adjusting fuel td42

[brad-chevlux]

EGT on a NA TD42 gets very hot very fast with the fuel turned up.

when i had my turbo off, just running standard manifold and first length of pipe under the cab, didnt knock fuel back (only see 430* when turbo'd, even on long pulls with LPG, no LPG when NA) and it nearly hit 730* before i lost my bottle and pulled the boot out of it

and that wasnt a very long hill, so yes, be very careful upping fuel on an NA motor, more so than turbod

750 is considered safe on a TD42. that is 750 in the manifold for an NA engine or 750 pre turbo for turbo engine.

[Mario]

The limit I have always handled is 1250 degrees Farenheit.

[brad-chevlux]

The limit I have always handled is 1250 degrees Farenheit.

1250 degree Fahrenheit = 676.6666667 degree Celsius

[love ke70]

EGT on a NA TD42 gets very hot very fast with the fuel turned up.

when i had my turbo off, just running standard manifold and first length of pipe under the cab, didnt knock fuel back (only see 430* when turbo'd, even on long pulls with LPG, no LPG when NA) and it nearly hit 730* before i lost my bottle and pulled the boot out of it

and that wasnt a very long hill, so yes, be very careful upping fuel on an NA motor, more so than turbod

750 is considered safe on a TD42. that is 750 in the manifold for an NA engine or 750 pre turbo for turbo engine.

and is it 550 if reading post turbo?

i was making the point, if i hadnt pulled the foot out of it, the temperatures were showing no sign of peaking, they were just gonna keep climbing, which is why i made the point of being careful if your gonna add fuel to NA motor, as they will get high egts easily

[brad-chevlux]

EGT on a NA TD42 gets very hot very fast with the fuel turned up.

when i had my turbo off, just running standard manifold and first length of pipe under the cab, didnt knock fuel back (only see 430* when turbo'd, even on long pulls with LPG, no LPG when NA) and it nearly hit 730* before i lost my bottle and pulled the boot out of it

and that wasnt a very long hill, so yes, be very careful upping fuel on an NA motor, more so than turbod

750 is considered safe on a TD42. that is 750 in the manifold for an NA engine or 750 pre turbo for turbo engine.

and is it 550 if reading post turbo?

i was making the point, if i hadnt pulled the foot out of it, the temperatures were showing no sign of peaking, they were just gonna keep climbing, which is why i made the point of being careful if your gonna add fuel to NA motor, as they will get high egts easily

dsltech recommends no more then 550 post turbo. i tend to listen to what he has to say about these things.

[luxorr]

can do this with out taking off the fuel lines have done heaps that way

how i wanna turn my fuek down a tiny bit. it is blowin heaps of smoke after my mechanic turned up the fuel after fitting the turbo!

[brad-chevlux]

anaroid lets the second lot of fuel in at the set (adjustable) boost pressure.

from what i've seen, it not and 'ON' 'OFF' fuel switch. there is not really a 'second' lot of fuel.


its in proportion to the amount of boost, you can adjust the rate at which fuel is added vs: boost pressure, the bolt in the top sets the off boost fuel, the cog under the inside the housing set the the "ramp rate" and the fuel screw on the pump still set the total fuel.


changing the ramp rate can work wonders with how fast your turbo will spool.

[J0RDY]

just in reply to adjusting the fuel easier than how Mario explained. Insted of using an open ended spanner to undo the lock nut, try using a long series 1/4 inch socket set with the 13 mm piece and an extension. I was too scared to take that fuel line off so i worked around it with a spanner untill I realised how stupid i was and got out the socket set. Way way way easier!

[macneil]

just in reply to adjusting the fuel easier than how Mario explained. Insted of using an open ended spanner to undo the lock nut, try using a long series 1/4 inch socket set with the 13 mm piece and an extension. I was too scared to take that fuel line off so i worked around it with a spanner untill I realised how stupid i was and got out the socket set. Way way way easier!

the reason u use the open ender spanner is so when u tighten the lock ring you dont turn the fuel screw up more.. ie you hold the fuel screw still with a screw driver... u probably turned your fuel pump up over 1/4 a turn which could cause damage to your engine..

wither way we did it in 5mins with the fuel line still on..

[Mario]

just in reply to adjusting the fuel easier than how Mario explained. Insted of using an open ended spanner to undo the lock nut, try using a long series 1/4 inch socket set with the 13 mm piece and an extension. I was too scared to take that fuel line off so i worked around it with a spanner untill I realised how stupid i was and got out the socket set. Way way way easier!

the reason u use the open ender spanner is so when u tighten the lock ring you dont turn the fuel screw up more.. ie you hold the fuel screw still with a screw driver... u probably turned your fuel pump up over 1/4 a turn which could cause damage to your engine..

wither way we did it in 5mins with the fuel line still on..

You're damn right Mcnreil !

What's the problem with removing the fuel line anyways ?

[J0RDY]

Yeah, didn't quite think that one through did I? but if you did remove the fuel line, wouldn't you need to prime the system again?

[Mario]

Yeah, didn't quite think that one through did I? but if you did remove the fuel line, wouldn't you need to prime the system again?

Nope, that's a return line !

[chunks]

Ok so my pyro and boost gauge fit up is almost finished finally and I wanted to see if I have the right idea for the tuning process. My plan was to drive the vehicle with the gauges fitted to see where the boost and egt sit in its current form (3" turbo back exhaust otherwise stock). Then I was going to increase the boost to 12 psi with my bleed valve and drive it again to see where the egts are at, then gradually increase the fuel adjustment till I see no more then 550 post turbo on a big hill at full noise. I will also adjust the idle screw to get the idle right with the fuel turned up. Anything else I need to do, do you have to adjust anything on the boost compensator (its an 06 model)?? Sorry for all the questions but this is my company car and my boss will kill me if I melt pistons!! I'm keen to do it myself, but if I'm only going to get myself into trouble I'd rather take it to the boys at the diesel shop and get them to do it.

[chunks]

Well I got my pyro and boost gauge all finished today so I took it for a run. Boost untouched was 9.5- 10 psi with the 3" exhaust, and up a long hill egt's got up to just over 500 degrees (post turbo) at full noise in 4th gear running 35s. I then wound the boost up to 13 psi and on the same hill egt's were only around 450 maybe 480 degrees. Also it was a reasonably hot day here today close to 35 degrees so I guess egt's will be lower in cooler weather. Next step is give the fuel a slight tweak and see how she goes.

[GQ4.2]

im just about to install a pyro on my patrol

just wanting to confirm do you mount the pyro before the turbo or into the dump pipe and a safe setting for either a NA or turbo TD42 is 550 degrees celcious???

[chunks]

Mine is mounted in the place provided in the dump pipe on the Beaudesert exhaust, a lot of people say it is it better to have it before the turbo though.

[msjc38]

boost pressure, the bolt in the top sets the off boost fuel, the cog under the inside the housing set the the "ramp rate" and the fuel screw on the pump still set the total fuel.

The screw on top of the boost compensator is off boost fuel. The cog sets the spring tension of how much boost presure it take to push the boost pin down. So buy adjusting that upwards wiil cause later on boost fueling & downwards will cause early on boost fueling. I dont recomed adjusting that at all. On boost compensated pumps dont touch the main fueling at all when adding boost pressure you normaly only need to adjust the on boost fuel by adjusting how far the boots pin travels in the boost compensator

[chunks]

Now I'm confused!

[coxy321]

Now I'm confused!

It's not that hard, but getting it right most certainly is. Thats why you're best to leave it to the workshops with many years experience on this stuff.

[chunks]

Yeh I'm a mechanic but have never fiddled with injection pumps before. Just got back from a 150km approx drive through various country and the max I got egt's were 500 degrees up a very long hill in 3rd giving it a fair bit.

[NissanMaverick]

If you didn't have a pyrometer and wern't planning on fitting one in the near future could you just turn the screw a 1/8 turn and have a bit more fuel?

[thehanko]

yes you can... but you still have no idea what going on inside. so it still might be too much or it might be fine.

adjusting fuel pumps at home is an inexact science. doing it blind with out any instrumental feedback is simply guessing.

buy a pyro from auberins.com and at least have a little piece of mind. its like $100.

[sw1]

chunks, this is an interesting read about adjusting boost compensators: http://www.landroverweb.com/Pdf-files/T ... _Rev_2.pdf

[Northside 4x4]

If your going to fit a pyro on a td42, put it in the exhaust manifold in cylinders 1 or 6.
Guaranteed those two will be significantly hotter than the rest, so it is a good point to be measuring from.


What does the post turbo gauge tell you? Stuff all IMO. Its an average of all 6 cylinders, and how much heat drop is there across the turbine? It varies on every setup.

[simcoe]

Now I'm confused!

It's not that hard, but getting it right most certainly is. Thats why you're best to leave it to the workshops with many years experience on this stuff.

my thoughts also!
its all well and good turning the fuel screw but thats not the whole picture on how it all works and getting the most reliable power.

[gudge]

If your going to fit a pyro on a td42, put it in the exhaust manifold in cylinders 1 or 6.
Guaranteed those two will be significantly hotter than the rest, so it is a good point to be measuring from.

This is purely because of the standard intake manifold yeah ?

[Abitibi]

Someone asked about the easiest way to adjust the fuel. I only use two tools, the 13mm open wrench and a multi screwdriver.

Simply undo the return fuel hose at the IP to move it out of the way and you'll have enough space to adjust the fuel screw... If it's never been done before you'll need to remove the safety cap (witness cap?) on the fuel screw, easy enough...

After installing my turbo I ended up adding almost a 1/2 turn. My idle went up to 775rpm so I brought it back down to 650. I find it smokes a bit more at idle but not very much under load. Funny enough my boost went down after I upped the fuel, not sure if it's normal? Anyhow, it really woke up the wagon! EGT are excellent so there's still room for power...

Cheers,
Mr. D

[starfishpatrick]

Hi there guys and girls, Im also looking at winding up my pump but was told by a friend that once you turn it up you cant wind it back. Can someone please confirm this as I want to re-adjust it if needed. Thanks..

[Abitibi]

I'm not sure what your friend is talking about, maybe he's thinking of someone else 'cause it adjust both ways. CW more fuel, CCW less fuel...

Cheers
Mr. D

[starfishpatrick]

I'm not sure what your friend is talking about, maybe he's thinking of someone else 'cause it adjust both ways. CW more fuel, CCW less fuel...

Cheers
Mr. D

Sweet as Mr.D, Thanks for that .