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When I start my Feroza it hesitates in the mornings then she goes ok after putting the foot down. Also Between 1000 to 3000 rpm it lacks power.
Its a new engine, new plugs, leads, air filter, fuel filter,02 sensor and the timing is set properlyand has genie extractors. Any suggestions would help me as its a mystery.
it could be your efi, when my engine was rebuilt my mechanic warned me to be aware of the fact the efi was old and that i could get some performance issues because of that
Thats what I was leaning towards - my dad recently bought a car with an odd miss, turns out the fuel filter was letting a lot of particles through and the result was the injectors were clogged with a fine dirt-like substance, one of them to the point of being 90% blocked which would cause missing at idle and low revs, but ran normal in the upper rev range.
At least injectors for the Charade/Applause are still available, so even if one is kaput you could find another set, but I'd get your current ones cleaned - they can get quite dirty.
OK its not a very smart system - but if you havn't pulled the ECU error codes then I think now might be a very good time.
ECU engine coolant sensor is a right pain to plug in ( can barely feel it let alone....... ) and could account for the problem BUT pull the codes THEN speculate.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
OK its not a very smart system - but if you havn't pulled the ECU error codes then I think now might be a very good time.
ECU engine coolant sensor is a right pain to plug in ( can barely feel it let alone....... ) and could account for the problem BUT pull the codes THEN speculate.
Its a pain to get to the sensor and its tucked in near the dizzy. The only real way to change it is to remove the dizzy. Has any one else had a problem with the coolant sensor?
The diagonostic codes are the ones done on a multi meter? I tested the o2 sensor and the coolant sensor and they worked. Which codes do you mean Mighty?
ON the passengers side firewall theres a green connector ( IIRC ) with a cap on it that gives you access to the computers diagnostic system / Lambda sensor / fuel pump signal......
By shorting one of the terminals to ground and then turning on the ignition the MIL light on the dash will blink out error codes - telling you whats wrong... if anything.
Go to WARFS.ORG and download the F300 Manual for the EFI system ( actually get the lot... why not ? its free ) it will tell you what and how, and its a good thing to know anyway.
IIRC the connector is shown the wrong way around in the diagram or was unclear so I checked the wiring colors to be certain.
Its been awhile now so i'm a bit vague ( or more vague than usual... )
THis may not be your problem, but IMO its a great place to start that costs nothing and eliminates the obvious EFI/Computer issues.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
I'd be checking the vaccum advance lines are connected correctly between the inlet manifold/ throttle body and the two vacuum advance "servos" on the distributor. Also check the timing was set at the correct revs and with the vacuum advance disconnected.
PS: You should be able to see the change in advance (using a timing light) when you disconnect the line as well. That will help confirm that the distributor mechanism is sort of working.
Yep Murcods idea is well worth doing - good suggestion.
in fact in some earlier thread I commented that the internal ball race that the vacuum advance runs on in the dissy has a nasty habit of getting stiff / or binding up due to the grease used in it going hard.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Yeah found all the details to do the tests. It came out to have 11 lights indicating either air condition problem or the throttle position sensor. Ill try to replace the throttle sensor at let you know how it goes
Yes ill post a pic of the terminals to short as the direction in the manual is incorrect. Once you learn how to do a self diagnostic test you will save time and money