Its a new engine, new plugs, leads, air filter, fuel filter,02 sensor and the timing is set properlyand has genie extractors. Any suggestions would help me as its a mystery.
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Cold Starts and low revs
Moderator: Tiny
Cold Starts and low revs
When I start my Feroza it hesitates in the mornings then she goes ok after putting the foot down. Also Between 1000 to 3000 rpm it lacks power.
Its a new engine, new plugs, leads, air filter, fuel filter,02 sensor and the timing is set properlyand has genie extractors. Any suggestions would help me as its a mystery.
Its a new engine, new plugs, leads, air filter, fuel filter,02 sensor and the timing is set properlyand has genie extractors. Any suggestions would help me as its a mystery.
Thats what I was leaning towards - my dad recently bought a car with an odd miss, turns out the fuel filter was letting a lot of particles through and the result was the injectors were clogged with a fine dirt-like substance, one of them to the point of being 90% blocked which would cause missing at idle and low revs, but ran normal in the upper rev range.
At least injectors for the Charade/Applause are still available, so even if one is kaput you could find another set, but I'd get your current ones cleaned - they can get quite dirty.
At least injectors for the Charade/Applause are still available, so even if one is kaput you could find another set, but I'd get your current ones cleaned - they can get quite dirty.
And the diagnostics say ?????
OK its not a very smart system - but if you havn't pulled the ECU error codes then I think now might be a very good time.
ECU engine coolant sensor is a right pain to plug in ( can barely feel it let alone....... ) and could account for the problem BUT pull the codes THEN speculate.
OK its not a very smart system - but if you havn't pulled the ECU error codes then I think now might be a very good time.
ECU engine coolant sensor is a right pain to plug in ( can barely feel it let alone....... ) and could account for the problem BUT pull the codes THEN speculate.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Its a pain to get to the sensor and its tucked in near the dizzy. The only real way to change it is to remove the dizzy. Has any one else had a problem with the coolant sensor?MightyMouse wrote:And the diagnostics say ?????
OK its not a very smart system - but if you havn't pulled the ECU error codes then I think now might be a very good time.
ECU engine coolant sensor is a right pain to plug in ( can barely feel it let alone....... ) and could account for the problem BUT pull the codes THEN speculate.
ON the passengers side firewall theres a green connector ( IIRC ) with a cap on it that gives you access to the computers diagnostic system / Lambda sensor / fuel pump signal......
By shorting one of the terminals to ground and then turning on the ignition the MIL light on the dash will blink out error codes - telling you whats wrong... if anything.
Go to WARFS.ORG and download the F300 Manual for the EFI system ( actually get the lot... why not ? its free ) it will tell you what and how, and its a good thing to know anyway.
IIRC the connector is shown the wrong way around in the diagram or was unclear so I checked the wiring colors to be certain.
Its been awhile now so i'm a bit vague ( or more vague than usual... )
THis may not be your problem, but IMO its a great place to start that costs nothing and eliminates the obvious EFI/Computer issues.
By shorting one of the terminals to ground and then turning on the ignition the MIL light on the dash will blink out error codes - telling you whats wrong... if anything.
Go to WARFS.ORG and download the F300 Manual for the EFI system ( actually get the lot... why not ? its free ) it will tell you what and how, and its a good thing to know anyway.
IIRC the connector is shown the wrong way around in the diagram or was unclear so I checked the wiring colors to be certain.
Its been awhile now so i'm a bit vague ( or more vague than usual... )
THis may not be your problem, but IMO its a great place to start that costs nothing and eliminates the obvious EFI/Computer issues.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
I'd be checking the vaccum advance lines are connected correctly between the inlet manifold/ throttle body and the two vacuum advance "servos" on the distributor. Also check the timing was set at the correct revs and with the vacuum advance disconnected.
PS: You should be able to see the change in advance (using a timing light) when you disconnect the line as well. That will help confirm that the distributor mechanism is sort of working.
PS: You should be able to see the change in advance (using a timing light) when you disconnect the line as well. That will help confirm that the distributor mechanism is sort of working.
David
Yep Murcods idea is well worth doing - good suggestion.
in fact in some earlier thread I commented that the internal ball race that the vacuum advance runs on in the dissy has a nasty habit of getting stiff / or binding up due to the grease used in it going hard.
in fact in some earlier thread I commented that the internal ball race that the vacuum advance runs on in the dissy has a nasty habit of getting stiff / or binding up due to the grease used in it going hard.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
TPS is a common failure item -switch arms that sense the idle position deform - its simply a crap design.
I've used a bosch unit on mine - it has propper microswitches but don't ask which one - i've forgotten ages ago
Was an article on WARFS and maybee posts here.
I've used a bosch unit on mine - it has propper microswitches but don't ask which one - i've forgotten ages ago
Was an article on WARFS and maybee posts here.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
Glad it worked out for you - as I said its not uncommon.
Don't try and repair the switch - I did, and if you get the operation of the internals slightly out of wack it does all maneer of strange things
Some applauses use the same switch but just check as others arere differnt electrically - but MAY be able to be adapted.
Perhaps post EXACTLY which pin gets shorted to ground ( ( middle / front ?) in the diag connector.
Don't try and repair the switch - I did, and if you get the operation of the internals slightly out of wack it does all maneer of strange things
Some applauses use the same switch but just check as others arere differnt electrically - but MAY be able to be adapted.
Perhaps post EXACTLY which pin gets shorted to ground ( ( middle / front ?) in the diag connector.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
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