Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
4BD1 To R380
Moderator: Micka
4BD1 To R380
Gday all,
Im new to this forum, though hope to have many good chats . Im hoping to make good use of the extensive knowledge ive viewed so far, so first up: ive got a 76 rangie, P76, R380, LT230, 1.4:1, ARB rear with fine spline axles, 2 inch suspension, 40mm body lift, stock length shocks, 265/75/16 tyres on stock disco steelies. Now a question : can I fit an Isuzu 4BD1 to my R380
Im new to this forum, though hope to have many good chats . Im hoping to make good use of the extensive knowledge ive viewed so far, so first up: ive got a 76 rangie, P76, R380, LT230, 1.4:1, ARB rear with fine spline axles, 2 inch suspension, 40mm body lift, stock length shocks, 265/75/16 tyres on stock disco steelies. Now a question : can I fit an Isuzu 4BD1 to my R380
Not sure of torque but power is usually 85bhp in trucks and military LR's(NA) and 99BHP in LR county (i.e. mine - see sig). They have plenty of torque, even NA. The turbo's (5psi) put out about 120-130bhp.
The 4BD1T has alfin pistons and an oil spray bar to spray il on the bottom of the pistons for cooling. Turboing a NA 4BD1 isn't hard because in a Land Rover they don't work nearly as hard as in a truck. The one I mentioned before has been fitted with an aftermarket turbo and has been going for years with no problems. I will turboing mine when I get back to Australia.
$1500 is pretty cheap if in good condition, if you don't want it PM me with the details and I will buy it (or if you can get 2). The only problem with the truck motor is the sump, flywheel and oil filter are different to the landrover version. And the starter and alternator will probably be 24V.
So - as well as getting a bellhousing made you need to:
Buy an upwards facing oil filter (downward facing interferes with the propshaft). Possibly modiy the sump (not sure) and the Land Rover sump holds an extra litre of oil (extends out on LHS of engine). Fit a 12V alternator and buy a 12V starter $$$ or fit a voltage converter for starting with the 24V starter.
If you can get hold of someone who is good at welding/machining up there they should be able to make you a bellhousing adaptor and do any flywheel machining required.
The 4BD1T has alfin pistons and an oil spray bar to spray il on the bottom of the pistons for cooling. Turboing a NA 4BD1 isn't hard because in a Land Rover they don't work nearly as hard as in a truck. The one I mentioned before has been fitted with an aftermarket turbo and has been going for years with no problems. I will turboing mine when I get back to Australia.
$1500 is pretty cheap if in good condition, if you don't want it PM me with the details and I will buy it (or if you can get 2). The only problem with the truck motor is the sump, flywheel and oil filter are different to the landrover version. And the starter and alternator will probably be 24V.
So - as well as getting a bellhousing made you need to:
Buy an upwards facing oil filter (downward facing interferes with the propshaft). Possibly modiy the sump (not sure) and the Land Rover sump holds an extra litre of oil (extends out on LHS of engine). Fit a 12V alternator and buy a 12V starter $$$ or fit a voltage converter for starting with the 24V starter.
If you can get hold of someone who is good at welding/machining up there they should be able to make you a bellhousing adaptor and do any flywheel machining required.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
I've got a 4bd1t out of an isuzu truck. Adding to what Ben said, I found the 24v starter on mine fouled the chassis with motor in normal rover position - but I'm not using rover transmission (6 speed isuzu and atlas) so I moved the motor closer to centre so it clears.
Also crank is different in the turbo motor, same size but journals are tufftrided. And I think (someone may correct this) the oil cooler has an extra section - because of the oil spray cooling of the pistons.
Also crank is different in the turbo motor, same size but journals are tufftrided. And I think (someone may correct this) the oil cooler has an extra section - because of the oil spray cooling of the pistons.
John
4BD1 to R380
Thanks fellas , good info
John, is your 6 speed the? standard box behind 4BD1T in trucks? what is that box called? how would it sit with LT230? is it very long
Anyone done a 6BD1 conversion?
John, is your 6 speed the? standard box behind 4BD1T in trucks? what is that box called? how would it sit with LT230? is it very long
Anyone done a 6BD1 conversion?
The 6 speed box was out of an Isuzu NQR. I had to use a different Isuzu bellhousing to mate to the 4BD1T, and modify it slightly to fit the gearbox. Also change the hub in the clutch plate for the larger input shaft (and 4BD1T clutch is a lot bigger than rover).
Comparing gears, bearings and shaft sizes, I would judge that it is stronger than an LT95. 1st gear is 5:1, 4th is 1:1, 5th and 6th are overdrive. I had to make an adaptor for a transfer case (not finished yet).
Bell housing and input shaft are shorter than those for rangies, but overall the box, with transfer adaptor is longer.
Comparing gears, bearings and shaft sizes, I would judge that it is stronger than an LT95. 1st gear is 5:1, 4th is 1:1, 5th and 6th are overdrive. I had to make an adaptor for a transfer case (not finished yet).
Bell housing and input shaft are shorter than those for rangies, but overall the box, with transfer adaptor is longer.
John
I can't recall figures at the moment, but 4BD1T has more power and torque than NA chev 6.5 diesel (I was going to put a 6.5 diesel in the bushie (hence name bush65) until I saw the light). With intercooler and some other tweaks should have ample of both.
The 6BD1T would be too long for rangie engine bay. I've never bothered to check power and torque figures for a 6BD1T, I think they would be a bit much for rover 10 spline axles
The 6BD1T would be too long for rangie engine bay. I've never bothered to check power and torque figures for a 6BD1T, I think they would be a bit much for rover 10 spline axles
John
300 would be about 50kg or so heavier but don't know for sure. They are both pretty good motors, but if anything the 200 is probably a bit better. No reported head warping problems like the 300 and fewer timing belt problems (as long as you keep the oil and water away from it). The 200 actually has a narrower belt than the 300 but a longer service interval - probably due to the better belt alignment.
