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Changing a CV boot on a 97 Rodeo???

Tech talk for GMH/Isuzu and Great Wall owners

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Changing a CV boot on a 97 Rodeo???

Post by Utemad »

Can anyone tell me what is involved with changing the rubber CV boot on the drivers side. I have a tear in the inner CV boot.

I've never played with CV's before.

I got quoted $15 for the inner and another $15 for the outer from Autobarn

Thanks.
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Post by rainsey »

Utemad,

If you like, PM me your email and I will send you a couple of pages printed out of the TF Rodeo Service manual CD. I tried to post them on the forum but PDF files are not allowed (or at least thats the response I got).

They are typical lame service manual diagrams but may point you in the right direction.

Cheers

Rainsey
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Post by Utemad »

PM sent. Like I mentioned in the PM I have a Rodeo workshop CD that does not work anymore. It used to but now I get an error message that says:

16 Bit Windows Subsystem
C:\Windows\System32\Autoexec.NT
The system file is not suitable for running MS-DOS and Microsoft Windows applications. Choose close to terminate the application.

Anyone know what the hell that means?
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Post by Westoztroopa »

This should be what you're after...

http://www.4x4wire.com/isuzu/tech/CVboots/?

Cheers,

Noel
1992 3.2L V6 SWB Holden Jackaroo
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Post by Westoztroopa »

1992 3.2L V6 SWB Holden Jackaroo
2008 3.0L TD Holden Rodeo S/cab Trayback
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Post by Utemad »

Thanks Westoz.

I tried Planetisuzoo this afternoon but the site was doing weird things at the time.

That 4x4wire HowTo is fantastic though. I'll be trying that out on Friday.
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Post by Westoztroopa »

No worries mate. Hope it all goes well.

Noel
1992 3.2L V6 SWB Holden Jackaroo
2008 3.0L TD Holden Rodeo S/cab Trayback
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Post by Utemad »

Got my CV boots today so it's all happening tomorrow. Hopefully it all goes well and I can get back to organising my bodylift :cool:
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Post by Utemad »

Replaced the CV boots this morning :cool:

Took me exactly 3 hours however I can see that it could be shortened. For example it took me 45mins just to get the upper ball joint off the upper control arm :bad-words:

It is very straight forward and I would recommend to anyone that you can do it yourself. The only CV I have ever seen before is on the internet and I managed it. The only problems I had other than chasing the steel balls down the driveway numerous times :lol: was doing up those steel band things that hold the boots on. I managed to stuff the one that holds the inner boot to the diff housing so that is held on by a zip tie atm. The one on the brake end is not so flash either but is on all the same. I'll get two more bands and fix them before I go 4bying next. If you are tightening them with cutters or pliers then I reckon (after I busted two) that the best way is to push against the clippy bit with a screwdriver and pull the tab with pliers or cutters. You'll know what I mean when you see the band clamps.

The only thing I did differently to the 4x4wire HowTo was to undo the top nut holding the shock absorber in and then moved the shock out of the way. I would have removed it all together had I been able to undo the lower bolt.

All in all it was a fairly easy job

Give it a go.
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Post by rainsey »

Doh...

O/K... im next at doing this. Just has the suspension upgraded and noticed my driverside boot is ripped in two.

One thing that I have learn't over the years.... cable ties are your best friend... it is amazing what you can hold together with them... including a CV boot after breaking the steel clamp.

Might only be short term but I carry a load of them in my under rear seat storage compartment ( raised my rear seats so the kids did not feel like midgets) for times like this.

I'll take your advice on board.

Cheers

Rainsey
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Post by Utemad »

rainsey wrote:One thing that I have learn't over the years.... cable ties are your best friend...


Zip ties rule!!! On my ute I have the front licence plate, inner CV boot, rear canopy brake light, trailer light socket, fridge power socket and of course kms of wiring all held on with zip ties. Of course it's temporary :lol:

rainsey wrote:under rear seat storage compartment ( raised my rear seats so the kids did not feel like midgets) for times like this.


I was thinking about cutting a big hole under the rear passenger bench seat to make a storage compartment like the existing one for the jack. Seems to be a fair bit of wasted space under there. Also trying to make the rear seat tilt forward like on newer versions. Too hard to adapt a later model backrest though. Shouldn't be too difficult to modify the existing backrest.
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Post by rainsey »

I was originally looking at doing the same but the diesel fule tank is sitting right underneath!

I made a wooden frame that sits between the metal body and the seat. It has a double use, I have a boot load of storage for spare radiator hoses, filters and general bits & pieces (like cable ties), plus the kids can not sit normally without their legs wrapped up. Makes it heaps more comfortable on a long trip.

The back part of the seat I raised by drilling out the spot welded brackets and raising them the height of the wooden base. And extended the lower bolt holes by fabricating some steel extentions.

Works a treat... I'll take some photos and put them up for you to see.

Cheers

Rainesy
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Post by Vulcanised »

it would probably be a good idea to replace the balljoints at the same time.... an extra cost i know, but easier to do while you have half the front end in bits. in case you are interested, i payed $520 for brand new CV's and axles and boots all assembled......
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Post by Utemad »

I only did the drivers side but that ball joint looked ok to me. I thought of replacing it anyway but thought it didn't need to be yet.

Rainsey,

Pics of your rear seat would be great but we should probably start another thread for that. I'm investigating the fold forward option again. Hopefully start on it this weekend.

Thanks.
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Post by rainsey »

Yep, another thread is cool.

Tried taking photoes but my wide angle just isn't wide enough to get inside my cabin :?:

Stay in touch as I will set up a new thread once I can get a decent photo

Cheers

Rainsey
Posts: 1570
Joined: Mon Aug 02, 2004 9:38 am
Location: Dalby

Post by Utemad »

Here are some exciting CV boot changing pics

The damaged boot
Image

Cut off the damaged boot
Image

Removed the circlip, balls and holder thingo
Image

The thingos
Image

The finished product. Notice the zip tie on the inner boot and the near buggered steel clamp on the outer boot.
Image
Land Rover Discovery series 1 V8
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