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Best way of clearing 37's on an 80?
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Best way of clearing 37's on an 80?
Hey guys im looking for the best way to clear 37's on an 80 series, at the moment it has 3" long travel kit in it with 12" travel shocks.
Will lowering the bump stops 2" be enough, or should i just body lift it?
Will lowering the bump stops 2" be enough, or should i just body lift it?
4" kit and 2" wheel spacers clears 37's on my mates 80
Outers & Arms up stickers coming soon you hungry bitches!
http://www.myultimate4wd.com
http://www.myultimate4wd.com
GRIMACE wrote:How I miss the days of care free wheelin with the crews!
Because they dont wheel as hard as you it would seemTrusa wrote:35's with a 3 inch lift foul on my front inner guards and tore the rear bumper off and foul on the metal of the guard at the rear. how are you guys clearing big tyres without cutting guards?
I find it funny when people say "yeah i fit 37's with a 4-6" lift no worries!"
Yeah im sure they fit, if your only going to the shopping center or pikin the kids up from practice.
My 37's hit and im sporting a 13" lift....
Locktup4x4.com.au - For all of your hardcore gear
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Thats why i asked the question, no sring lift is going to clear them if the bump stops are still origional, because in theory it can still go back to where it was if it had no spring lift. unless the shocks are acting as bump stops.
Iv done a bit of reading, in the US it looks like they lower the bump stops and space the radiouse arms forward a bit. and get the hammer out on a couple of places.
Ill try that 1st as its relativly cheap, if there is still issues ill body lift it. but that means new barwork.
Iv done a bit of reading, in the US it looks like they lower the bump stops and space the radiouse arms forward a bit. and get the hammer out on a couple of places.
Ill try that 1st as its relativly cheap, if there is still issues ill body lift it. but that means new barwork.
imo, limiting flex a bit is not pointless if it allows you to fit bigger tyres. the advantages of bigger tyres is worth it. on mine if we didnt extend the bump stops it would have flexed right to the bonnet.
94 twin cab hilux, 3'' spring, 2'' body, 37'' sticky treps, front & rear air lockers, rockhopper gears.
sponsored by max employment victoria point
sponsored by max employment victoria point
Meh think what you want its just a springoverRUFF wrote:I think lifting a 4wd 13 inches to fit 37s is ridiculous...Z()LTAN wrote:personally i think limiting flex is pointless...
Unless your jumping it..
Unless you want everyone to think your a wanker...
Locktup4x4.com.au - For all of your hardcore gear
Outlaws4x4.com
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thats why i just cut more and more off the bodyZ()LTAN wrote:personally i think limiting flex is pointless...
not everyone is that brave
other option is the body lift as this will keep suspension geometry closer to standard and not limit flex so much
with a 3 inch spring and 2 inch body lift it would drive better than a 5 or six inch spring lift
80 series 1980 hilux cab supra twin turbo engine
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
Setup for long travel suspension with longer shocks than standard and have the bumpstops extended to suit new closed length on the shocks. That gives you extended bumpstops while increasing the flex - its a coiler, not leaves.Z()LTAN wrote:personally i think limiting flex is pointless...
Unless your jumping it..
Cheers
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
this is true but even better is to raise your standard shock mounts so u lose no up travelSlunnie wrote:Setup for long travel suspension with longer shocks than standard and have the bumpstops extended to suit new closed length on the shocks. That gives you extended bumpstops while increasing the flex - its a coiler, not leaves.Z()LTAN wrote:personally i think limiting flex is pointless...
Unless your jumping it..
80 series 1980 hilux cab supra twin turbo engine
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
1hdfte 80 series
LHD fz 80 series GX
Without a doubt if the tyres will clear.thrashlux wrote:this is true but even better is to raise your standard shock mounts so u lose no up travelSlunnie wrote:Setup for long travel suspension with longer shocks than standard and have the bumpstops extended to suit new closed length on the shocks. That gives you extended bumpstops while increasing the flex - its a coiler, not leaves.Z()LTAN wrote:personally i think limiting flex is pointless...
Unless your jumping it..
