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Hub overhall
Hub overhall
I was going to give the front hubs of my 86 narrow track a overhaul, and was wondering if there are any nasty surprises that I should be looking for, as I have not done this before. My steering knuckles are leaking grease, my cv's are noisy at full lock, and one of my wheels is a bit wobbly (wobbles up and down, and side to side). I have been told that this is because the axle oil seal is leaking oil into the grease. My plans were to
1. Put in a Hub seal kit. Refil knuckle with grease
2. Replace the kingpin bearings and wheel bearings
3. Replace a noisy cv joint.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
1. Put in a Hub seal kit. Refil knuckle with grease
2. Replace the kingpin bearings and wheel bearings
3. Replace a noisy cv joint.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks bigsteve. Just finished overhauling the hubs.... and yes, i did fold the lock tabs back. While repacking the cv's, I noticed that one of them had what looked like burn marks around the outside of each of the ball bearings(on the outer cup). Any idea's. This was the side that had the leaking axle oil seal. I am guessing that the grease that was mixed with oil did't perform as well as it should, and probably heated up a bit more. Also, any idea on whether the wheel bearing preload in the suzuki manual (the real one ) is correct. It said to put about 58 foot pounds of preload, then back of the first nut. I only didi about 35, and the wheels wern't spinning very easily.
A lesson for learner machanic like me. The order of bearings in the hub goes hub, race, bearing .... not hub, bearing, race. The wheel didnt spin so good with the second order.
A lesson for learner machanic like me. The order of bearings in the hub goes hub, race, bearing .... not hub, bearing, race. The wheel didnt spin so good with the second order.
-Bearing Kit (2 bearings plus seal) - $65 per wheel.
-Hub seal kit (axle oil seal, felt, knuckle seal) - $48 per wheel.
I just repacked the king pin bearings, as they were ok. Also, a hint for fitting the knuckle seal. If you leave it in the sun for a couple of hours, you can stretch it over the ball (onces the knuckle is off), and you don't have to cut it as it suggests in the manual. I also just repacked the CV's, as I was told the cv's hardly ever go under the massive output of a stock 1.3
-Hub seal kit (axle oil seal, felt, knuckle seal) - $48 per wheel.
I just repacked the king pin bearings, as they were ok. Also, a hint for fitting the knuckle seal. If you leave it in the sun for a couple of hours, you can stretch it over the ball (onces the knuckle is off), and you don't have to cut it as it suggests in the manual. I also just repacked the CV's, as I was told the cv's hardly ever go under the massive output of a stock 1.3
little red wrote:-Bearing Kit (2 bearings plus seal) - $65 per wheel.
-Hub seal kit (axle oil seal, felt, knuckle seal) - $48 per wheel.
I just repacked the king pin bearings, as they were ok. Also, a hint for fitting the knuckle seal. If you leave it in the sun for a couple of hours, you can stretch it over the ball (onces the knuckle is off), and you don't have to cut it as it suggests in the manual. I also just repacked the CV's, as I was told the cv's hardly ever go under the massive output of a stock 1.3
Thanks for that mate
Mark.
little red wrote:Thanks bigsteve. Just finished overhauling the hubs.... and yes, i did fold the lock tabs back. While repacking the cv's, I noticed that one of them had what looked like burn marks around the outside of each of the ball bearings(on the outer cup). Any idea's. This was the side that had the leaking axle oil seal. I am guessing that the grease that was mixed with oil did't perform as well as it should, and probably heated up a bit more. Also, any idea on whether the wheel bearing preload in the suzuki manual (the real one ) is correct. It said to put about 58 foot pounds of preload, then back of the first nut. I only didi about 35, and the wheels wern't spinning very easily.
A lesson for learner machanic like me. The order of bearings in the hub goes hub, race, bearing .... not hub, bearing, race. The wheel didnt spin so good with the second order.
burn marks are normal
little red wrote:I have noticed since putting everything back together that it is a lot harder to turn the steering wheel. I put the same kingpin shims back in the same place that I took them off. Does this sound like a kingpin preload problem? Any other ideas?
Thanks again
Your arms a tired from all the spanner spinning ...
Seriously
You may have to much preload on the kingpins ..
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