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Hub overhall

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

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Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2004 7:25 am
Location: Brisbane - Mt Gravatt

Hub overhall

Post by little red »

I was going to give the front hubs of my 86 narrow track a overhaul, and was wondering if there are any nasty surprises that I should be looking for, as I have not done this before. My steering knuckles are leaking grease, my cv's are noisy at full lock, and one of my wheels is a bit wobbly (wobbles up and down, and side to side). I have been told that this is because the axle oil seal is leaking oil into the grease. My plans were to
1. Put in a Hub seal kit. Refil knuckle with grease
2. Replace the kingpin bearings and wheel bearings
3. Replace a noisy cv joint.

Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
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Location: Mont Albert, Melbourne

Post by isuzu110 »

Get a 110 ;-)
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Post by roadrunner »

isuzu110 wrote:Get a 110 ;-)


He's not looking for a boat anchor mate :? :finger: :D
[quote="barnsey"]smoked Elle McPherson, even though I didn't inhale[/quote]
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Post by bigsteve »

Whilst you have the hubs/knucles apart do the king pin bearings.

Things I have learnt:

~ Make sure you fold down the lock tabs
~ Try to avoid doing it in the rain on the morning of a trip
~ Make sure you fold down the lock tabs
yeshemesh
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Post by little red »

Thanks bigsteve. Just finished overhauling the hubs.... and yes, i did fold the lock tabs back. While repacking the cv's, I noticed that one of them had what looked like burn marks around the outside of each of the ball bearings(on the outer cup). Any idea's. This was the side that had the leaking axle oil seal. I am guessing that the grease that was mixed with oil did't perform as well as it should, and probably heated up a bit more. Also, any idea on whether the wheel bearing preload in the suzuki manual (the real one ) is correct. It said to put about 58 foot pounds of preload, then back of the first nut. I only didi about 35, and the wheels wern't spinning very easily.

A lesson for learner machanic like me. The order of bearings in the hub goes hub, race, bearing .... not hub, bearing, race. The wheel didnt spin so good with the second order. :lol:
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Post by markil »

hey lil' red,
how much did you pay for parts?
i gotta do the same on mine, been putting it off for a few months now and my drivaways gettign very stained :oops:
Mark.
Posts: 24
Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2004 7:25 am
Location: Brisbane - Mt Gravatt

Post by little red »

-Bearing Kit (2 bearings plus seal) - $65 per wheel.
-Hub seal kit (axle oil seal, felt, knuckle seal) - $48 per wheel.

I just repacked the king pin bearings, as they were ok. Also, a hint for fitting the knuckle seal. If you leave it in the sun for a couple of hours, you can stretch it over the ball (onces the knuckle is off), and you don't have to cut it as it suggests in the manual. I also just repacked the CV's, as I was told the cv's hardly ever go under the massive output of a stock 1.3
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Post by markil »

little red wrote:-Bearing Kit (2 bearings plus seal) - $65 per wheel.
-Hub seal kit (axle oil seal, felt, knuckle seal) - $48 per wheel.

I just repacked the king pin bearings, as they were ok. Also, a hint for fitting the knuckle seal. If you leave it in the sun for a couple of hours, you can stretch it over the ball (onces the knuckle is off), and you don't have to cut it as it suggests in the manual. I also just repacked the CV's, as I was told the cv's hardly ever go under the massive output of a stock 1.3


Thanks for that mate :)
Mark.
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Post by redzook »

little red wrote:Thanks bigsteve. Just finished overhauling the hubs.... and yes, i did fold the lock tabs back. While repacking the cv's, I noticed that one of them had what looked like burn marks around the outside of each of the ball bearings(on the outer cup). Any idea's. This was the side that had the leaking axle oil seal. I am guessing that the grease that was mixed with oil did't perform as well as it should, and probably heated up a bit more. Also, any idea on whether the wheel bearing preload in the suzuki manual (the real one ) is correct. It said to put about 58 foot pounds of preload, then back of the first nut. I only didi about 35, and the wheels wern't spinning very easily.

A lesson for learner machanic like me. The order of bearings in the hub goes hub, race, bearing .... not hub, bearing, race. The wheel didnt spin so good with the second order. :lol:


burn marks are normal
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Post by redzook »

little red wrote: I also just repacked the CV's, as I was told the cv's hardly ever go under the massive output of a stock 1.3
:lol: :lol:

if you got stock tires u maynot break one

but if u got 31's it shouldnt be to long :finger:
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Post by little red »

I have noticed since putting everything back together that it is a lot harder to turn the steering wheel. I put the same kingpin shims back in the same place that I took them off. Does this sound like a kingpin preload problem? Any other ideas?
Thanks again
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Guy
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Post by Guy »

little red wrote:I have noticed since putting everything back together that it is a lot harder to turn the steering wheel. I put the same kingpin shims back in the same place that I took them off. Does this sound like a kingpin preload problem? Any other ideas?
Thanks again


Your arms a tired from all the spanner spinning ... :D

Seriously

You may have to much preload on the kingpins ..
" If governments are involved in the covering up the knowledge of aliens, Then they are doing a much better job of it than they do of everything else "
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Joined: Wed Oct 06, 2004 7:25 am
Location: Brisbane - Mt Gravatt

Post by little red »

The old kingpin bearing preload. It gets you every time! I loosen off the kingpin bolts a little and the steering is back to being a little easier. Thanks everyone for your help! Little red is back in action and awaits the next adventure (and post adventure fix up). :D
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