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torsion bars
Moderator: -Scott-
torsion bars
hi all i have just fitted new suspension to my gen 1 paj (coils & shocks) then i tryed to wind up the torsion bars and nothing happened no change in hight is there a way of raising the front end without buying new torsion bars
I think your in the same problem as me, I've got a 40mm lift in my Gen 1 Pajero with longer shocks and all that, the torsion bars are wound up as far as they go, but the front still sits low, I think your best option is probably new bars... I know I'll be looking for a set in the future.. I only know of one brand that does torsion bars for the pajero and thats the rockcrawler bars advertised in 4x4 Action Magazine every month, atleast they are the only ones I know of... they are around the $530 mark or something... if anything, they'll be alot thicker and more supportive giving you a better ride while giving you a bit of extra lift up the front
Tim
Tim
The photographer formerly known as Digital Still Photos...
now active as Capture the Dog Photography 📸
now active as Capture the Dog Photography 📸
Ironman suspension aust also does HD T/bars for the Paj
http://www.ironman4x4.com/mitsubishipajeroleaf83.html
http://www.ironman4x4.com/mitsubishipajeroleaf83.html
'98 4.5L GU ST Auto - lifted, 35's, re-geared, custom rock sliders,M winchbar, some custom parts & more to come.
V8 pajero comp truck
V8 pajero comp truck
re index your bars first mate before spending the $
heres how to
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic150 ... rsion+bars
heres how to
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic150 ... rsion+bars
mike_nofx wrote:Is "Athol" what people with a lisp call him??
RAY185 wrote:I think it's delightful! So does my wife Bill.
re-index re-index re-index
there is no need for new torsion bars
if you want you can bring your car over to my place and I'll charge you half the price of the new ones and in 40 mins you'll drive back out with 2 or 3 inches of lift
torsion bars only need replacing if they are broken, and that is a very rare occurance in the mitsis
there is no need for new torsion bars
if you want you can bring your car over to my place and I'll charge you half the price of the new ones and in 40 mins you'll drive back out with 2 or 3 inches of lift
torsion bars only need replacing if they are broken, and that is a very rare occurance in the mitsis
or he could do it himself for freexagtho wrote:re-index re-index re-index
there is no need for new torsion bars
if you want you can bring your car over to my place and I'll charge you half the price of the new ones and in 40 mins you'll drive back out with 2 or 3 inches of lift
torsion bars only need replacing if they are broken, and that is a very rare occurance in the mitsis
mike_nofx wrote:Is "Athol" what people with a lisp call him??
RAY185 wrote:I think it's delightful! So does my wife Bill.
I used to own a Triton, but now own a Terrano II, I was recently doing my torsion bars and thought about re-indexing them, but can't work out how turning the bar in the opposite direction to the direction it gets cranked can lift the car higher. So would someone please explain to me how this happens. I would think that unless the bar has different spring rates set into it then turning it would do nothing as the spring rate would remain the same no matter where you indexed it....does that make sense............also in general, do the splines at each end line up, or are they offest from each other slightly?
Thanks everyone.
Thanks everyone.
99 Nissan Terrano II TDi, 2" lift, 30's, UHF, Hellas, Bull Bar
hard to explain, but when reindexing them you now have more adjustment to play with, hence you can wind them up further and gain more lifttritontray wrote:I used to own a Triton, but now own a Terrano II, I was recently doing my torsion bars and thought about re-indexing them, but can't work out how turning the bar in the opposite direction to the direction it gets cranked can lift the car higher. So would someone please explain to me how this happens. I would think that unless the bar has different spring rates set into it then turning it would do nothing as the spring rate would remain the same no matter where you indexed it....does that make sense............also in general, do the splines at each end line up, or are they offest from each other slightly?
Thanks everyone.
mike_nofx wrote:Is "Athol" what people with a lisp call him??
RAY185 wrote:I think it's delightful! So does my wife Bill.
no because the adjuster is still attached to the bar, you would have just lowered the vehicle, then wound it back up again, reindex the bars 1 - 2 splines, this will cause the adjuster to be wound out the furtherest just to get them back in, thus giving u the entire length of the adjuster to wind the front end uptritontray wrote:Is it possible to just leave splines where they are at the front, but then start the torsion bar hanger at the rear of the bar pointing more towards the ground, then start winding it up?
btw trim the droop stops
mike_nofx wrote:Is "Athol" what people with a lisp call him??
RAY185 wrote:I think it's delightful! So does my wife Bill.
so is it a hard job to re-index? because it might be all I need to do to my paj... it sits very nose down.. despite having the bars wound right up.. ... the ass end is very high... makes the 30" tyres look very dismal..
Tim
Tim
The photographer formerly known as Digital Still Photos...
now active as Capture the Dog Photography 📸
now active as Capture the Dog Photography 📸
it depends, my drivers side bar came out no worries, yet been able to do it to my passangers sideDigitalStillPhotos wrote:so is it a hard job to re-index? because it might be all I need to do to my paj... it sits very nose down.. despite having the bars wound right up.. ... the ass end is very high... makes the 30" tyres look very dismal..
