Gen 1 3.5L V6 conversion and TT build up

[iwan]

some update for the past few days..

i'm almost complete working on the cover for the 3.5's meter. just need to make the cover for both side and have it wrapped or painted temporarily. let me know if you guys have some ideas for it.




the engine's crank oil seal was changed, new clutch plate fitted and bolted, got 6 NGK IK22 iridium spark plugs which should last for 80,000km and i sprayed the under body and chassis with black oxide paint to keep rust minimal. i can't stay for too long at the workshop today, which we're supposed to put the engine back in. so i guess it's going to be tomorrow's first on the list. i didn't change the timing belt because it only had 60,000km on it, based on the sticker at the timing belt cover. i know this is some risk i'm taking, but i'm going to run this engine for 1-2 month just to check if there's a problem with it. if everything is working fine, i'll send her in to have its engine oil changed (again) and work on the timing belt as well.

more pictures tomorrow..

[scorpion 42]

Iwan,
Thats OK mate, the next change of the timing belt should be 113,000, BUT
see if you can find out if the water pump was changed at the last timing belt change, if not, then if it was my truck, then I would factor in a new water pump when I changed the timing belt and adjuster, just to be on the safe side.

And another point, as I have told you before about the petrol, if you use the lower octane fuel then look out for some serious needs for having it decoked sooner than later.

[iwan]

actually, the engine has had 157K km now and based on the sticker on the timing belt cover, timing belt was changed at 90K km. but my mech told that timing belt is still in a good shape and doesn't require change for now. that means i could still have less than 23K km before it's time to replace it.

yep..no worries about the fuel tank, i'll get it done soon. thanks for the water pump replacement suggestion, i'll keep it in mind. today is going to be a tough day...putting the engine back in.

[iwan]

some update.

we put the engine back in yesterday, plug all the sockets and install the gearbox crossmember. i couldn't take pictures of it installed because there was a thunderstorm soon after. but here's the final picture of the gearbox crossmember.




i'm going to work on putting back the gear lever, aircond dryer bottle and hoses for the power steering and oil coolers.

[iwan]

some updates for today.

saturday today and i started working on the paj quite late in the day..about 3pm. spent some time with the kids. anyway, we worked on the air-cond dryer bottle, fixing the (halfway) V6 exhaust pipe and fitting the front UCAs and LCAs. the torsion bar rear end brackets were sent to machine shop yesterday. we are supposed to install the radiator but the parts supply delivery man didn't show up when he was supposed to send another dc fan for the condenser. i'm using 2 fan for the condenser.

oh well, i got a pic of the gearbox crossmember and a pic of where i mount my ecu. that's the best i can do..



located on LH behind the glove box. i think it is well 1' from the cab floor.

[scorpion 42]

Can you not get the ECU any higher than that, what if you go wading, after offroading, to get the worst of the c**p off the underbody and the radiator ETC, I hung my one under the dash in the glove box, so that its as near to the bottom of the dash as possible, but there you go, better there than having to dry it out all the time.

[iwan]

that's the highest i point i can mount it on the firewall. further up is the windscreen wiper linkage compartment - not a flat surface and can't put holes on it because that compartment is made so that water runs through it.

jack, we got an almost identical gearbox, did you notice that there's a pto output on the case? ever heard or seen a 3.5 (auto/man) with a pto winch?

left on the picture..one that has 10bolts and rectangular shape. that's the pto output right?

[iwan]

just got back from 5day holiday to lombok island, indonesia. lots to see..lots to explore. just got back home today.

i managed to call back to check on the progress. was told that the engine is started and most of the electrical job is done. can't wait to check it out tomorrow.

