GTurbo CT26 1HD-T 24psi 201hp @ wheels 35" Tyres

[RED60]

Here is a photo taken in 2006 on a trip around Australia.

This is a 1990 Jap import HDJ81 VX-Limited 1HD-T

Towed a van for 31,000kms in this tune, even ran it over Andy at Diesel Tec's dyno on the way around Oz.

Currently vehicle is owned by my Uncle, has done over 100,000 since this turbo which by the way, was my first high performance turbo for a Diesel, so Im kind of proud of that one :-)

This shot was taken in 4th overdrive at ~ 100km/h while I was chasing a friend in the van way up ahead, revs around 2000rpm

Lower gauge is inlet manifold pressure, upper gauge is exhaust manifold pressure and centre gauge is pyro pre turbo in Farenheit. To convert to degrees C, subtract 32 and multiply by 5/9. so was at 650 deg C.

It was July and we were driving to Karijini National Park from Exmouth. I towed the van up to Threadbo even, we went everywhere. Not a single engine drama and never has had any engine dramas, original engine and pump.

CT... what do you use as a gauge for EMP (brand/how does it read/how does it handle the heat) and is the pickup in the exhaust manifold, basically next to the pyro... sounds like these 1HDTs are the goods as far as Toyota are concerned...

[Hamo]

Here is a photo taken in 2006 on a trip around Australia.

This is a 1990 Jap import HDJ81 VX-Limited 1HD-T

Towed a van for 31,000kms in this tune, even ran it over Andy at Diesel Tec's dyno on the way around Oz.

Currently vehicle is owned by my Uncle, has done over 100,000 since this turbo which by the way, was my first high performance turbo for a Diesel, so Im kind of proud of that one :-)

This shot was taken in 4th overdrive at ~ 100km/h while I was chasing a friend in the van way up ahead, revs around 2000rpm

Lower gauge is inlet manifold pressure, upper gauge is exhaust manifold pressure and centre gauge is pyro pre turbo in Farenheit. To convert to degrees C, subtract 32 and multiply by 5/9. so was at 650 deg C.

It was July and we were driving to Karijini National Park from Exmouth. I towed the van up to Threadbo even, we went everywhere. Not a single engine drama and never has had any engine dramas, original engine and pump.

You need to edit this post agian the speedo only shows 80ks not 100ks

[SCANAS]

Looks like 100 to me. Just getting a bit of parralax error i think < Spelling

[CustomTurbos]

Looks like 100 to me. Just getting a bit of parralax error i think < Spelling

Yes, was close to 100. Speedo read 6.5% low according to GPS and I said approx (~) because the speed wasn't meant to be an important point. I had STD 4.1 diffs and new 33" tyres, 0.767 final ratio in trans and was in lockup.

None of that is that important to me at least..... I just wanted to show heavy load for extended periods as some sort of proof that I had done it. I did quite alot of testing, not so many folk measure EMP.

Regarding the gauges, they were pneumatic and Autometer. I tapped a hole in exhaust manifold and used a brake line curled around at 70mm dia about 200mm long and ensured no
leaks in system. This way the hose never got hot going to gauge.

At 1800 and 18psi, EMP was around 19psi! Entirely different spec turbo than anything I do now, but it was still very good.

Cheers, G

[TheBigBoy]

So what other block could you use if you don't think the stock block is up to the task?
Also why would you make a custom exhaust manifold when the standard one is doing the job?
I'm not sure if you would get 200hp out of a 1HDT at 18psi boost but I imagine if you tried to the AFR's would be through the roof and reliability would suffer.

I ment, its not just a standard bottom end.

Manifold - Open it up to get the heat out as fast as possible. And also gives some poor 1HZ driver somewhere reason to smile again .