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15x10's vs 8's with spaces

General Tech Talk

Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators

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All pros vs cons, which is the better setup?


15x8's @-28 offset, with 2" spaces
7
37%
15x10's @-44 offset, with no spaces
12
63%
 
Total votes: 19

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Joined: Thu Jun 26, 2003 9:48 am

15x10's vs 8's with spaces

Post by MQ080 »

Obviously i want track increased, what would be the best way to go?
Taking into account bagging for the 8's, pressure of the extra offset on the bearings and are tyres more easy to roll off rims on a 10 over 8 (no beadlocks)... there is not all that much diffrence in price between the two options.

BTW the tyres are 35/12.5's...
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Post by fatassgq »

The 8" ones will give your 35s a slightly better diameter as it sucks the side wall in. The 10's will give ya more width.
Probably marginal but I have seen quite a difference before. The 8's may give you a lot of sidewall bag when pressure is dropped?

I run 10's and have not had a problem but I think that it would logically be easier to roll a bead off on 10's than 8's.
If ya ever plan on going external beadlocks I would use 8's

I also run spacers but if I could get the same width with offset rims I would prefer it! Spacers can be a PITA when you are hot and muddy and you have to take em off. Even with a rattle gun it is just an extra thing ya have to do.
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Post by N*A*M »

i would get 8's, and have them flipped

less chance of rolling outside bead and you'll get the width
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Post by Shorty40 »

N*A*M wrote:i would get 8's, and have them flipped

less chance of rolling outside bead and you'll get the width


I agree :cool:

I run flipped 8s and they give me about 3 inches over a normal 8. No need to run spacers. (I have only about 1/2" BS)

Plus the benfits of better bagging at low PSI and having the inner bead on the outside (less chance of rolling a bead) ;)

Cost about $60 per rim :armsup:
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Post by MY45 »

Shorty40 wrote:
N*A*M wrote:i would get 8's, and have them flipped

less chance of rolling outside bead and you'll get the width


I agree :cool:

I run flipped 8s and they give me about 3 inches over a normal 8. No need to run spacers. (I have only about 1/2" BS)

Plus the benfits of better bagging at low PSI and having the inner bead on the outside (less chance of rolling a bead) ;)

Cost about $60 per rim :armsup:



Who did that for you ?
----HillBilly Engineering----
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Post by Adman »

I was gonna ask the same question.
I only recently found out that the wheel centres could be moved.
I'd be interested to know who can do it and the legallities (if any)

Adman
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Location: Melbourne

Re: 15x10's vs 8's with spaces

Post by *BESTY* »

MQ080 wrote:Obviously i want track increased, what would be the best way to go?...


GU diffs !!
[color=orange] BESTY [/color]




GU4800
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Location: Adelaide

Post by -Scott- »

Where to start?

Living in backwards Queensland, I believe spacers are automatically a no-no! Then there are the concentricity and balance issues, but we don't need to go there.

Next are the legalities of increasing the track of the vehicle - again, Queensland has unique ideas, so where you are is almost certainly different.

Increasing the track can have interesting effects on steering geometry (scrub radius) and the forces on wheel bearings and other suspension components (increases the effective length of the lever arm - this is probably not as critical on a live axle.) The steering issues can be countered with an increase in the tyre diameter, so the track increase may be beneficial.

Gotta agree the 8's reduce the risk of rolling the bead.

There goes another 2 cents...

Scott
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Post by Shorty40 »

MY45 wrote:
Shorty40 wrote:Cost about $60 per rim :armsup:


Who did that for you ?


Adman wrote:I was gonna ask the same question.


Mick did them or me before him and Gonads started M&M Custom. I imagine they would be around that price still (no guarentees :D ) as my brother got this done a little while ago for about the same price.

Either ring Mick or Matt from M&M or PM Mick on the board (Mickbj42) ;)
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Post by MQ080 »

Shorty40 wrote:
MY45 wrote:
Shorty40 wrote:Cost about $60 per rim :armsup:


Who did that for you ?


Adman wrote:I was gonna ask the same question.


Mick did them or me before him and Gonads started M&M Custom. I imagine they would be around that price still (no guarentees :D ) as my brother got this done a little while ago for about the same price.

Either ring Mick or Matt from M&M or PM Mick on the board (Mickbj42) ;)


How did they balance after that?
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Post by Shorty40 »

MQ080 wrote:How did they balance after that?


With the 35 BFGs they balanced perfect ;)

When I put the 38 TSLs on they were pretty bad, but that was the tyres. Lachlan at ORI balanced the TSLs. When I drove home you could not tell the difference between the radial 35s and the bias ply 38s :cool:

To this day I have not had a drama on or offroad with these rims.

And no one is going to complain about 6 inches extra width for around $240 all up :cool: :armsup:
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Post by M&M Custom Engineerin »

they balance up perfectly and run true

I have a set that i had on my zook for sale, they will go onto any 6 stud nissan, toyota etc.
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Post by hophoar »

mickbj42 wrote:they balance up perfectly and run true

I have a set that i had on my zook for sale, they will go onto any 6 stud nissan, toyota etc.


Mick,
What are the legalities of running such rims in NSW, are the engineerable.

John
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Post by M&M Custom Engineerin »

As far as i am aware there are no issues with running these rims other than covering the tyres with flares as they will stick out past the gaurds.
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Post by Josh_GQ »

i hate spacers!
i've got a set of 3 inch alloy wheel spacers and on the second time i used them one came loose, then next time i used them i did them up extra tight actually snapped an extion bit on the socket and then drove around for a while and checked them every 30 min or so and then just 10 min after i last checked them i hear bang crash smash and my car is leaning heavily to one side and then i see my wheel and hub go flying down the road, lucky it was a dirt road at cruiser park and not a steep hill or bitumen.
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