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buying a GQ

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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Post by Cheezy4x4 »

I have the info at work, I will look it up tommorow.
NOW ABLE TOO SAY WHAT I WANT WITHOUT FEAR OF LOOSING SALES.
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Post by big red »

my GQ was a 6/89 series 1 with the steering stabiliser that connected to the chassis . It also had the weak diff housings, mine cracked 14 times on corrugated roads, we used to pull up at the end of the day, set up camp, put the billy on, weld up the diffs, make dinner etc etc.
it also cracked the firewall to floor joins but even though i live close to the sea [my toyota rusted badly] i didn't get any rust in nearly five years.
shane
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Post by A1 »

wen did they change from these weak housins ???


mines a 90 not sure wat month ............havent poped the bonnet let alone started it in a while :cry:
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Post by bogged »

Cheezy4x4 wrote:I have the info at work, I will look it up tommorow.

Gonna look them MTR and Xterrain prices too... adn the air kit thing for incab ;)
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Post by big red »

not real sure when the better housing came out but late 91 seems safe and ive only seen it on wagons with the tailights on the body.
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Post by N*A*M »

oh man, i don't wanna wait until 2006!

where does it crack? can it be trussed?
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Post by Wendle »

big red wrote:my GQ was a 6/89 series 1 with the steering stabiliser that connected to the chassis .


That seems to be the thing to look for. Mine is 10/89, damper goes from the draglink to the panhard. Look a bit closer and there is a few more gussets here and there on the chassis, a few more sandwich plates on the body....
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Post by big red »

most of the cracks were on the triangle fill in piece beside the diff pumpkin,
usually on the bottom weld but if you got to it early enough [check every day on those trips] it didn't spread more than 3 inches, never had to add oil.
I could pound it over hard tracks all year without any problems but as soon as i hit a couple of hours of corrugations it started.
In my opinion it was due to highloads and the pumpkin moving up and down in relation to the housing ends so bracing should fix it.
BTW it cracked with 3 different suspension set ups and a couple of club members had standard suspensions and it happened to them on corrugated roads as well.
But seeing as the ball bends on jumps it may be wise to brace them anyway.
shane
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Post by Cheezy4x4 »

8th month 89. Was that 2006 directed at me. :?:
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Post by bj on roids »

it is the 15 year thing cheezy

although a 2006 safari delivery when ordered today would be inline with industry standards
hands and mums dont count!!!
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Post by N*A*M »

by 2006, safaris will be IFS :roll:
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Post by CRUSHU »

after all this talk, i still havn't found a gq that i want, but i will prefer a lwb wagon
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Post by Ryan »

if the petrol/gas motors crack heads, is there a way to fix the problem??
Note: without an engine conversion

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Post by CRUSHU »

i got one :D stocky, 4.2 auto duel fuel. rear locker, fairly standard.
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Post by bogged »

Ryan wrote:if the petrol/gas motors crack heads, is there a way to fix the problem??
Note: without an engine conversion

Cheers
Ryan


Gee Ryan, if only you waited 3 more days you wouldnt have to worry

An 88 Mav TD42 295k
Dark blue with tinted windows
5sp
P/Steer A/Cond
snorkle,
alloy bar alloy side steps,
31x 10 all terrains,

11months rego and RWC asking $13500.


Its in VGC and is one up from the base model ie carpets on the floor and wind
up windows etc etc.
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Post by Ryan »

mines better than that one bruc..... err bogged :)
rear arb with compressor
elec windows and sunroof
10stacker CD
tinted windows
central locking
alarm
11 months rego
dual fuel

4inch lift with rancho 9012s as of next week :D


Cheers
Ryan
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Post by bogged »

Ryan wrote:mines better than that one bruc..... err bogged :)
dual fuel


but its still not what you wanted.. you wanted diesel :P
always happens though, you give up and something comes up....
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