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bundy and 36's, but no lift?
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
bundy and 36's, but no lift?
is it do-able?
i know i could just go crazy with the grinder but is it realistic?
mine suprise suprise feels too tall with 80 series springs in it and am wondering wether i should drop it and get some geometry back
what you reckon?
Cheers Hugh
i know i could just go crazy with the grinder but is it realistic?
mine suprise suprise feels too tall with 80 series springs in it and am wondering wether i should drop it and get some geometry back
what you reckon?
Cheers Hugh
I think you'll have to go the other way with the wheels to reduce scrub radius, otherwise the tyres will rub badly on the rear of the front guards on turns. there are a million places the wheels will rub, I think you'll need at least 2" to get them in there. you can't really chop bundy guards, they are only supported by the inner guard, if you start chopping you'll find there's nothing left.
Free air locker to the first 20 callers!
Very difficult to cut down toughened glass but the overlaps are a small compromise in an otherwise very pleasing modification.pozman wrote:love the over lapping glass
how'd you join them, i heard that frp tops dont like modification?
It is quite straight forward, remove the windows and cut from the top forward corner of the window to the top forward corner of the other window along the back edge of the roll bar hump, with the waste on the roof side of the cut not the hump, then cut through the bottom of the window at the rear about 150mm in from the corner, shorten to fit and fibreglass it all up, easy .
The stagger of the cut is important for strength and cutting behind the rollbar hump is for alignment, because there is a cavity in the panel under the window I drilled a hole in the inside panel so I could get a fibreglass tag inside, then I patched the hole.
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!
v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
it takes my 36's well at the moment with the 80 series springs in and only rubs on the rear wheel arch when articulating, the front doesnt rub, maybe i allready have the best compromise of lift and tyres and height, i'l get the stauns put in them and get them put back on it and have a good flex and see whats going on
Cheers Hugh
Cheers Hugh
bumpstops are probably the easiest way to fit big rubber. Just limit the uptravel by extending your bumpstops so that it won't rub.
Work - KPD4X4.COM - KPD Industries Australian Distributor of Diesel Power Modules - Germany.
Play - dank's zook
Play - dank's zook
droopypete wrote:Very difficult to cut down toughened glass but the overlaps are a small compromise in an otherwise very pleasing modification.pozman wrote:love the over lapping glass
how'd you join them, i heard that frp tops dont like modification?
It is quite straight forward, remove the windows and cut from the top forward corner of the window to the top forward corner of the other window along the back edge of the roll bar hump, with the waste on the roof side of the cut not the hump, then cut through the bottom of the window at the rear about 150mm in from the corner, shorten to fit and fibreglass it all up, easy .
The stagger of the cut is important for strength and cutting behind the rollbar hump is for alignment, because there is a cavity in the panel under the window I drilled a hole in the inside panel so I could get a fibreglass tag inside, then I patched the hole.
Peter.
what engine do you run
Manuels= 4wd,cars,bikes,guns,trucks,race cars
Automatics=washing machines,dish washers,fridges
Automatics=washing machines,dish washers,fridges
stock 22r, I am very happy with it, goes very well.beinthemud wrote:droopypete wrote:Very difficult to cut down toughened glass but the overlaps are a small compromise in an otherwise very pleasing modification.pozman wrote:love the over lapping glass
how'd you join them, i heard that frp tops dont like modification?
It is quite straight forward, remove the windows and cut from the top forward corner of the window to the top forward corner of the other window along the back edge of the roll bar hump, with the waste on the roof side of the cut not the hump, then cut through the bottom of the window at the rear about 150mm in from the corner, shorten to fit and fibreglass it all up, easy .
The stagger of the cut is important for strength and cutting behind the rollbar hump is for alignment, because there is a cavity in the panel under the window I drilled a hole in the inside panel so I could get a fibreglass tag inside, then I patched the hole.
Peter.
what engine do you run
Peter.
Cable bracing is the way of the future!
v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
v840 said "That sounds like a booty fab, hack job piece of shit no offence."
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