there has to be a oil seal there right?

[tanz-e]

on the front diff where the tail shaft joins... started leaking oil recently.
access by dropping the tailshaft?

any help is appreciated.

[albundy]

Yep, called a pinion seal. You will need a big socket and breaker bar.
al

[tanz-e]

thanks mate...

[big red]

before you do that check that the diff breather is not blocked and pressurising the diff.

[rusty bus]

Also make sure you mark the nut to the pinion thread and the flange plate so you can do it all up to the same spot you undid it from. When you undo it count how many turns you undo it so it can be done up the same amount of turns and tightened to the same point it was before, if not a fanny hair tighter. Also use loctite on it to. I say the above because the nut wich holds the flange on also sets the preload on the pinion bearings, and if overtightened will overload them and also may change the cownwheel to pinion backlash if tightened to much.

cheers john.

[tanz-e]

Also make sure you mark the nut to the pinion thread and the flange plate so you can do it all up to the same spot you undid it from. When you undo it count how many turns you undo it so it can be done up the same amount of turns and tightened to the same point it was before, if not a fanny hair tighter. Also use loctite on it to. I say the above because the nut wich holds the flange on also sets the preload on the pinion bearings, and if overtightened will overload them and also may change the cownwheel to pinion backlash if tightened to much.

cheers john.

is there a torque setting?~ if that works?

Edit: 196 to 285 according to hienz manual.

[rusty bus]

Normally if tightening the pinion nut up for the first time with new bearings and a new crush washer used you would tighten the nut up bit by bit while continually checking the amount of force needed to turn the pinion (without crownwheel and carrier in). Once it reaches a certain amount of torque needed to turn the pinion this is where they leave it. There is a set torque setting for the drag required to get correct preload on the bearings but you would use a spring scale to measure this which you dont need to do seeing as it has already been set.

As long as it goes together the same way you took it apart and the nut ends up in the same spot it will be good. As i said even a fanny hair tighter wont hurt just to give you peace of mind it wont come loose but be sure to use loctite just in case. It takes a certain amount of torque to crush the crush washer more making the preload greater but its quite easy to do the old "one more and ill leave it" trick and end up overdoing it.

[tanz-e]

thanks heaps...
ill be surely careful