Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
how much thread is needed in wheel spacers?
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
how much thread is needed in wheel spacers?
ok so i bought some whel spacers cheap from the states of fleabay, and on a mock fitup i noticed that they only get about 5 turns on the wheel nut (rovers have short studs and bid nuts and thread). i spoke to a wheel fella who is doing some work on my beadlocks and he says that you need at least 7 turns on a stud for strength. now these will be used for 'offroad road use only' and i thought 5 turns wasn't a tad ordinary as well?
i can get them machined out for $30/spacer, but is it worth the coin? i'm leaning toward a yes.
i've never had wheel spacers before.
i can get them machined out for $30/spacer, but is it worth the coin? i'm leaning toward a yes.
i've never had wheel spacers before.
1986 - Stage 1 V8 serIII style side ute - gone
1997 - 300 TDI 130 single cab ute - gone
1986 - 90 defender soft top, bars, buttons and tyres
2000 - TD5 disco 'the boss's rig'
1997 - 300 TDI 130 single cab ute - gone
1986 - 90 defender soft top, bars, buttons and tyres
2000 - TD5 disco 'the boss's rig'
For normal industrial bolting applications you should have engagement of at least 1.2 times the diameter of the bolt, so if the thread was 10mm dia, the engagment length is a minimum of 12mm. You should have more for higher load situations. I am sure if you can put your hands on a copy of 'machinery handbook', you will get a good guide.
80's_delirious wrote:another rule of thumb is that you should have the nut fully threaded onto the bolt or stud and have 2 full threads protruding.
this is because rolled threads taper of at the ends so the end couple of threads on a bolt wont be the full diameter of the rest of the bolt
x2 on longer wheel studs
Agreed
And they only cost a few $
Manuels= 4wd,cars,bikes,guns,trucks,race cars
Automatics=washing machines,dish washers,fridges
Automatics=washing machines,dish washers,fridges
thanks for the replys. i don't understand how longer nuts on the wheel helps the small bite on the wheel spacer? (excuse my ignorance). the wheel spacer nut, which is obvioulsy enclosed within the wheel spacer has not much bite on the original wheel stud. longer nuts won't help this as the surface in between the wheel spacer wheel nut and wheel stud is to great to get the nut in any further, thus needing to machine that surface down to get more bite and stay enclosed within the wheel spacer so the wheel/rim doesn't fowl on the spacer - if that makes sense?
from the given posts i think i have to machine down the spacer (where the wheel nut joins the original thread) so that it bites to the extent of at least using the full nut on the stud, or even further using the 1.2 times the diameter - which is approx 16mm x 1.2. after measuring the nut that came with the spacers they are 16mm (the dia. of the wheel stud), so i'll at least go for that or roughly 2 turns or 19mm on the original thread.
have i spoken turkish or does this make sense?
from the given posts i think i have to machine down the spacer (where the wheel nut joins the original thread) so that it bites to the extent of at least using the full nut on the stud, or even further using the 1.2 times the diameter - which is approx 16mm x 1.2. after measuring the nut that came with the spacers they are 16mm (the dia. of the wheel stud), so i'll at least go for that or roughly 2 turns or 19mm on the original thread.
have i spoken turkish or does this make sense?
1986 - Stage 1 V8 serIII style side ute - gone
1997 - 300 TDI 130 single cab ute - gone
1986 - 90 defender soft top, bars, buttons and tyres
2000 - TD5 disco 'the boss's rig'
1997 - 300 TDI 130 single cab ute - gone
1986 - 90 defender soft top, bars, buttons and tyres
2000 - TD5 disco 'the boss's rig'
a picture tells a thousand words (in any language)def90 wrote:
have i spoken turkish or does this make sense?
the suggestion was for longer replacement wheel studs to be fitted to the hub so that the stud sticks through the wheel spacer far enough to get the nut fully threaded on while still being enclosed within the wheel spacer.
make sense?
and no, I dont speak Turkish
80's_delirious wrote:a picture tells a thousand words (in any language)def90 wrote:
have i spoken turkish or does this make sense?
the suggestion was for longer replacement wheel studs to be fitted to the hub so that the stud sticks through the wheel spacer far enough to get the nut fully threaded on while still being enclosed within the wheel spacer.
make sense?
and no, I dont speak Turkish
I didnt understand Untill 80's_del spoke Turkish
Now thats how I read it
Manuels= 4wd,cars,bikes,guns,trucks,race cars
Automatics=washing machines,dish washers,fridges
Automatics=washing machines,dish washers,fridges
yep sorry read the post wrong, thats why i was confused when i thought it was said to get longer nuts, of course that will sweet freddy all.chunderlicious wrote:studs, not nuts. nuts wont do shit if there isnt a stud to put it on.
i think i'll wing it for now, wheel studs are 25mm long, there is about 10mm of meat on the spacer (measured from the bottom of the little bevel), that gives me roughly 15mm on the thread, actually near 7 turns of the nut.
1986 - Stage 1 V8 serIII style side ute - gone
1997 - 300 TDI 130 single cab ute - gone
1986 - 90 defender soft top, bars, buttons and tyres
2000 - TD5 disco 'the boss's rig'
1997 - 300 TDI 130 single cab ute - gone
1986 - 90 defender soft top, bars, buttons and tyres
2000 - TD5 disco 'the boss's rig'
Check out the Nice Products catalogue at
http://www.niceproducts.com.au
You can find what you need then order it.
http://www.niceproducts.com.au
You can find what you need then order it.
Cheers,
Zuffen
There's no such a thing as too much horsepower
Zuffen
There's no such a thing as too much horsepower
Re: how much thread is needed in wheel spacers?
def90 wrote:ok so i bought some whel spacers cheap from the states of fleabay, and on a mock fitup i noticed that they only get about 5 turns on the wheel nut (rovers have short studs and bid nuts and thread). i spoke to a wheel fella who is doing some work on my beadlocks and he says that you need at least 7 turns on a stud for strength. now these will be used for 'offroad road use only' and i thought 5 turns wasn't a tad ordinary as well?
i can get them machined out for $30/spacer, but is it worth the coin? i'm leaning toward a yes.
i've never had wheel spacers before.
1986 - Stage 1 V8 serIII style side ute - gone
1997 - 300 TDI 130 single cab ute - gone
1986 - 90 defender soft top, bars, buttons and tyres
2000 - TD5 disco 'the boss's rig'
1997 - 300 TDI 130 single cab ute - gone
1986 - 90 defender soft top, bars, buttons and tyres
2000 - TD5 disco 'the boss's rig'
Re: how much thread is needed in wheel spacers?
so in other words they will never get useddef90 wrote:def90 wrote:ok so i bought some whel spacers cheap from the states of fleabay, and on a mock fitup i noticed that they only get about 5 turns on the wheel nut (rovers have short studs and bid nuts and thread). i spoke to a wheel fella who is doing some work on my beadlocks and he says that you need at least 7 turns on a stud for strength. now these will be used for 'offroad road use only' and i thought 5 turns wasn't a tad ordinary as well?
i can get them machined out for $30/spacer, but is it worth the coin? i'm leaning toward a yes.
i've never had wheel spacers before.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest