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how much is a fuel pump

Tech Talk for Mitsubishi owners.

Moderator: -Scott-

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how much is a fuel pump

Post by twinnie »

80kph "putt putt putt" said the car, "oh bugger" said matt

"we'll be there in an hour" said the nrma

"it's ya fuel pump" said the nrma dude

"i could have told you that" thaught matt

"the tow truck will be there in an hour" said the nrma dude

"why not fix it your self" said the tow truck dude

"can't be too hard" said matt

and here i am now, is it worth getting a service manule for this and does the pajero (nh 3000 v6) have an in tank pump?

Matt
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Post by -Scott- »

Yes, I believe all the 3.0 V6 have an in-tank pump. I think you can also get to it through a panel in the floor, so you don't have to drop the tank. As for fixing it, NFI!

And definitely get a manual for it. I have the Gregory's, which has a few gaps in it, but it still has heaps of useful information - like the fact that the power mirrors are supplied via the "cigar" fuse in the fuse box... :x

Scott
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Post by twinnie »

cool thanks i found the hole in the floor, now i need to get the gregorys :)

Matt
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Post by J Top »

My 3000 V6 pump is above the rear diff on the left side of the driveshaft, that's the main pump, some systems have a primer pump in the tank
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Post by GREGGO »

Had the tank out of mine not long ago. The fuel pump was easily removed and easy to replace from memory. The tank wasn't even that bad to remove.
Shorty Gen2, lots of stuff and more to come!
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Post by Loco »

Bosch make a replacement one for the 3000V6, got a price of around $600plus by memory from mitsi, specialist told me which one to go get, trade
Company is Petroject SA (petrojectsa@internode.on.net) they should be able to push you in right direction locally, their part No. 10013 $184 +gst
NF 3.0 BLK, 2.5" suspension (HD T bars, prog coils, TJM Bullbar, 31X10.5X15 Mickey T FCII & cent locking
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Post by twinnie »

ooooh $184 is far better then any thing elce i have found i'll have to have a look thanks

i have the gregrys (onsale at supercheap $15 off) and thats always good

:lol:

Matt
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Post by J Top »

sorry, shows how long since I was under mine, I was confusing the pump with the filter,
J Top
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Post by twinnie »

no worrys jtop,

grrr i was hoping i wouldn't have to drop the tank (it's 3/4 full) but the suply hose is on way too tight and i'll have to undo it further along. and i'm not even sure i can get the nuts the hold the pump in off with it on, so off to get some buckets/jerry cans/ another fuel tank? is it worth getting a trolly jack and some stands ($200 worth) ?

Matt
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Post by Loco »

twinnie wrote:no worrys jtop,

grrr i was hoping i wouldn't have to drop the tank (it's 3/4 full) but the suply hose is on way too tight and i'll have to undo it further along. and i'm not even sure i can get the nuts the hold the pump in off with it on, so off to get some buckets/jerry cans/ another fuel tank? is it worth getting a trolly jack and some stands ($200 worth) ?

Matt

Ok, first, once you have removed the access hatch, get in there with a hose with shutoff nozzle, give the top of the tank a wash/ squirt down so that grit won't enter the tank
second. crack the filler lid off to release internal pressure (temp affected) leave the lid undone til the job is finished.
third. get under the car and crack the fuel line on the flexy hose where it joins the hard,ine at the body just in front of diff
fourth. return to the inside of vehicle and slide the return hose (spring clipped) off the out/return fitting on the pump assembly
fifth. remove the elec connection, undo the 6 (10mm) nuts fastening it into tank, give the assembly a good tug, should break the rubber seal, take care not to push or drop grit into the tank at this time, gently pull it out ,
then go ahead removing the pump and filter off the bracket, fit new and reverse it all, just don't drop grit in there
NF 3.0 BLK, 2.5" suspension (HD T bars, prog coils, TJM Bullbar, 31X10.5X15 Mickey T FCII & cent locking
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Post by twinnie »

awesome that just the sort of thing i was after i'll redoo some of the nuts i have done and give the top of the tank a good scrub, i'm also going to get a jerry can and a pump to tranfer the fuel i have into the familys other cars so thats todays job (it's a slow process this). the gregorys is good but i does have holes and some of them are easy to figure out while others arn't. but keep the advice rolling in this will be a good reference thread.

