Hilux 5L - Starter Removal

[aususer]

Anyone got tricks/advice on removal of hilux 2002 5L EFI denso (288000-xx) starter?

OK... I read that this is a very frustrating job.

I have the intermittant clicky-clicky starter that I'm "reliably informed" is a sure sign of contacts/plunger need replacing - ordered those via Ebay and due to hit the shore this week..

Read in a few pages that its a bitch to do.. and to expect what LOOKS like a 10 min job to usually take 6 Hours, thrown back and a ton of bandaids..

there has to be a better trick.

So far my advice has been - but not sure if its relevant to the 5L:

Drink a lot of beer
1. remove both batt leads
2. unbolt the fuelfilter housing and move the lot lateraly (towards the engine) hoses attached (wire/rope it in out of the way)
3. remove dipstick and bottom pipe holder (relevant?)
4. 17mm socket with a million extensions on it - between the tailshaft and exhaust along the bellhousing to "crack" the tension off the top bolt - don't undo it.. (it takes the weight)
5. undo the bottom bolt
6. remove LHS rubber "mud skirt" between starter and wheel
7. put chassis on stand and let left wheel "hang"
8. remove left wheel
9. through the wheelarch undo/unbolt/unclip all power cables to starter
10. stand on wheel and reach down to remove the starter through bonnet
aparently getting it out is the hardest part and compares (pain included) giving birth to a 20 Kg baby.

replace contacts (10 min job)

reinsert in reverse...

Any advice appreciated.

[nayto]

Sounds pretty much right mate, dont work yourself up it aint hard at all. Done a few and didnt even get to drink while doing it an i survived.

[aususer]

OK.. must be something about the 5L / 2002 Dualcab but didn't even need to lift the car up! Did it last night in (almost dark) even!
Here are the steps in case anyone wants to try it with the same model.

Tools needed: 17mm ring; 17mm socket + adjustable head-angle socket driver , 12mm Open ended Spanner

Note: the adjustable head socket driver is the BEST tool to do this with as it allows the head adjustment so the handle to run between the firewall and the bell housing.. you could not do this job as easy without one.. I think I got mine from Justtools - its a 1/4"... but excellent tool!
Like this one:
http://www.comparestoreprices.co.uk/ima ... atchet.jpg

Steps:
1. Disconnect battery (12mm in my case)
2. disconnect all wires and piping to Air filter/box (mine has snorkel)
3. remove airbox/filter completly (good time to give it a clean with the 'pressor?!)
4. move all cable formers/holders out of the way
5. disconnect solenoid switch cable (connector)
6. diconnect 12V cable (12mm open ended spanner)
7. break tension off 2x 17mm bolts (might need leaverage - I needed a piece of steel pipe over socket driver to crack the tension) and loosen both with the socket driver head bent to about 45degrees.
(tip: the top bolt is threaded into the starter housing; but the bottom bolt is a nut/bolt combination - and the nut's hard to see - do this from below - 2ppl will speed the job up)
8. remove bottom bolt/nut (and a quick cleanup for easier re-insert)
9. remove top bolt (will need to hold up starter to remove weight)
10. remove starter backwards and upwards via area between chassis, engine and injector pump. Does slide out easy (the mounting plate of starter is tricky to manouver - be patient)
ITS OUT!

Quick overhaul of the starter contacts (could probably have cleaned them up - but bought the goods from UK - only too 5 days to get here - so replaced them anyway).
Flip starter upsideown (teeth to the ground)
1. Unscrew solenoid backplate (three 8mm bolts with phillips screwtop - very soft metal - use the 8mm!)
2. remove the contactor - BUT LEAVE SPRING IN -(it holds the ballbearing at the bottom in - loose that and game is over!)
3. unbolt 12mm holding common 12V for motor and move out of way.
4. unbolt 2x 12mm nuts holding contact bolts in place
5. remove contactors - note the seqence for the insulators and o'rings.. (do one at a time and lay them out in order).
6. replace first contactor - fingertight and use the new contactor/20mm socket to make sure its square and bottomed out.
tip: the contacts have to sit flat or the contactor will make connection to the contacts in the raised point... and wear the contacts out quicker.
7. tighten every thing up.

reverse everything for re-installation.

Jobs done..
Took me about 1 hour and NO LOST SKIN!!

[havok011101]

I had help getting mine off but it wasn't hard - and I don't know what I'm doing!

I needed extensions but it didn't go too badly, the top bold I did front underneath beside the gearbox, the bottom was more from the front the engine bay... getting it out was slightly painful but you just need to find the right place to slide her out.

Best advise that I ignored was to attach the wires first, they're a bit painful to get to after it's all bolted up.

[aususer]

an update post:
The Contacts didn't make a damn worth of difference.. same problem - only worse now..

It appears that the clutch in the starter is at fault.
With the starter removed, and power applied to the contacts - the spindle comes out and it all seems to be OK.

When I put it back in - I can hear the spindle push out - and the motor spinning OK..but no turn-over.. it just spins.

I suspect the clutch gear. Stripped the starter yesterday and re-grease (everything seems fine - that damn expansionring at the end is a bitch to refit.

Anyway I expect that I amgoing to have to buy a replacement starter..
only problem is its Anzac Day- and tomorrow is a public holiday.. so looking for a starter private (so I can get to work Tuesday!).. bugger.

For what its worth.. got removal down to about a 10 min job..13mmto remove the airbox; 12mm to remove the power; 17mm adjustable head ratchet removes the mounting bolts. No need to get underneath or jackup.. all done from the top..

If you know someone who has a 5L starter.. I'm keen - especially today*sigh*

[aususer]

Outstanding! Problem found.
Found the clutch had a bankup of old dirty grease in it - essentially "holding" the flywheel gear partlially out. (visual test showed that the flywheel gear "appeared" to be fully engaging,but obviously was not all the time.

Dismanteled the starter housing (remove the stator - brushes in excellent cond.); removed the front "gear" housing (three gears from stator/motor to flywheel cog); removed the flywheel cog (split ring in the end).

Stripped and solvant cleaned - Bearing could do with a replacement in the future -but delayed for now (don't expect a lot of usage - so no urgency on this one).

Reassemble with a very light apply of high-temp grease.

Install (got that down to a 5 min job now) - and test exellent!
I'll See how it goes when I amunder pressure... but all initial trials are excellent.

This problem appeared just after a major bottom-end oil seal replace but it must have been a co-incidence.
Anyway - thanks to those who gave input.. hope this helps someone else..

If you are searching for starter problem resolution - the symptom of this problem:
Starter Motor spinning and clicking "normal", but not engaging or (usually) partially engaging to the flywheel (results in grinding sound).
Starter Motor will spin at full tilt if the start held but no start. Hear solinoid clicking in OK.
Would usually started sucessfully after 5-20 tries (if you have patience). Would start first go 9 out of 10 mornings - mostly once car warmed up.

[havok011101]

Nice work on finding the problem mate...