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Best way of clearing 37's on an 80?

Tech Talk for Cruiser owners.

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Best way of clearing 37's on an 80?

Post by 4runner2.8 »

Hey guys im looking for the best way to clear 37's on an 80 series, at the moment it has 3" long travel kit in it with 12" travel shocks.

Will lowering the bump stops 2" be enough, or should i just body lift it?
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Post by Roctoy »

4" kit and 2" wheel spacers clears 37's on my mates 80
Outers & Arms up stickers coming soon you hungry bitches!

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Post by GO79 »

6" spring lift clears on a mates 80
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Post by ledgend80 »

i think you need to talk with assain offroad think he is running 37
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Post by Trusa »

35's with a 3 inch lift foul on my front inner guards and tore the rear bumper off and foul on the metal of the guard at the rear. how are you guys clearing big tyres without cutting guards?
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Post by Z()LTAN »

Trusa wrote:35's with a 3 inch lift foul on my front inner guards and tore the rear bumper off and foul on the metal of the guard at the rear. how are you guys clearing big tyres without cutting guards?
Because they dont wheel as hard as you it would seem

I find it funny when people say "yeah i fit 37's with a 4-6" lift no worries!"
Yeah im sure they fit, if your only going to the shopping center or pikin the kids up from practice.

My 37's hit and im sporting a 13" lift....
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Post by 4runner2.8 »

Thats why i asked the question, no sring lift is going to clear them if the bump stops are still origional, because in theory it can still go back to where it was if it had no spring lift. unless the shocks are acting as bump stops.

Iv done a bit of reading, in the US it looks like they lower the bump stops and space the radiouse arms forward a bit. and get the hammer out on a couple of places.

Ill try that 1st as its relativly cheap, if there is still issues ill body lift it. but that means new barwork.
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Post by Z()LTAN »

personally i think limiting flex is pointless...

Unless your jumping it..
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Post by rocklux »

imo, limiting flex a bit is not pointless if it allows you to fit bigger tyres. the advantages of bigger tyres is worth it. on mine if we didnt extend the bump stops it would have flexed right to the bonnet.
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Post by RUFF »

Z()LTAN wrote:personally i think limiting flex is pointless...

Unless your jumping it..
I think lifting a 4wd 13 inches to fit 37s is ridiculous...


Unless you want everyone to think your a wanker... :roll:
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Post by Z()LTAN »

RUFF wrote:
Z()LTAN wrote:personally i think limiting flex is pointless...

Unless your jumping it..
I think lifting a 4wd 13 inches to fit 37s is ridiculous...


Unless you want everyone to think your a wanker... :roll:
Meh think what you want its just a springover
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Post by rocklux »

doesnt a spring over only give you 6'' over standard? wheres the other 7'' come from?
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Post by Z()LTAN »

6-7 for springover, 1-2 for springs, 2ish for longer shackles then 37's

12-13"
Last edited by Z()LTAN on Sun Nov 08, 2009 11:18 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by thrashlux »

Z()LTAN wrote:personally i think limiting flex is pointless...
thats why i just cut more and more off the body

not everyone is that brave

other option is the body lift as this will keep suspension geometry closer to standard and not limit flex so much
with a 3 inch spring and 2 inch body lift it would drive better than a 5 or six inch spring lift
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Post by Z()LTAN »

thrashlux wrote: a 3 inch spring and 2 inch body lift it would drive better than a 5 or six inch spring lift
Exactly
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Post by rocklux »

so you have bout 8'' of lift. dont count the tyres mate. ;)
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Post by Z()LTAN »

rocklux wrote:so you have bout 8'' of lift. dont count the tyres mate. ;)
When i talk lift i talk roof height.

So tyres count
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Post by Slunnie »

Z()LTAN wrote:personally i think limiting flex is pointless...

Unless your jumping it..
Setup for long travel suspension with longer shocks than standard and have the bumpstops extended to suit new closed length on the shocks. That gives you extended bumpstops while increasing the flex - its a coiler, not leaves.
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Post by thrashlux »

Slunnie wrote:
Z()LTAN wrote:personally i think limiting flex is pointless...

Unless your jumping it..
Setup for long travel suspension with longer shocks than standard and have the bumpstops extended to suit new closed length on the shocks. That gives you extended bumpstops while increasing the flex - its a coiler, not leaves.
this is true but even better is to raise your standard shock mounts so u lose no up travel
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Post by Slunnie »

thrashlux wrote:
Slunnie wrote:
Z()LTAN wrote:personally i think limiting flex is pointless...