[iwan]

okay boys..here's some updates.

everything that is need to be done in the engine bay is almost done..just pending air-cond hoses. engine is started..it idles great and sounds great too. i'll put my comments based on pictures.

engine bay from left side.


fuel regulator..set at 32psi. might be upped a lil bit after some test driving.


that's the 6" air filter adapter to fit K&N air filter. notice the steel braided hoses for power steering box and fluid cooler.


engine bay from right side.


engine oil cooler and power steering fluid cooler. all with steel braided hoses.


front left wheel assembly. using the gen 2 LCA, i got an extra 1" travel for the shock absorbers.


the torsion bar adjusting lever modified. spot welded just prior test fit.


this is how it looks when fitted. i hope this mod is capable to withstand the stress.


latest picture of the engine bay. the air filter is temporary until i can get an aluminum box fabricated to enclose the air filter and get a snorkel fitted.


just pending on the rear axle swap. i think we will have to move the vehicle on a hoist to properly work on the rear end because i also need to clean the fuel tank. see if i can ask my mech to move it tomorrow.

i just uploaded the video to youtube. might take a while for youtube to publish it. video will be on the next post.

[NJV6]

Good work, looks like it was meant to be there!

[iwan]

...looks like it was meant to be there!...

thanks! yep..it was almost as OEM.

spoke to my mech. we're gonna move the paj and start dismantling the rear axle tomorrow. anyway, here's a video of the engine started. the exhaust was only halfway though..

3.5L engine in a gen 1 started

[Spicoli]

Nice Iwan!!!!!

2 things tho

Hope the material your torsion bars are made out of are suitable to be welded and you didnt loose all your spring rate by welding them and gettin em hot.

And why the hell did you keep your auto hubs? Part of the government regs? Seems like an awful lot of work to keep em.

But regardless killer work, so uh........ whens the TT swap start? Next week I'm assuming

[NJV6]

Where are the auto hubs Spicoli?

Looks like gen 2 hubs to me....

[Dias999]

Bumpers,sliders - perfect!
I like your idea about engine conversion.
Very good job

[iwan]

Hope the material your torsion bars are made out of are suitable to be welded and you didnt loose all your spring rate by welding them and gettin em hot.

But regardless killer work, so uh........ whens the TT swap start? Next week I'm assuming

no..noo. torsion bar itself was never cut or welded. just the lever and end housing was cut and welded. i just couldn't imagine anyone would cut the torsion bar and weld it again.

i'll leave the gen 2 hubs for now. there's always time to change it later. just want to test whether the system works or not for now.

i guess i'm gonna put the paj to the trail first and see whether i could use more power or what it is now is just gonna be fine. plus..i'm inch away from being broke.

[iwan]

Bumpers,sliders - perfect!
I like your idea about engine conversion.
Very good job

thanks. when the conversion is completed, i'll do a write up for this conversion. quite easy tho..

[iwan]

some updates for today.

we moved the paj today..and we took a long breath and rest afterward.

a picture on all wheels.


a closer pic.


a closer pic of the suspension.


pic from the front. camber was bad as a result of balljoint flip..left wheel is worst. i'll fix that tomorrow.


rear axle removed.

[scorpion 42]

Hi Iwan,
Just seen your latest couple of posts, seems things have been crawling along while you were away.
I was having a look at the K&N filter, I had one of them fitted, but had to have my snorkel and the only one that would fit my 3.5 GDI was the Australian one thats fitted to it, so the K&N had to go and I had to have a MK2 air box and an ordinary flat air filter and that way, I can really seal it all up real good, for when I go deep wading and some silacone run around the N/S plug leads, that way there's no problems with any of the cylinders missing up to now, hope that this box you are going to fabricate will be really able to seal, real good to be waterproof, best of luck, things are looking good.

[iwan]

thanks jack. i'll put a note to it. today we are going to clean the fuel tank and position the new axle in place.

[iwan]

some updates from last week.

dropped the tank but can't stay for long to get it clean. if my mech didn't continue from there, i'll just have to do it myself. however, i did put on the floor carpet, bolt the dash board together and also the steering wheel. all wiring is completely done, but i haven't seen 4wd indicator lit when i changed the 4wd gear forth and back. haven't test the bulb yet but could it be possible that the indicator won't lit if there's no oil in the case or gearbox?

[scorpion 42]

The 4 WD lights should light up even though there maybe no oil in either the gearbox, front and rear Diff's or for that matter the transfer box, its either the bulbs have gone caput or maybe there's no bulbs in position or you may not have connected a couple of wires, or even worse maybe ther is no bulb holders behind the clocks, well you will have to remember to check, before you fabricate the shroud you were thinking of making and fitting, at the moment thats the least of yoiur worrys, still loads to do and time waits for no feeble man LOL. But never mind, your getting there Iwan. Cheers Jack.

