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buying a GQ
my GQ was a 6/89 series 1 with the steering stabiliser that connected to the chassis . It also had the weak diff housings, mine cracked 14 times on corrugated roads, we used to pull up at the end of the day, set up camp, put the billy on, weld up the diffs, make dinner etc etc.
it also cracked the firewall to floor joins but even though i live close to the sea [my toyota rusted badly] i didn't get any rust in nearly five years.
shane
it also cracked the firewall to floor joins but even though i live close to the sea [my toyota rusted badly] i didn't get any rust in nearly five years.
shane
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big red wrote:my GQ was a 6/89 series 1 with the steering stabiliser that connected to the chassis .
That seems to be the thing to look for. Mine is 10/89, damper goes from the draglink to the panhard. Look a bit closer and there is a few more gussets here and there on the chassis, a few more sandwich plates on the body....
most of the cracks were on the triangle fill in piece beside the diff pumpkin,
usually on the bottom weld but if you got to it early enough [check every day on those trips] it didn't spread more than 3 inches, never had to add oil.
I could pound it over hard tracks all year without any problems but as soon as i hit a couple of hours of corrugations it started.
In my opinion it was due to highloads and the pumpkin moving up and down in relation to the housing ends so bracing should fix it.
BTW it cracked with 3 different suspension set ups and a couple of club members had standard suspensions and it happened to them on corrugated roads as well.
But seeing as the ball bends on jumps it may be wise to brace them anyway.
shane
usually on the bottom weld but if you got to it early enough [check every day on those trips] it didn't spread more than 3 inches, never had to add oil.
I could pound it over hard tracks all year without any problems but as soon as i hit a couple of hours of corrugations it started.
In my opinion it was due to highloads and the pumpkin moving up and down in relation to the housing ends so bracing should fix it.
BTW it cracked with 3 different suspension set ups and a couple of club members had standard suspensions and it happened to them on corrugated roads as well.
But seeing as the ball bends on jumps it may be wise to brace them anyway.
shane
[url=http://bigred.redbubble.com/][color=red][b]You can follow me but its gunna hurt ![/b][/color][/url]
event pics http://bigred.redbubble.com/
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Ryan wrote:if the petrol/gas motors crack heads, is there a way to fix the problem??
Note: without an engine conversion
Cheers
Ryan
Gee Ryan, if only you waited 3 more days you wouldnt have to worry
An 88 Mav TD42 295k
Dark blue with tinted windows
5sp
P/Steer A/Cond
snorkle,
alloy bar alloy side steps,
31x 10 all terrains,
11months rego and RWC asking $13500.
Its in VGC and is one up from the base model ie carpets on the floor and wind
up windows etc etc.
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