Matt :)

edit: both the fuel suply conections are stuck fast so i'll have to drop the tank and leave the pump asembly in place.
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Post by Loco »

twinnie wrote:
edit: both the fuel suply conections are stuck fast so i'll have to drop the tank and leave the pump asembly in place.


Should be able to free the flexy hose nuts, place the two spanners (correct sized) as close as you can together to get a small amount of movement first, and squeeze them together in your palms, rather than using one hand for each spanner, if you get them close together you can 'sqeeze' with the strength of both hands
the return hose move clip down off the pipe (underneath) 'til it's clear of the pipe, then get a fine screwdriver and gently insert between hose and pipe and slide it in a bit to break the vulcanising of the rubber, you should be able to get a bit of stretch in it this way and slide it off


You can leave fuel in tank as long as you lossen the filler cap, iff you don't release the pressure, it will siphon itself out whilst you are trying to undo everything

nb. you will get a little loss as you crack the high pressure line but as long as the filler cap is loose it will shortly stop
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Post by Zute »

Twinne, Give me a ring if you need anything. 0409910884.
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Experience is something you don't get, until just after you need it.
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Post by -Scott- »

Loco wrote:
twinnie wrote:
edit: both the fuel suply conections are stuck fast so i'll have to drop the tank and leave the pump asembly in place.


Should be able to free the flexy hose nuts, place the two spanners (correct sized) as close as you can together to get a small amount of movement first, and squeeze them together in your palms, rather than using one hand for each spanner, if you get them close together you can 'sqeeze' with the strength of both hands
the return hose move clip down off the pipe (underneath) 'til it's clear of the pipe, then get a fine screwdriver and gently insert between hose and pipe and slide it in a bit to break the vulcanising of the rubber, you should be able to get a bit of stretch in it this way and slide it off


You can leave fuel in tank as long as you lossen the filler cap, iff you don't release the pressure, it will siphon itself out whilst you are trying to undo everything

nb. you will get a little loss as you crack the high pressure line but as long as the filler cap is loose it will shortly stop


The Gregory's manual takes you through a short procedure to release the pressure in the line. Worked for me. :D
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Post by twinnie »

thanks guys you all rule! :armsup:

i'll see how i go zute, you might get a call tomorrow :roll:

i have tryed every trick (including the ones here(thanks nj)) to get this suply line off but it's not happening i think some one has tryed to do it before and rooted the nuts, i also don't want to bend the high presure pipe, which i have done a little trying to get this damed thing off.

as for depresurising the system there is no presure left at all, and the return hose is off i am going to clean the top of the tank thoughly to stop dirt getting in (thanks loco)

i'll take pics tomorrow to show you how it goes :roll:

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Post by twinnie »

a break though!

the tank is half hanging off, and i have managed to get the fuel suply hose conector lose but it just twists the hose when you try and get it off are you ment to take both ends off?

also taking the tank out means i have another stuck nut to contend with.

i think i'll have to stop for the day i'm feeling the efects of sniffing petrol all day.

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Post by Loco »

the end next to the hard line that runs along the body to the front should be a compression fitting (it swivels)

You should be fitting one spanner to the welded fitting (nut) on the hardline to stop the pipe twisting and the other spanner to the fitting right next to that (very end of hose) it should swivel once you have cracked the compression, maybe the compression fitting is rusted together

if you have cracked the seal. put a vise grip next to the spanner on the end of hose and grip the crimp there to give the fitting on end of hose a half a two to free it up


Hey you can only stuff it completely and go sulk in a corner afterwards, or you can succeed and be proud of the accomplishment at the end of a day,
:)
NF 3.0 BLK, 2.5" suspension (HD T bars, prog coils, TJM Bullbar, 31X10.5X15 Mickey T FCII & cent locking
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Post by twinnie »

ok, well it's a job for tomorrow :P the fumes gave me a head ache. so not both ends of the hose swivle then? and the end that does is a cow to get to ... half my luck oh well.

Matt
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Joined: Tue Feb 01, 2005 4:26 pm
Location: Adelaide, Australia

Post by Loco »

the end you need to get to should be right above the rear universal joint to the passenger side, not the end next to the tank, should be as simple as lying on you back, stopping dreaming of how high you can lift it and turn the fitting off ;)
NF 3.0 BLK, 2.5" suspension (HD T bars, prog coils, TJM Bullbar, 31X10.5X15 Mickey T FCII & cent locking
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