I have driven a slightly tweaked 300Tdi and it was only about the same as my 4BD1 in acceleration until you got the turbo really spooled up. The 4BD1 has a lot better low down torque.
I have driven a slightly tweaked 300Tdi and it was only about the same as my 4BD1 in acceleration until you got the turbo really spooled up. The 4BD1 has a lot better low down torque.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Don't know exactly how heavy -was saying that the 300Tdi would probably be a bit heavier than the 200.
You would need the bellhousing and input shaft from a 300Tdi Disco to fit a 300Tdi to your RR. There may be some firewall clearance issues with the 300Tdi in a RR but not sure.
You would need the bellhousing and input shaft from a 300Tdi Disco to fit a 300Tdi to your RR. There may be some firewall clearance issues with the 300Tdi in a RR but not sure.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
The 300 makes more grunt stock than the 200, purely due to extra boost. (15.5 psi vs 12 psi)
Wind the boost up in the 200, and I believe they are much the same.
The last of the 300's ('97 on) seem to have the timing belt issues covered (says I crossing everything) as there was absolutely no wear on mine when last changed at 75 000km. Having said that, I'm taking no chances and changing it in 5 000km @ 135 000km.
The only thing that concerns me with these little 2.5 litre TDi engines is that I seem to be wringing its neck all the time just to get somewhere, unlike the TD 4.2 Patrol we have. So far it has been amazingly reliable, just oil and filter changes, but it's flat to the floor and a fist full of revs (no tacho, so don't really know) all the time.
Rick.
Wind the boost up in the 200, and I believe they are much the same.
The last of the 300's ('97 on) seem to have the timing belt issues covered (says I crossing everything) as there was absolutely no wear on mine when last changed at 75 000km. Having said that, I'm taking no chances and changing it in 5 000km @ 135 000km.
The only thing that concerns me with these little 2.5 litre TDi engines is that I seem to be wringing its neck all the time just to get somewhere, unlike the TD 4.2 Patrol we have. So far it has been amazingly reliable, just oil and filter changes, but it's flat to the floor and a fist full of revs (no tacho, so don't really know) all the time.
Rick.
300Tdi Defender 130 CC
My guess would be 200-250kg. The exact outputs are below. They can be increased a LOT though, and for free.
Land-Rover 200 TDi 83kW@4000rpm 198Nm@1800rpm
Land-Rover 300 TDi 84kW@4000rpm 265Nm@1800rpm
Land-Rover 200 TDi 83kW@4000rpm 198Nm@1800rpm
Land-Rover 300 TDi 84kW@4000rpm 265Nm@1800rpm
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
There is a lot of detailed stuff elsewhere on the web. If you go to the LRenthusiastforum and do a search on the Disco forum for 200Tdi performance increase (posted by a John Roberts or something likel that) the thread should still be there...
I have a few mates who worked it all out independently (many years ago)and did everything that the guy above did except fit a supra intercooler (the genuine one is fine).
But the gist of it is... you move the boost pressure sensor to the intake manifold (instead of the turbo housing) so it senses the actual pressure going into the motor.
Both engines are fitted with a Bosch VE type injector pump - there are about 3 different adjustments you can make on it to alter injector timing and fuelling - if you find the pages I mentioned above you can follow links to where you can you can download a manual and pictures showing what to adjust and by how much.
I have a few mates who worked it all out independently (many years ago)and did everything that the guy above did except fit a supra intercooler (the genuine one is fine).
But the gist of it is... you move the boost pressure sensor to the intake manifold (instead of the turbo housing) so it senses the actual pressure going into the motor.
Both engines are fitted with a Bosch VE type injector pump - there are about 3 different adjustments you can make on it to alter injector timing and fuelling - if you find the pages I mentioned above you can follow links to where you can you can download a manual and pictures showing what to adjust and by how much.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Steel, if you can't find the thread in the forum that Ben mentioned, send me a pm or email.
A lot of the timing belt issues in 300TDi is due to distortion occuring in the timing cover (near the aircon compressor) that causes the belt to track over to one side of the pulleys and fray the edge. As Rick said this was fixed in later engines. 200TDi had a different timing case.
A lot of the timing belt issues in 300TDi is due to distortion occuring in the timing cover (near the aircon compressor) that causes the belt to track over to one side of the pulleys and fray the edge. As Rick said this was fixed in later engines. 200TDi had a different timing case.
John
steel wrote:Thanks heaps Ben,
And how do they cope in the long run with this mod?
& what sort of increases?
I know 2 people that did this mod to 300Tdi powered 110's (one was converted to a Disco ZF auto as well). Both of the vehicles were mainly used as long distance touring vehicles on desert trips and the like - each weighted over 3.5tonne when fully laden for a desert trip.
Both vehicles clocked up approx 70000km with these mods with almost no problems before being sold. I say almost no problems, but one of them needed the cylinder head replaced - but this was almost certainly due to the bad batch of "soft" cylinder heads that seems to have been fitted to some of the last 300Tdi's, and not the engine mods.
The performance was very good, and even with the above loads in the desert the fuel consumption was 10-11l/100km in the manual and 11-13 in the auto.
I had a look for the thread I mentioned and cannot find it anymore. I printed a copy out for the Brisbane LR club a few years ago but don't have a copy myself any more. If someone has an emectronic copy they can send me that would be great.
_____________________________________________________________
RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests