Landcruiser vs Patrol

[rowenb]

Hey Blinky,

FYI -

Just picked this up for less than $20K (30 000km, dual bat etc etc, its basically new) and im more than happy with it.

I can pass on the details of the yard in WA if you would like. there are still a few there (i think), a mate and i bought one each, both in perfect condition with almost no use. Mine was a clean as the day it rolled out the factory door. It might not be up your alley, but i couldnt go wrong for the price.

The owner must have died not long after buying it. I've never seen one for sale under 200k and most have over 300k of that age.

[GO79]

You don't see to many 75,79 comp trucks around.Do you?
Buy the PATROL it so much better off road.
And cheaper and stonger.

You dont see to many pootrolls being used as mine vehicles either do you....

[Towie]

You don't see to many 75,79 comp trucks around.Do you?
Buy the PATROL it so much better off road.
And cheaper and stonger.

You dont see to many pootrolls being used as mine vehicles either do you....

they rattle apart & the arse falls off best to use something you dont have to fix everyday.. rough n tough thats what we love about em with a certain touch of quality & class

[mhanger]

HAHAHAHA

this thread is a crack up! Loving it......

[gu town]

You don't see to many 75,79 comp trucks around.Do you?
Buy the PATROL it so much better off road.
And cheaper and stonger.

You dont see to many pootrolls being used as mine vehicles either do you....

do you want to go mining or four wheelin? patrol all the way.

[GO79]

You don't see to many 75,79 comp trucks around.Do you?
Buy the PATROL it so much better off road.
And cheaper and stonger.

You dont see to many pootrolls being used as mine vehicles either do you....

do you want to go mining or four wheelin? patrol all the way.

Do you want a unliced comp truck pootrol
or do you want a DD that is more than capable off road with in reason and to be still lic
I drive cruisers U/G and they get put through hell and locked in 4x4 24/7 and only get shut of in between shift change, the only prbs i normally see is corrosion to bits and pices from the salty U/G water which would damage and vehicle
So if you want tough..... Cruiser ,,, its that simple

[Towie]

gold i love how we shit can each others brand.. i had a patrol which could not handle what i do therefore i got a cruiser & now i can do anything i like with it & it loves it

[GO79]

seen this on another forum
I cant picture a 3ltr poo troll doing the same and u cant even option for factory lockers with nissan

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wk6KJXeOM0k

[Towie]

Too good i love the Gal boys & ive been through all those areas & i would not take a caravan they are lunatics.... gota love that V8....
When is nissan gona bring one out or at least an updated engine

[gu town]

gold i love how we shit can each others brand.. i had a patrol which could not handle what i do therefore i got a cruiser & now i can do anything i like with it & it loves it

something like what you have in your signature towie is about the only vehicle i'd trade my patrol for. even then i'd want patrol diffs under it!

[Towie]

Mate you've done some work on that trol of yours i bet she boogies along now... even with those monster tyres...

Yeh i only changed because i was towing over 3 tonne & trol cannot legally & was carrying up to 1 tonne & a coil cant do that either so that how i ended up where i am but i miss the room & comfort of my trol sometimes..
Not when its wet and soft but when its dry & rough leafs are hard..

Now i do still tow but not far & only carry half a tonne or there abouts but that motor is so good & i prefer the slimmer look of the tojo but the look does not help off road really excep vision the trol has that monster bonet.

[Blinky900]

Hey all just a quick update, i havn't brought anything yet i put the searching on hold i went over too Thailand for a month just after my last post and just got back so the hunt resumes thanks for all your posts with ideas and opinions it's given me a few thoughts too work on, When i was in Thailand i drove a factory v8 hilux for a day and god dam what a weapon, why don't we get that stuff here i wouldn't buy another hilux again but if you could get the factory v8 here that would be bloody tempting but something funny during the whole month i went all over the country and i didn't see one troll anywhere maybe thats saying something for Nissan's.....LOL

[bad_religion_au]

gold i love how we shit can each others brand.. i had a patrol which could not handle what i do therefore i got a cruiser & now i can do anything i like with it & it loves it

something like what you have in your signature towie is about the only vehicle i'd trade my patrol for. even then i'd want patrol diffs under it!

why???

can get the 80/105 diffs stronger than GU's ever will be

[SimonInAustralia]

something like what you have in your signature towie is about the only vehicle i'd trade my patrol for. even then i'd want patrol diffs under it!

why???

can get the 80/105 diffs stronger than GU's ever will be

Please explain?

[Towie]

Yeh i dont understand re-80 105 diffs..

i did have a bit of a look into putting a trol diff in my ute but then i decided to lock both ends which solves the problem...

[bad_religion_au]

something like what you have in your signature towie is about the only vehicle i'd trade my patrol for. even then i'd want patrol diffs under it!

why???

can get the 80/105 diffs stronger than GU's ever will be

Please explain?

Longfield CV's are heaps stronger than any CV available for the nissans. nissan stuff necks down far too much to fit through the spindle, not to mention the market isn't there like it is for toyota stuff in yank land..

the front high pinion issues are solveable, making it strong enough to beat on more than 99% of people on here would.

[SimonInAustralia]

can get the 80/105 diffs stronger than GU's ever will be

Please explain?

Longfield CV's are heaps stronger than any CV available for the nissans. nissan stuff necks down far too much to fit through the spindle, not to mention the market isn't there like it is for toyota stuff in yank land..

the front high pinion issues are solveable, making it strong enough to beat on more than 99% of people on here would.

Thanks for the info, just want to know wht the best options are for my 78 series diffs, which I think are the same as the 80/105.

I do plan to go for custom full 30 spline longfields when I can afford it.

What are the solutions to the high pinion front?

I have a Harrop/Eaton ELocker in there, plan to go longfileds and longfield cryo treated rings and pinions.

I have read about putting Nissan centres into the Toyota diffs, do I need to go that far, and is there anything else I can do to strengthen the Toyota diffs instead?

Thanks.

[bad_religion_au]

can get the 80/105 diffs stronger than GU's ever will be

Please explain?

Longfield CV's are heaps stronger than any CV available for the nissans. nissan stuff necks down far too much to fit through the spindle, not to mention the market isn't there like it is for toyota stuff in yank land..

the front high pinion issues are solveable, making it strong enough to beat on more than 99% of people on here would.

Thanks for the info, just want to know wht the best options are for my 78 series diffs, which I think are the same as the 80/105.

I do plan to go for custom full 30 spline longfields when I can afford it.

What are the solutions to the high pinion front?

I have a Harrop/Eaton ELocker in there, plan to go longfileds and longfield cryo treated rings and pinions.

I have read about putting Nissan centres into the Toyota diffs, do I need to go that far, and is there anything else I can do to strengthen the Toyota diffs instead?

Thanks.

from my research (limited) but cryo ring and pinion, upgrading the carrier studs, a full replacement carrier that is stronger than stock (i.e. ARB or Detroit locker. dunno about the eaton). should be sufficient. the idea is limit the flex the ring gear can achieve. it also helps to remember not to snatch in reverse...

i know a guy that comp'd his 80 diffs on 36's and all he'd done was ARB locker. never broke any diffs.

[chunderlicious]

can get the 80/105 diffs stronger than GU's ever will be

Please explain?

Longfield CV's are heaps stronger than any CV available for the nissans. nissan stuff necks down far too much to fit through the spindle, not to mention the market isn't there like it is for toyota stuff in yank land..

the front high pinion issues are solveable, making it strong enough to beat on more than 99% of people on here would.

Thanks for the info, just want to know wht the best options are for my 78 series diffs, which I think are the same as the 80/105.

I do plan to go for custom full 30 spline longfields when I can afford it.

What are the solutions to the high pinion front?

I have a Harrop/Eaton ELocker in there, plan to go longfileds and longfield cryo treated rings and pinions.

I have read about putting Nissan centres into the Toyota diffs, do I need to go that far, and is there anything else I can do to strengthen the Toyota diffs instead?

Thanks.

from my research (limited) but cryo ring and pinion, upgrading the carrier studs, a full replacement carrier that is stronger than stock (i.e. ARB or Detroit locker. dunno about the eaton). should be sufficient. the idea is limit the flex the ring gear can achieve. it also helps to remember not to snatch in reverse...

i know a guy that comp'd his 80 diffs on 36's and all he'd done was ARB locker. never broke any diffs.

then again i gave my GQ absolute hell on 37 boggers twin locked and didnt even having clicking CVs. i launched the car in the air and landed full noise doing a vertical climb with the locker in... just kept going.

i also watched as a guy with a brand new diff with air locker in his 80 series grenaded his diff doing a fairly simple climb that i did unlocked. he had just replaced it from last time he went offroading... and the old argument about toyotas being stronger is just odd.. ive been involved in winch challenge and the only cvs that broke were a GU hitting a tree at full noise and ripping a knuckle off and range rovers every 5 seconds.

to add to that, GU diffs no longer cost $2000, they have come right down, so the price differance that it used to be isnt there anymore. im in no way saying that nissans are far superior but for me, ive had better luck with locked nissan diffs than with locked or unlocked toyota diffs.


BACK ON TOPIC
I still think a patrol would be better for fun, a 20G patrol will be alot newer and more comfy than a cruiser of equal value. yes the resale of a patrol isnt going to be as high but come on. its an old 4by and will most likely be owned till it dies in 10 years anyway. now im waiting on a toyota nut to come out and say " yeah well a toyota will last 20 more years" or something similar. both looked after the same through their life, they will last just aslong as each other. GQs and 7x series even rust just as fast as each other.

[bad_religion_au]

then again i gave my GQ absolute hell on 37 boggers twin locked and didnt even having clicking CVs. i launched the car in the air and landed full noise doing a vertical climb with the locker in... just kept going.

i also watched as a guy with a brand new diff with air locker in his 80 series grenaded his diff doing a fairly simple climb that i did unlocked. he had just replaced it from last time he went offroading... and the old argument about toyotas being stronger is just odd.. ive been involved in winch challenge and the only cvs that broke were a GU hitting a tree at full noise and ripping a knuckle off and range rovers every 5 seconds.

BACK ON TOPIC
I still think a patrol would be better for fun, a 20G patrol will be alot newer and more comfy than a cruiser of equal value.

for 20 grand you can get a very nice 80, or a decent 105 series. both are more comfortable to drive than a brand new GU.

as for the CV argument, i spent a lot of time involved with OZROCK, and saw none of the Chromo longfields break, plenty of patrol stuff did tho. and that's the point, there isn't anything CLOSE to as strong as the longfields for the patrols.

i'm not arguing that the high pinion 80 diff centre isn't a problem, but there are ways around it. stock for stock, a nissan diff will probably be stronger (it's wierd, some people abuse the hell out of GQ/GU diffs and never have a breakage, some break CV's every trip... it's like there was 2 factories making them, and one was in china). but if you want to build the strongest front end of the 2, i think you'd be hard pressed to get a Nissan close to a fully built tojo axle.

[TheBigBoy]

I think that, the fact you can get aftermarket goodies for a cruiser (almost anything you want or can think of) thanks to the yanks rates very highly. If they had patrols in the states LOOK OUT!!!! But they dont. I was even considering looking at a jeep as the offroad market/bits is huge over there...
But then I came to my sences.
I started with cruisers, then went to patrols. And now Im back with cruisers again. Bang for buck for an 80, it wins hands down. Sure its not as new as a GU. But its so cheap and reliable, you dont care even if you scratch or dint it. She just keeps on ticking and I have real soft spot for them (always room in my garage for 1)

[chunderlicious]

then again i gave my GQ absolute hell on 37 boggers twin locked and didnt even having clicking CVs. i launched the car in the air and landed full noise doing a vertical climb with the locker in... just kept going.

i also watched as a guy with a brand new diff with air locker in his 80 series grenaded his diff doing a fairly simple climb that i did unlocked. he had just replaced it from last time he went offroading... and the old argument about toyotas being stronger is just odd.. ive been involved in winch challenge and the only cvs that broke were a GU hitting a tree at full noise and ripping a knuckle off and range rovers every 5 seconds.

BACK ON TOPIC
I still think a patrol would be better for fun, a 20G patrol will be alot newer and more comfy than a cruiser of equal value.

for 20 grand you can get a very nice 80, or a decent 105 series. both are more comfortable to drive than a brand new GU.

i agree completely, but he wants a ute. and no doubt wants a diesel as everyone seems to think diesels are the best thing since the wheel was invented. and not many come up in semi decent condition with coil front (why bother with leaves up front these days) patrol is the only way imho... but that is me. i know patrol dont have the aftermarket support for driveline that toyota does, but like i said ive run mine on 37s no issues, built a car that rock crawled on 39s and didnt break a thing.

in the end, we all know this is a debate like holden vs ford... horses for courses.

[TheBigBoy]

Thats exactly the reason I got patrol aswell. I had a 75 cruiser ute and wanted full coils so went a st gu ute. I spent heaps on it. And still wasnt that happy hey.

Having said that. The 75 series was SHIT aswell. Kept breaking and spiting driverside rear axles. I did a shackle reversal on the front which made a huge difference, but not as good as coils.

[GO79]

Thats exactly the reason I got patrol aswell. I had a 75 cruiser ute and wanted full coils so went a st gu ute. I spent heaps on it. And still wasnt that happy hey.

Having said that. The 75 series was SHIT aswell. Kept breaking and spiting driverside rear axles. I did a shackle reversal on the front which made a huge difference, but not as good as coils.

[/b]

That would be because of your lack of maintenance with your rear wheel bearings mate not weak axels
Toyota have been bringing out factroy lockers since the 60 series and all through out the years of the 7x series, im sure they wouldnt put lockers in them and give factory warranty if the axels were shit and weak to start with[/i]

[TheBigBoy]

"That would be because of your lack of maintenance with your rear wheel bearings mate not weak axels"

AHHHH sorry mate your wrong. Its not that the axles are weak. You dont BREAK them, just break the studbolts and dowls and spit it out (literally flies away from your car when your driving along ) The 75 series has an offset rear diff centre. Nomatter how much maintanance you do with them, when you add bigger tyres and a bit more grunt they snap the dowl pins on the short drivers side and spit the axle out. Ive also seen many stock ones do the same thing (common problem). Rebuilt that floating axle side many many times. Used top grade stud bolts etc.. locktight, but they still come loose. Youll hear a clicking or growning when cornering and you know they are lose.

After it has spat a few times it ends up warping the axle plate in which you have to get a new 1. And its actually the 2 dowl pins that take the weight and pressures. After I put an extra 4 dowls in it slowed it down heaps. But still did it. Even after I had it welded on for a comp, it still broke.

The only solution I could find was to use get a gq (centre mounted diff) leafspring rear axle (leaf perch's where 30mm different) and then modify my crossmember for the drive shaft. I never got around to doing it though.

[GO79]

"That would be because of your lack of maintenance with your rear wheel bearings mate not weak axels"

AHHHH sorry mate your wrong. Its not that the axles are weak. You dont BREAK them, just break the studbolts and dowls and spit it out (literally flies away from your car when your driving along ) The 75 series has an offset rear diff centre. Nomatter how much maintanance you do with them, when you add bigger tyres and a bit more grunt they snap the dowl pins on the short drivers side and spit the axle out. Ive also seen many stock ones do the same thing (common problem). Rebuilt that floating axle side many many times. Used top grade stud bolts etc.. locktight, but they still come loose. Youll hear a clicking or growning when cornering and you know they are lose.

After it has spat a few times it ends up warping the axle plate in which you have to get a new 1. And its actually the 2 dowl pins that take the weight and pressures. After I put an extra 4 dowls in it slowed it down heaps. But still did it. Even after I had it welded on for a comp, it still broke.

The only solution I could find was to use get a gq (centre mounted diff) leafspring rear axle (leaf perch's where 30mm different) and then modify my crossmember for the drive shaft. I never got around to doing it though.

i have never seen a std cruiser break studs
i went through 3 hubs but that was on the long side of the diff not short side and each time was loose wheel bearing and 3rd was bent axel from jumpsthey only come loose for one reason the axel is bent or loose bearing thats the only way for the to be pushed and pulled when the wheel gos around

[TheBigBoy]

Thats amazing. I never once did the long side. Always the short side and I replaced it with a new axle and hub, and it still did it. Thats the only thing that lets the 75 series down. That and the rear wheel travel due to shortened leaf mounting points.

Mine did do it overalot more than others due to the full detroit locker I had in it. Which after I fixed all the axles etc I smashed all the spider gears into a million peaces.

[bad_religion_au]

"That would be because of your lack of maintenance with your rear wheel bearings mate not weak axels"

AHHHH sorry mate your wrong. Its not that the axles are weak. You dont BREAK them, just break the studbolts and dowls and spit it out (literally flies away from your car when your driving along ) The 75 series has an offset rear diff centre. Nomatter how much maintanance you do with them, when you add bigger tyres and a bit more grunt they snap the dowl pins on the short drivers side and spit the axle out. Ive also seen many stock ones do the same thing (common problem). Rebuilt that floating axle side many many times. Used top grade stud bolts etc.. locktight, but they still come loose. Youll hear a clicking or growning when cornering and you know they are lose.

After it has spat a few times it ends up warping the axle plate in which you have to get a new 1. And its actually the 2 dowl pins that take the weight and pressures. After I put an extra 4 dowls in it slowed it down heaps. But still did it. Even after I had it welded on for a comp, it still broke.

