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bundy and 36's, but no lift?

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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bundy and 36's, but no lift?

Post by dr who? »

is it do-able?
i know i could just go crazy with the grinder but is it realistic?
mine suprise suprise feels too tall with 80 series springs in it and am wondering wether i should drop it and get some geometry back
what you reckon?
Cheers Hugh
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Post by hulsty »

Do able I reckon, with say a 2'' lift for bump travel. Fit higher offset wheels for stability.
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Post by dr who? »

allready got pretty high offset wheels, i'll ponder it a while more, its all that lower 40 in petersons thats got me thinking!
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Post by dumbdunce »

I think you'll have to go the other way with the wheels to reduce scrub radius, otherwise the tyres will rub badly on the rear of the front guards on turns. there are a million places the wheels will rub, I think you'll need at least 2" to get them in there. you can't really chop bundy guards, they are only supported by the inner guard, if you start chopping you'll find there's nothing left.
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Post by droopypete »

This is my bundera on 35's with no body lift and only modest springs, it is my road car and I would expect major rubbing if I was to flex it up.
Peter.
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Cable bracing is the way of the future!

v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
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Post by hulsty »

Any more pics? Is that a chopped middy roof?

Looks good
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Post by droopypete »

Your eye is keen grasshopper :)
it looks and fits like it was made for it, I made stagered cuts through the window opening, top front and bottom rear and it lined up perfect.
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!

v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
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Post by pozman »

love the over lapping glass

how'd you join them, i heard that frp tops dont like modification?
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Post by droopypete »

pozman wrote:love the over lapping glass

how'd you join them, i heard that frp tops dont like modification?
Very difficult to cut down toughened glass but the overlaps are a small compromise in an otherwise very pleasing modification.



It is quite straight forward, remove the windows and cut from the top forward corner of the window to the top forward corner of the other window along the back edge of the roll bar hump, with the waste on the roof side of the cut not the hump, then cut through the bottom of the window at the rear about 150mm in from the corner, shorten to fit and fibreglass it all up, easy :lol: .
The stagger of the cut is important for strength and cutting behind the rollbar hump is for alignment, because there is a cavity in the panel under the window I drilled a hole in the inside panel so I could get a fibreglass tag inside, then I patched the hole.
Peter.
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Cable bracing is the way of the future!

v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
Posts: 171
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Post by pozman »

nice, make it sound so easy, i have a hard top for mine buts a cheep one, and its noticeable lol
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Post by dumbdunce »

not sure if there is a factory FRP lid for soft top bundys but there are aftermarket jobs available.

anyway back to the topic at hand...
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
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Post by dr who? »

it takes my 36's well at the moment with the 80 series springs in and only rubs on the rear wheel arch when articulating, the front doesnt rub, maybe i allready have the best compromise of lift and tyres and height, i'l get the stauns put in them and get them put back on it and have a good flex and see whats going on
Cheers Hugh
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Post by dank »

bumpstops are probably the easiest way to fit big rubber. Just limit the uptravel by extending your bumpstops so that it won't rub.
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Post by beinthemud »

droopypete wrote:
pozman wrote:love the over lapping glass

how'd you join them, i heard that frp tops dont like modification?
Very difficult to cut down toughened glass but the overlaps are a small compromise in an otherwise very pleasing modification.



It is quite straight forward, remove the windows and cut from the top forward corner of the window to the top forward corner of the other window along the back edge of the roll bar hump, with the waste on the roof side of the cut not the hump, then cut through the bottom of the window at the rear about 150mm in from the corner, shorten to fit and fibreglass it all up, easy :lol: .
The stagger of the cut is important for strength and cutting behind the rollbar hump is for alignment, because there is a cavity in the panel under the window I drilled a hole in the inside panel so I could get a fibreglass tag inside, then I patched the hole.
Peter.
Image




what engine do you run
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Post by droopypete »

beinthemud wrote:
droopypete wrote:
pozman wrote:love the over lapping glass

how'd you join them, i heard that frp tops dont like modification?
Very difficult to cut down toughened glass but the overlaps are a small compromise in an otherwise very pleasing modification.



It is quite straight forward, remove the windows and cut from the top forward corner of the window to the top forward corner of the other window along the back edge of the roll bar hump, with the waste on the roof side of the cut not the hump, then cut through the bottom of the window at the rear about 150mm in from the corner, shorten to fit and fibreglass it all up, easy :lol: .
The stagger of the cut is important for strength and cutting behind the rollbar hump is for alignment, because there is a cavity in the panel under the window I drilled a hole in the inside panel so I could get a fibreglass tag inside, then I patched the hole.
Peter.
Image




what engine do you run
stock 22r, I am very happy with it, goes very well.
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!

v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
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