Tim
mike_nofx wrote:Is "Athol" what people with a lisp call him??
RAY185 wrote:I think it's delightful! So does my wife Bill.
I can't remember my Triton bars, but with my Terrano bars, when I took the bar out, the hanger came off. So why can't I just leave the bar where it is and then pull the hanger off, but set it pointing more to the ground.bakerboy wrote:no because the adjuster is still attached to the bar, you would have just lowered the vehicle, then wound it back up again, reindex the bars 1 - 2 splines, this will cause the adjuster to be wound out the furtherest just to get them back in, thus giving u the entire length of the adjuster to wind the front end uptritontray wrote:Is it possible to just leave splines where they are at the front, but then start the torsion bar hanger at the rear of the bar pointing more towards the ground, then start winding it up?
btw trim the droop stops
Thats what I meant above, sorry for the confusion.
99 Nissan Terrano II TDi, 2" lift, 30's, UHF, Hellas, Bull Bar
shouldnt do, just make sure you turn it the right waytritontray wrote:I can't remember my Triton bars, but with my Terrano bars, when I took the bar out, the hanger came off. So why can't I just leave the bar where it is and then pull the hanger off, but set it pointing more to the ground.bakerboy wrote:no because the adjuster is still attached to the bar, you would have just lowered the vehicle, then wound it back up again, reindex the bars 1 - 2 splines, this will cause the adjuster to be wound out the furtherest just to get them back in, thus giving u the entire length of the adjuster to wind the front end uptritontray wrote:Is it possible to just leave splines where they are at the front, but then start the torsion bar hanger at the rear of the bar pointing more towards the ground, then start winding it up?
btw trim the droop stops
Thats what I meant above, sorry for the confusion.
mike_nofx wrote:Is "Athol" what people with a lisp call him??
RAY185 wrote:I think it's delightful! So does my wife Bill.
the hanger is a totally separate part.
this being the case, can i do what i mentioned above, and just leave the bar where it is, and i guess 'index' the hanger instead making it point down towards the ground more before winding it up? this effectively should do the same as re-indexing bars where the hanger is part of the bar.
this being the case, can i do what i mentioned above, and just leave the bar where it is, and i guess 'index' the hanger instead making it point down towards the ground more before winding it up? this effectively should do the same as re-indexing bars where the hanger is part of the bar.
99 Nissan Terrano II TDi, 2" lift, 30's, UHF, Hellas, Bull Bar
You are getting closer. The torsion bar is basically a rod made of spring steel with splines at either end. The front of the bar slides into a stay on the lower control arm at the front and then a "hanger" at the rear. Completely undo the bolt and nut's (there's a lock nut as well) that tension the bar. Then Turn the "hanger" in the direction so it hangs lower. Ideally you want the hanger wound so the bolt and nut will just start to thread. Then tension it up until the desired ride height is achieved. What this is doing is effectively giving you more adjustment before the thread bottoms out.tritontray wrote:the hanger is a totally separate part.
this being the case, can i do what i mentioned above, and just leave the bar where it is, and i guess 'index' the hanger instead making it point down towards the ground more before winding it up? this effectively should do the same as re-indexing bars where the hanger is part of the bar.
you are right with your last post tritontray, same thing, as the spline is the same at either end and the rods are reversible... at least in the mitsis they are
when you actually perform the job you may find, like me, the front slips out easier than the rear hanger, and it gives you an extra handle to hold it with
the front of the bars is not actually bolted in, it is just sitting in on a spline, and when you remove the bolt holding the rear hanger the torsion bar is able to move rearward and slips out quite easily
don't be afraid guys, you'd be hard pressed to stuff it up, it is simply and literally a nut and a bolt scenario, and when you actually do it you'll be left wondering what all the fuss is about
when you actually perform the job you may find, like me, the front slips out easier than the rear hanger, and it gives you an extra handle to hold it with
the front of the bars is not actually bolted in, it is just sitting in on a spline, and when you remove the bolt holding the rear hanger the torsion bar is able to move rearward and slips out quite easily
don't be afraid guys, you'd be hard pressed to stuff it up, it is simply and literally a nut and a bolt scenario, and when you actually do it you'll be left wondering what all the fuss is about
Thanks all.
Definately not scared. They had already been wound up but I was struggling to understand why people were saying turn the whole bar, when the hanger is a separate part and I could just set it lower. So I was tryign to correlate the info between turning the whole bar or just a reposition of the hanger. Thanks all for your help.
Definately not scared. They had already been wound up but I was struggling to understand why people were saying turn the whole bar, when the hanger is a separate part and I could just set it lower. So I was tryign to correlate the info between turning the whole bar or just a reposition of the hanger. Thanks all for your help.
99 Nissan Terrano II TDi, 2" lift, 30's, UHF, Hellas, Bull Bar
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