupid ideas of yours come from?
Ok Hypotheticaly speaking here.
You are going to weld the front diff centre that is currently in your rig. Then you are going to spend prob $450 to buy another set of 4.88open gears so you can fit these and wheel it a couple of times off road.
Wouldnt it make more scence to wheel it as is now for a $000000 outlay then weld it later. Or if you are willing to spend $450 to buy a diff you are going to use a couple of times why not just buy the Airlocker.
fit the air locker in the rear and deal with rest when you got the money.
If your runing 36" tyres offroad and rear locker you will be nailing tracks That you never thought you would.
If your runing 36" tyres offroad and rear locker you will be nailing tracks That you never thought you would.
[url=http://downunder4x4.net/forum/showthread.php?t=1650]86 Hilux[/url]
and a 84 extra cab
If Rocks Had P^ssies Our Lives Would Be Perfect :D...
and a 84 extra cab
If Rocks Had P^ssies Our Lives Would Be Perfect :D...
RUFF wrote:Do you even talk to Bubs about any of this?
Or is this where these stupid ideas of yours come from?
Ok Hypotheticaly speaking here.
You are going to weld the front diff centre that is currently in your rig. Then you are going to spend prob $450 to buy another set of 4.88open gears so you can fit these and wheel it a couple of times off road.
Wouldnt it make more scence to wheel it as is now for a $000000 outlay then weld it later. Or if you are willing to spend $450 to buy a diff you are going to use a couple of times why not just buy the Airlocker.
AZA WTF!!!!
If this is the case and by the sounds of it is than think about it for a minute and do the maths!!!!
If you are buying a second centre (about $400.00) and you are thinking of a Lock right aswell (about $550.00) than thats already $950.00!!!!!!
A couple hundred more and you have a AIR locker!!!!!!!!!
POS wrote:RUFF wrote:Do you even talk to Bubs about any of this?
Or is this where these stupid ideas of yours come from?
Ok Hypotheticaly speaking here.
You are going to weld the front diff centre that is currently in your rig. Then you are going to spend prob $450 to buy another set of 4.88open gears so you can fit these and wheel it a couple of times off road.
Wouldnt it make more scence to wheel it as is now for a $000000 outlay then weld it later. Or if you are willing to spend $450 to buy a diff you are going to use a couple of times why not just buy the Airlocker.
AZA WTF!!!!
If this is the case and by the sounds of it is than think about it for a minute and do the maths!!!!
If you are buying a second centre (about $400.00) and you are thinking of a Lock right aswell (about $550.00) than thats already $950.00!!!!!!
A couple hundred more and you have a AIR locker!!!!!!!!!
i hadnt acturlly done the maths on a diff center, but i was planning on doing that if it wasnt so expensive, i would believe a diff center would only be bout 100$ pretty much all that is set in stone for my car is the springs and the tyres, everything else still needs to be sorted out, and that is why this thread is hear, cuase what locker i should run is one thing i dont know much on and havnt a clue what to get, and i dont wanna make a bad decision cuase theres a big price difference between lockers and i cant afford to throw cash around on shit, so if u guys reacon just weld the front diff AFTER i have learnt how to drive, then i would probable end up doing that (sorry i can be abit dumb sometimes)
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RUFF wrote:I dont think you should weld the front diff but if you want to do it on the cheap this is the best way to do it.
yeah i think it would be the best for me, as long as i can drive it hard i'll b happy
THANKS FOR EVERYONE WHO PUT IN AN IMPUT MUCH APPRECIATED
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