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P76 help need ASAP
Moderator: Micka
P76 help need ASAP
G'day all,
got the P76 in my car but have some issue with starting. The motor seems to be locking up when trying to start, but then it frees up completely and and will start (haven't had it started long enough to tune it so it doesn't idle either). The starter motor is a RR unit and it has now died I believe due to too much cranking today. I have my old one (which is about 18 months old), I remember reading something about these when fitted to P76's, anyone remember what? I noticed this arvo that the RR starter motor stays constantly enguaged with flywheel by about 10mm. so I was just going to space it out.
Is it possible it was just the starter motor that was making the motor look like it was locking up and freeing up? or is it likely to be more serious.
motor wasn't rebuilt but it was running when i bought it, I saw it running, but has been sitting in upright postion for 6 months.
any thoughts will be muchly appreciated.
got the P76 in my car but have some issue with starting. The motor seems to be locking up when trying to start, but then it frees up completely and and will start (haven't had it started long enough to tune it so it doesn't idle either). The starter motor is a RR unit and it has now died I believe due to too much cranking today. I have my old one (which is about 18 months old), I remember reading something about these when fitted to P76's, anyone remember what? I noticed this arvo that the RR starter motor stays constantly enguaged with flywheel by about 10mm. so I was just going to space it out.
Is it possible it was just the starter motor that was making the motor look like it was locking up and freeing up? or is it likely to be more serious.
motor wasn't rebuilt but it was running when i bought it, I saw it running, but has been sitting in upright postion for 6 months.
any thoughts will be muchly appreciated.
[i]DAS[/i]
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
p76 HELP NEEDED ASAP
Over advanced ignition timing will give that symptom,will also effect the idle.
"What !!!!! Not another bloody Landrover"
Re: p76 HELP NEEDED ASAP
LowRanger wrote:Over advanced ignition timing will give that symptom,will also effect the idle.
Agree ,
I'm was thinking that. But i would have to be a whole tooth out on the dizzy. I will play around some more tomorrow
starter is the biggest problem at the moment
As for spacer I can make one up tomorrow too
any other idea's ??
starter is the biggest problem at the moment
As for spacer I can make one up tomorrow too
any other idea's ??
[i]DAS[/i]
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
I'd start by doing a static timing.
That way you can eliminate that.
As for the starter motor, there is thread about this somewhere.
A quick search found:
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=19405
My 4.4 has a Lucas M45 Rangie starter with no spacers.
The previous thread was about starters breaking with no spacers.
From what I gather, that was a Lucas 3M100PE starter.
That way you can eliminate that.
As for the starter motor, there is thread about this somewhere.
A quick search found:
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=19405
My 4.4 has a Lucas M45 Rangie starter with no spacers.
The previous thread was about starters breaking with no spacers.
From what I gather, that was a Lucas 3M100PE starter.
Harry
79 Rangie (his name is Ralf) 4.4 dual fuel, with plenty of other mods.
Oils leaks are a factory option to prevent rust!
79 Rangie (his name is Ralf) 4.4 dual fuel, with plenty of other mods.
Oils leaks are a factory option to prevent rust!
Bodge here on Ct's login...
DAS I wouldn't shag around with the Rover starters which are not that hot to begin with. I picked up a brand new gear reduction starter for a P76 here in NZ for $200 after messing around with several bodged versions. Turns the motor twice as fast and bolts up in about 3 minutes - no adaptors spacers etc. Best $200 I ever spent on the old cow.
I have an original P76 starter here that still goes if you are keen to stuff around with it but I think it needs a new solenoid...
While you are down there check the earthing of the starter - needs to be really good and is cheap to replace - half my problems initially were due to dodgy bits of 70's braided earth straps...
g'luck
Bodge
DAS I wouldn't shag around with the Rover starters which are not that hot to begin with. I picked up a brand new gear reduction starter for a P76 here in NZ for $200 after messing around with several bodged versions. Turns the motor twice as fast and bolts up in about 3 minutes - no adaptors spacers etc. Best $200 I ever spent on the old cow.
I have an original P76 starter here that still goes if you are keen to stuff around with it but I think it needs a new solenoid...
While you are down there check the earthing of the starter - needs to be really good and is cheap to replace - half my problems initially were due to dodgy bits of 70's braided earth straps...
g'luck
Bodge
ct
You should always prime a new motor. The oil pump drive connects onto the bottom of the distributor. You pull out the distributor and make a shaft that fits on top of the oil pump dive. You connect a electric drill to the shaft and turn over the oil pump for a couple of minutes after you get oil pressure (the drill will slow down a bits when you start to get pressure). If you do not get oil pressure, you can then pull the oil pump apart and fill in it with petroleum jelly and then repeat the priming process.
it had oil pressure to begin with
but must have been bugger all as there isn't as much oil inside as there should. Still don't know what siezed. pulled all main bearing caps off and they are all good. must be a piston siezed. I got it to move abit, but still not sure.
I did notice that there were no thrust bearings at all on the crank. no bits of metal or anything floating around so I can only assume they were never there. These motors do run thrust bearings don't they?
but must have been bugger all as there isn't as much oil inside as there should. Still don't know what siezed. pulled all main bearing caps off and they are all good. must be a piston siezed. I got it to move abit, but still not sure.
I did notice that there were no thrust bearings at all on the crank. no bits of metal or anything floating around so I can only assume they were never there. These motors do run thrust bearings don't they?
[i]DAS[/i]
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
Some Rover (so maybe P76) bearing kits have only one main bearing shell with a thrust washer. IE it is only on the top half of the bearing. Have a look into the top half where the thrust face is on the crank. They seem to run fine with a crank that can swing back and forth by up to 100 thou.
regards Philip A
regards Philip A
If the motor is sitting for a while - sometimes the hydrolic lifters won't pump back up and therefore wont work properly. Had this problem with the 4.4 before
I run a ring spacer around the 3.5 starter - easy to do - ended up machining the top of a piston and then dowling it to suit.
Timing - I find my 4.4 will idle at major advances and retards - just wont rev - Unless the timing is so far out I would not expect this.
Also agree with the Vaso in the oil pump - only major prob with these motors is they run on nearly no oil pressure - I run an upgrade sandwich block to increase the oil pressure to measurable amounts.
Good luck and hope the new motor is not the only option.
G
I run a ring spacer around the 3.5 starter - easy to do - ended up machining the top of a piston and then dowling it to suit.
Timing - I find my 4.4 will idle at major advances and retards - just wont rev - Unless the timing is so far out I would not expect this.
Also agree with the Vaso in the oil pump - only major prob with these motors is they run on nearly no oil pressure - I run an upgrade sandwich block to increase the oil pressure to measurable amounts.
Good luck and hope the new motor is not the only option.
G
grungle99 wrote:IAlso agree with the Vaso in the oil pump - only major prob with these motors is they run on nearly no oil pressure - I run an upgrade sandwich block to increase the oil pressure to measurable amounts
I don't know what a sandwich block is, but my 79 4.4 has 300KPa at 60KM/h.
Harry
79 Rangie (his name is Ralf) 4.4 dual fuel, with plenty of other mods.
Oils leaks are a factory option to prevent rust!
79 Rangie (his name is Ralf) 4.4 dual fuel, with plenty of other mods.
Oils leaks are a factory option to prevent rust!
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