Unless your jumping it..
Setup for long travel suspension with longer shocks than standard and have the bumpstops extended to suit new closed length on the shocks. That gives you extended bumpstops while increasing the flex - its a coiler, not leaves.
this is true but even better is to raise your standard shock mounts so u lose no up travel
Without a doubt if the tyres will clear.
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Post by crankycruiser »

37's clear on an 80, 2" spring and 2" body lift..... just trim a bit on the rear of the front guards. or push the front diff housing forward 25mm.....


they clear on mine.......I only trimmed a little out of the rear guards lol


2" body and id say bout an inch of spring
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Post by BJ73 »

On my 80 with 2" body lift, sagged 5" suspension, cut front guards, rear flares removed and 17x9 beadlocks with 37 treps I still get rubbing front and rear, although it is tolerable

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Post by Barno111 »

doesnt look like you would get much flex out of it though! I think sticking to smaller tyres and having better articulation, Is better then have The biggest trye possible stuck under there and have no articulation at all!
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Post by duck »

dan i had no issue on mine with 3" spring and 2" body and 36s, when you get ya tires bolt them to mine and see if it will clear, then you know you will only have to body lift it
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Post by bad_religion_au »

4runner2.8 wrote:Thats why i asked the question, no sring lift is going to clear them if the bump stops are still origional, because in theory it can still go back to where it was if it had no spring lift. unless the shocks are acting as bump stops.

Iv done a bit of reading, in the US it looks like they lower the bump stops and space the radiouse arms forward a bit. and get the hammer out on a couple of places.

Ill try that 1st as its relativly cheap, if there is still issues ill body lift it. but that means new barwork.
why not get the hammer out, space the radius arms and lower the bumpstops on standard height springs and run the 37's on something resembling a stable offroader?
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Post by Auto-Craft »

To clear the 37's, you will need to move the diff forward 12mm, and use a large rubber mallet to tuck the top edge of the inner fender in, as well as run at least 40mm bump spacers, 50mm would be ideal, or 40mm and a 10mm body lift to use the existing bolts and gain a little more clearance.

Depending on the bullbar and rear bar you have, you may need to trim those as well.

ROOBY, with the bar and bullbar designed for 37's, and 40mm bump stop spacers, was just touching the dirt on the bumpers and the inner fenders around the very outside while we were jumping it up to half a metre off the ground during last weeks photo shoot with new 37's and std offset 17 x 8.5" rims.

With the 40mm bump stop spacers, and new longer sway bar mounts from our slinky long travel kit, we also use 12"stroke shocks, and 100mm longer free height coils for the 3"lift, so we end up with 1/3 up travel and 2/3 down travel, as any higher makes them not as nice to drive. We also set them up on larger tyres to run 1 degree neg camber, to aid turn in and help prevent wearing the outer edge of the LHF tyre.

This set up is without modifying shock mounts, but we do make a new rear bolt in plate to convert the long travel shock to a eye, to prevent side loading on the shaft with all the extra travel.

If you do any touring, you will always get to the bump stop, so if they bottom the shocks before the bumpstops, damaged shocks, coming right up!

They also absorb the load the shock mounts arent designed to take, when it bottoms the shock.
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Post by GO79 »

crankycruiser wrote:37's clear on an 80, 2" spring and 2" body lift..... just trim a bit on the rear of the front guards. or push the front diff housing forward 25mm.....


they clear on mine.......I only trimmed a little out of the rear guards lol


2" body and id say bout an inch of spring
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Post by jsttry »

aftermarket "sahara style" lights
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Post by Toyole »

The Green Diesel Animal, A 1995 24v, med 3,5 "OME, og 37x12, 5x17 ProComp, mye fendercutting og store fenderflears fra Icland.
[Img] http://nlck.no/forum/download/file.php?id=21199 [/ img]

Flere pic: http://nlck.no/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37 ... &start=300
[url] http://nlck.no/forum/download/file.php?id=21201 [/ url]
Last edited by Toyole on Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:03 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Post by RUFF »

Z()LTAN wrote:
RUFF wrote:
Z()LTAN wrote:personally i think limiting flex is pointless...

Unless your jumping it..
I think lifting a 4wd 13 inches to fit 37s is ridiculous...


Unless you want everyone to think your a wanker... :roll:
Meh think what you want its just a springover
:finger:
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