[iwan]

The 4 WD lights should light up even though there maybe no oil in either the gearbox, front and rear Diff's or for that matter the transfer box, its either the bulbs have gone caput or maybe there's no bulbs in position or you may not have connected a couple of wires, or even worse maybe ther is no bulb holders behind the clocks, well you will have to remember to check, before you fabricate the shroud you were thinking of making and fitting, at the moment thats the least of yoiur worrys, still loads to do and time waits for no feeble man LOL. But never mind, your getting there Iwan. Cheers Jack.

thanks jack. my mech is sorting the bug.

[iwan]

updates!

we installed the new axle today, re-check the wiring and tidying up the interior.

here it is. i replaced the brake lines on the axle with steel braided hose and also on all wheels. the metal brake tubes on the new axle were in bad condition. the clutch pump also receive steel braided hose.




and this is a picture showing the angle of the prop shaft after the install. i compressed both leafs and still get the same angle..hopefully this is the correct way to line them up.



appreciate your comments. fuel tank will be installed tomorrow along with new fuel filter. really hope to get the paj out of the workshop and get the exhaust done on the same day, or the day after.

[Guy]

and this is a picture showing the angle of the prop shaft after the install. i compressed both leafs and still get the same angle..hopefully this is the correct way to line them up.


.

Ideally your pinion angle should be basically horizontal to keep the angles of your uni joints equal ..
So if your angle at the Tcase is - 5 degrees the angle at the diff should be +5 degress .. to equal 0 degrees over all ..

The pinion pointing up like that will also allow for easier destruction of uni joints under power as the pinion rotates up. The joint has less defletction before the yokes bind (Spent alot of time replacing such things on a geared down highly sprung suzuki sierra)

[scorpion 42]

Iwan, I hope you or your Mech is going to tie down those new brake pipes, because they wont be staying there very long and your handbrake cable seems to be in the wrong place too, it should be above the propshaft, otherwise thats gone too, in no time flat and be jamming your brake shoes on and making a real stink, LOL.
Did your fuel filter used to be up under the chassis by the n/ side ( right hand drive ) rear wheel or just under the N / side rear seat position and have you managed to get the high pressure fuel pump etc that mounts inside the petrol tank ???

Regards Jack.

[iwan]

oh yes. those brake lines are clamp down and the handbrake cables are tied down where they're supposed to be. i took the picture when things are not done yet.

the paj are out of the wshop and i'm on my 2nd myr100 tank fill. so far it drives great, lots of power and i'm monitoring the fuel consumption. with few exception, the fuel filter is relatively small and choked the fuel pump and eventually the engine. cleaned it and it drives well again. i'm not sure just how bad fuel tank is..i did the cleaning myself and was satisfied at a point where there are substantial small particles were removed during the cleaning process. and yet, the fuel filter is still clogged!

just how actually do you clean the fuel tank?? what i did was removing the big screw under the belly and put the tank on top of a tray and pour petrol in to wash out the small particle. i repeat this for about 10 times.

[Guy]

I cleaned out a tank once by removing filling (5 liters or so) degreaser and kerosine mix and a length of chain (to agitae the mix) drove aroud with it in the back of a ute for a few days .. the stuff that came out was pretty rotten .. but the tank was nice and clean.

I washed it out serveral times with soapy water then final rinse with metholated spirits (to help get rid of the water)

[iwan]

I cleaned out a tank once by removing filling (5 liters or so) degreaser and kerosine mix and a length of chain (to agitae the mix) drove aroud with it in the back of a ute for a few days .. the stuff that came out was pretty rotten .. but the tank was nice and clean.

I washed it out serveral times with soapy water then final rinse with metholated spirits (to help get rid of the water)

wow..that's is very a lengthy process. i'll do what i can to get done. my fuel tank has some dents on the belly..battle scar from sometime ago. i guess it rusts in some way in there..

[iwan]

i changed my tires few days back..and here some pics of it. they're silverstone mt-117 sport 285/75/16..or 33".

[Guy]

Power wise .. have you noticed much drop since fitting the silverstones ?