Cheers
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
doesnt look like you would get much flex out of it though! I think sticking to smaller tyres and having better articulation, Is better then have The biggest trye possible stuck under there and have no articulation at all!
1996 HZJ75RP, DTS turbo with 3inch exhaust, rear locker, MTZs, 2inch shackles, 2 inch custom packs!
why not get the hammer out, space the radius arms and lower the bumpstops on standard height springs and run the 37's on something resembling a stable offroader?4runner2.8 wrote:Thats why i asked the question, no sring lift is going to clear them if the bump stops are still origional, because in theory it can still go back to where it was if it had no spring lift. unless the shocks are acting as bump stops.
Iv done a bit of reading, in the US it looks like they lower the bump stops and space the radiouse arms forward a bit. and get the hammer out on a couple of places.
Ill try that 1st as its relativly cheap, if there is still issues ill body lift it. but that means new barwork.
Spit my last breath
To clear the 37's, you will need to move the diff forward 12mm, and use a large rubber mallet to tuck the top edge of the inner fender in, as well as run at least 40mm bump spacers, 50mm would be ideal, or 40mm and a 10mm body lift to use the existing bolts and gain a little more clearance.
Depending on the bullbar and rear bar you have, you may need to trim those as well.
ROOBY, with the bar and bullbar designed for 37's, and 40mm bump stop spacers, was just touching the dirt on the bumpers and the inner fenders around the very outside while we were jumping it up to half a metre off the ground during last weeks photo shoot with new 37's and std offset 17 x 8.5" rims.
With the 40mm bump stop spacers, and new longer sway bar mounts from our slinky long travel kit, we also use 12"stroke shocks, and 100mm longer free height coils for the 3"lift, so we end up with 1/3 up travel and 2/3 down travel, as any higher makes them not as nice to drive. We also set them up on larger tyres to run 1 degree neg camber, to aid turn in and help prevent wearing the outer edge of the LHF tyre.
This set up is without modifying shock mounts, but we do make a new rear bolt in plate to convert the long travel shock to a eye, to prevent side loading on the shaft with all the extra travel.
If you do any touring, you will always get to the bump stop, so if they bottom the shocks before the bumpstops, damaged shocks, coming right up!
They also absorb the load the shock mounts arent designed to take, when it bottoms the shock.
Depending on the bullbar and rear bar you have, you may need to trim those as well.
ROOBY, with the bar and bullbar designed for 37's, and 40mm bump stop spacers, was just touching the dirt on the bumpers and the inner fenders around the very outside while we were jumping it up to half a metre off the ground during last weeks photo shoot with new 37's and std offset 17 x 8.5" rims.
With the 40mm bump stop spacers, and new longer sway bar mounts from our slinky long travel kit, we also use 12"stroke shocks, and 100mm longer free height coils for the 3"lift, so we end up with 1/3 up travel and 2/3 down travel, as any higher makes them not as nice to drive. We also set them up on larger tyres to run 1 degree neg camber, to aid turn in and help prevent wearing the outer edge of the LHF tyre.
This set up is without modifying shock mounts, but we do make a new rear bolt in plate to convert the long travel shock to a eye, to prevent side loading on the shaft with all the extra travel.
If you do any touring, you will always get to the bump stop, so if they bottom the shocks before the bumpstops, damaged shocks, coming right up!
They also absorb the load the shock mounts arent designed to take, when it bottoms the shock.
Supercharged 80 SOLD - "OPERATION SANDY" now in effect.
Nice rig mate i see you have the sahara headlights or was it a sahra be for you gave it the chop chopcrankycruiser wrote:37's clear on an 80, 2" spring and 2" body lift..... just trim a bit on the rear of the front guards. or push the front diff housing forward 25mm.....
they clear on mine.......I only trimmed a little out of the rear guards lol
2" body and id say bout an inch of spring
The Green Diesel Animal, A 1995 24v, med 3,5 "OME, og 37x12, 5x17 ProComp, mye fendercutting og store fenderflears fra Icland.
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Last edited by Toyole on Tue Nov 10, 2009 6:03 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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