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torsion bars

Tech Talk for Mitsubishi owners.

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torsion bars

Post by scott1482 »

hi all i have just fitted new suspension to my gen 1 paj (coils & shocks) then i tryed to wind up the torsion bars and nothing happened no change in hight is there a way of raising the front end without buying new torsion bars
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Post by DigitalStillPhotos »

I think your in the same problem as me, I've got a 40mm lift in my Gen 1 Pajero with longer shocks and all that, the torsion bars are wound up as far as they go, but the front still sits low, I think your best option is probably new bars... I know I'll be looking for a set in the future.. I only know of one brand that does torsion bars for the pajero and thats the rockcrawler bars advertised in 4x4 Action Magazine every month, atleast they are the only ones I know of... they are around the $530 mark or something... if anything, they'll be alot thicker and more supportive giving you a better ride while giving you a bit of extra lift up the front

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Post by OGJON »

Ironman suspension aust also does HD T/bars for the Paj

http://www.ironman4x4.com/mitsubishipajeroleaf83.html
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Post by bakerboy »

re index your bars first mate before spending the $

heres how to
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic150 ... rsion+bars
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Post by scott1482 »

i think i saw new torsion bars for around $350 but would rather that in my pocket.. also do torsion bars wear out with new shocks in the front end it hits bumps you get a good joult so could torsion bars couse this to happen sorry about the stupid questions but i dont know
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Post by xagtho »

re-index re-index re-index

there is no need for new torsion bars

if you want you can bring your car over to my place and I'll charge you half the price of the new ones and in 40 mins you'll drive back out with 2 or 3 inches of lift

torsion bars only need replacing if they are broken, and that is a very rare occurance in the mitsis
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Post by bakerboy »

xagtho wrote:re-index re-index re-index

there is no need for new torsion bars

if you want you can bring your car over to my place and I'll charge you half the price of the new ones and in 40 mins you'll drive back out with 2 or 3 inches of lift

torsion bars only need replacing if they are broken, and that is a very rare occurance in the mitsis
or he could do it himself for free :D :D
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Post by xagtho »

bakerboy wrote:or he could do it himself for free :D :D
that's exactly my point
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Post by Jonezy01 »

Which direction do i turn the bars ie clock wise or anti clockwise
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Post by xagtho »

they both go different ways, it is very easy to see when you remove them, from memory I think the left gets shifted anticlockwise and right clockwise when re-indexing.
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Post by scott1482 »

ok thanks i will give that a try and let you know how i go
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Post by xagtho »

you'll be right scott, it's not as daunting as it may seem
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Post by tritontray »

I used to own a Triton, but now own a Terrano II, I was recently doing my torsion bars and thought about re-indexing them, but can't work out how turning the bar in the opposite direction to the direction it gets cranked can lift the car higher. So would someone please explain to me how this happens. I would think that unless the bar has different spring rates set into it then turning it would do nothing as the spring rate would remain the same no matter where you indexed it....does that make sense............also in general, do the splines at each end line up, or are they offest from each other slightly?

Thanks everyone.
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Post by bakerboy »

tritontray wrote:I used to own a Triton, but now own a Terrano II, I was recently doing my torsion bars and thought about re-indexing them, but can't work out how turning the bar in the opposite direction to the direction it gets cranked can lift the car higher. So would someone please explain to me how this happens. I would think that unless the bar has different spring rates set into it then turning it would do nothing as the spring rate would remain the same no matter where you indexed it....does that make sense............also in general, do the splines at each end line up, or are they offest from each other slightly?

Thanks everyone.
hard to explain, but when reindexing them you now have more adjustment to play with, hence you can wind them up further and gain more lift
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Post by tritontray »

Is it possible to just leave splines where they are at the front, but then start the torsion bar hanger at the rear of the bar pointing more towards the ground, then start winding it up?
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Post by bakerboy »

tritontray wrote:Is it possible to just leave splines where they are at the front, but then start the torsion bar hanger at the rear of the bar pointing more towards the ground, then start winding it up?
no because the adjuster is still attached to the bar, you would have just lowered the vehicle, then wound it back up again, reindex the bars 1 - 2 splines, this will cause the adjuster to be wound out the furtherest just to get them back in, thus giving u the entire length of the adjuster to wind the front end up

btw trim the droop stops
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Post by DigitalStillPhotos »

so is it a hard job to re-index? because it might be all I need to do to my paj... it sits very nose down.. despite having the bars wound right up.. ... the ass end is very high... makes the 30" tyres look very dismal..