The only solution I could find was to use get a gq (centre mounted diff) leafspring rear axle (leaf perch's where 30mm different) and then modify my crossmember for the drive shaft. I never got around to doing it though.

there are 1000's of cruisers getting around on 35+ tires without sheering the hub studs, something you were doing, you were doing wrong.

it's generally enough to torque them to specs, and keep torquing them up after each drive till the torque value doesn't change. if that doesn't do it, redrilling them to take bigger hubstuds, and redrilling for an extra dowel or 2 should see diffs/ axleshafts go before them...

what happens is the cone washers seat a little bit at a time, putting slack into the system. if you don't keep on top of torquing them up, the slop = snap...

as for leaf vs coil... really, if we're talking an agricultural ute, it's not going to make the world of difference...

a leaf front and rear 60 series (in good nick) will be nicer to drive than a good condition GQ with coils... i don't see why everyone worships coils...

[TheBigBoy]

"That would be because of your lack of maintenance with your rear wheel bearings mate not weak axels"

AHHHH sorry mate your wrong. Its not that the axles are weak. You dont BREAK them, just break the studbolts and dowls and spit it out (literally flies away from your car when your driving along ) The 75 series has an offset rear diff centre. Nomatter how much maintanance you do with them, when you add bigger tyres and a bit more grunt they snap the dowl pins on the short drivers side and spit the axle out. Ive also seen many stock ones do the same thing (common problem). Rebuilt that floating axle side many many times. Used top grade stud bolts etc.. locktight, but they still come loose. Youll hear a clicking or growning when cornering and you know they are lose.

After it has spat a few times it ends up warping the axle plate in which you have to get a new 1. And its actually the 2 dowl pins that take the weight and pressures. After I put an extra 4 dowls in it slowed it down heaps. But still did it. Even after I had it welded on for a comp, it still broke.

The only solution I could find was to use get a gq (centre mounted diff) leafspring rear axle (leaf perch's where 30mm different) and then modify my crossmember for the drive shaft. I never got around to doing it though.

there are 1000's of cruisers getting around on 35+ tires without sheering the hub studs, something you were doing, you were doing wrong.

it's generally enough to torque them to specs, and keep torquing them up after each drive till the torque value doesn't change. if that doesn't do it, redrilling them to take bigger hubstuds, and redrilling for an extra dowel or 2 should see diffs/ axleshafts go before them...

what happens is the cone washers seat a little bit at a time, putting slack into the system. if you don't keep on top of torquing them up, the slop = snap...

as for leaf vs coil... really, if we're talking an agricultural ute, it's not going to make the world of difference...

a leaf front and rear 60 series (in good nick) will be nicer to drive than a good condition GQ with coils... i don't see why everyone worships coils...

Its so easy for you to say its something I was doing wrong hey. I did keep ontop of mine and kept tightening them. I tried everything. 3 other utes I personally knew spat axles (2 of them stock). Even a few guys on jobsite told me theirs had spat aswell before. I got diff guys to even have a go at fixing mine, the extra dowls slowed it down a bit. But it still did it. If you know how to fix it. Please tell everyone...

Your seriously not saying that leafs give a nicer ride that coils? Mine where fine for the times, but after many years of leafs and then jump into a coil cab ute (HUGE DIFFERENCE)...

[bad_religion_au]

Its so easy for you to say its something I was doing wrong hey. I did keep ontop of mine and kept tightening them. I tried everything. 3 other utes I personally knew spat axles (2 of them stock). Even a few guys on jobsite told me theirs had spat aswell before. I got diff guys to even have a go at fixing mine, the extra dowls slowed it down a bit. But it still did it. If you know how to fix it. Please tell everyone...

Your seriously not saying that leafs give a nicer ride that coils? Mine where fine for the times, but after many years of leafs and then jump into a coil cab ute (HUGE DIFFERENCE)...

like i said, there are HEAPS of people who run/comp these rear axles and don't have the issues. perhaps your housing was bent putting uneaven load on something? i don't know. what i do know is i've seen them stand up to the abuse up to 40 inch tires, and with 383 strokers.

or maybe you just drive harder stuff than anyone else

and yes, i'm saying leafs can be better than coils. i've driven PLENTY of 60 series (leaf all round) that ride better than a COILED GQ... it's not as simple as leaf = bad, coil = good...