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Post by bakerboy »

DigitalStillPhotos wrote:so is it a hard job to re-index? because it might be all I need to do to my paj... it sits very nose down.. despite having the bars wound right up.. ... the ass end is very high... makes the 30" tyres look very dismal..

Tim
it depends, my drivers side bar came out no worries, yet been able to do it to my passangers side :?
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Post by tritontray »

bakerboy wrote:
tritontray wrote:Is it possible to just leave splines where they are at the front, but then start the torsion bar hanger at the rear of the bar pointing more towards the ground, then start winding it up?
no because the adjuster is still attached to the bar, you would have just lowered the vehicle, then wound it back up again, reindex the bars 1 - 2 splines, this will cause the adjuster to be wound out the furtherest just to get them back in, thus giving u the entire length of the adjuster to wind the front end up

btw trim the droop stops
I can't remember my Triton bars, but with my Terrano bars, when I took the bar out, the hanger came off. So why can't I just leave the bar where it is and then pull the hanger off, but set it pointing more to the ground.

Thats what I meant above, sorry for the confusion.
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Post by bakerboy »

tritontray wrote:
bakerboy wrote:
tritontray wrote:Is it possible to just leave splines where they are at the front, but then start the torsion bar hanger at the rear of the bar pointing more towards the ground, then start winding it up?
no because the adjuster is still attached to the bar, you would have just lowered the vehicle, then wound it back up again, reindex the bars 1 - 2 splines, this will cause the adjuster to be wound out the furtherest just to get them back in, thus giving u the entire length of the adjuster to wind the front end up

btw trim the droop stops
I can't remember my Triton bars, but with my Terrano bars, when I took the bar out, the hanger came off. So why can't I just leave the bar where it is and then pull the hanger off, but set it pointing more to the ground.

Thats what I meant above, sorry for the confusion.
shouldnt do, just make sure you turn it the right way
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Post by tritontray »

the hanger is a totally separate part.

this being the case, can i do what i mentioned above, and just leave the bar where it is, and i guess 'index' the hanger instead making it point down towards the ground more before winding it up? this effectively should do the same as re-indexing bars where the hanger is part of the bar.
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Post by hudson44 »

tritontray wrote:the hanger is a totally separate part.

this being the case, can i do what i mentioned above, and just leave the bar where it is, and i guess 'index' the hanger instead making it point down towards the ground more before winding it up? this effectively should do the same as re-indexing bars where the hanger is part of the bar.
You are getting closer. The torsion bar is basically a rod made of spring steel with splines at either end. The front of the bar slides into a stay on the lower control arm at the front and then a "hanger" at the rear. Completely undo the bolt and nut's (there's a lock nut as well) that tension the bar. Then Turn the "hanger" in the direction so it hangs lower. Ideally you want the hanger wound so the bolt and nut will just start to thread. Then tension it up until the desired ride height is achieved. What this is doing is effectively giving you more adjustment before the thread bottoms out.
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Post by xagtho »

you are right with your last post tritontray, same thing, as the spline is the same at either end and the rods are reversible... at least in the mitsis they are

when you actually perform the job you may find, like me, the front slips out easier than the rear hanger, and it gives you an extra handle to hold it with

the front of the bars is not actually bolted in, it is just sitting in on a spline, and when you remove the bolt holding the rear hanger the torsion bar is able to move rearward and slips out quite easily

don't be afraid guys, you'd be hard pressed to stuff it up, it is simply and literally a nut and a bolt scenario, and when you actually do it you'll be left wondering what all the fuss is about
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Post by tritontray »

Thanks all.

Definately not scared. They had already been wound up but I was struggling to understand why people were saying turn the whole bar, when the hanger is a separate part and I could just set it lower. So I was tryign to correlate the info between turning the whole bar or just a reposition of the hanger. Thanks all for your help.
99 Nissan Terrano II TDi, 2" lift, 30's, UHF, Hellas, Bull Bar
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