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how much is a fuel pump
Moderator: -Scott-
how much is a fuel pump
80kph "putt putt putt" said the car, "oh bugger" said matt
"we'll be there in an hour" said the nrma
"it's ya fuel pump" said the nrma dude
"i could have told you that" thaught matt
"the tow truck will be there in an hour" said the nrma dude
"why not fix it your self" said the tow truck dude
"can't be too hard" said matt
and here i am now, is it worth getting a service manule for this and does the pajero (nh 3000 v6) have an in tank pump?
Matt
"we'll be there in an hour" said the nrma
"it's ya fuel pump" said the nrma dude
"i could have told you that" thaught matt
"the tow truck will be there in an hour" said the nrma dude
"why not fix it your self" said the tow truck dude
"can't be too hard" said matt
and here i am now, is it worth getting a service manule for this and does the pajero (nh 3000 v6) have an in tank pump?
Matt
Yes, I believe all the 3.0 V6 have an in-tank pump. I think you can also get to it through a panel in the floor, so you don't have to drop the tank. As for fixing it, NFI!
And definitely get a manual for it. I have the Gregory's, which has a few gaps in it, but it still has heaps of useful information - like the fact that the power mirrors are supplied via the "cigar" fuse in the fuse box...
Scott
And definitely get a manual for it. I have the Gregory's, which has a few gaps in it, but it still has heaps of useful information - like the fact that the power mirrors are supplied via the "cigar" fuse in the fuse box...
Scott
Bosch make a replacement one for the 3000V6, got a price of around $600plus by memory from mitsi, specialist told me which one to go get, trade
Company is Petroject SA (petrojectsa@internode.on.net) they should be able to push you in right direction locally, their part No. 10013 $184 +gst
Company is Petroject SA (petrojectsa@internode.on.net) they should be able to push you in right direction locally, their part No. 10013 $184 +gst
NF 3.0 BLK, 2.5" suspension (HD T bars, prog coils, TJM Bullbar, 31X10.5X15 Mickey T FCII & cent locking
no worrys jtop,
grrr i was hoping i wouldn't have to drop the tank (it's 3/4 full) but the suply hose is on way too tight and i'll have to undo it further along. and i'm not even sure i can get the nuts the hold the pump in off with it on, so off to get some buckets/jerry cans/ another fuel tank? is it worth getting a trolly jack and some stands ($200 worth) ?
Matt
grrr i was hoping i wouldn't have to drop the tank (it's 3/4 full) but the suply hose is on way too tight and i'll have to undo it further along. and i'm not even sure i can get the nuts the hold the pump in off with it on, so off to get some buckets/jerry cans/ another fuel tank? is it worth getting a trolly jack and some stands ($200 worth) ?
Matt
twinnie wrote:no worrys jtop,
grrr i was hoping i wouldn't have to drop the tank (it's 3/4 full) but the suply hose is on way too tight and i'll have to undo it further along. and i'm not even sure i can get the nuts the hold the pump in off with it on, so off to get some buckets/jerry cans/ another fuel tank? is it worth getting a trolly jack and some stands ($200 worth) ?
Matt
Ok, first, once you have removed the access hatch, get in there with a hose with shutoff nozzle, give the top of the tank a wash/ squirt down so that grit won't enter the tank
second. crack the filler lid off to release internal pressure (temp affected) leave the lid undone til the job is finished.
third. get under the car and crack the fuel line on the flexy hose where it joins the hard,ine at the body just in front of diff
fourth. return to the inside of vehicle and slide the return hose (spring clipped) off the out/return fitting on the pump assembly
fifth. remove the elec connection, undo the 6 (10mm) nuts fastening it into tank, give the assembly a good tug, should break the rubber seal, take care not to push or drop grit into the tank at this time, gently pull it out ,
then go ahead removing the pump and filter off the bracket, fit new and reverse it all, just don't drop grit in there
NF 3.0 BLK, 2.5" suspension (HD T bars, prog coils, TJM Bullbar, 31X10.5X15 Mickey T FCII & cent locking
awesome that just the sort of thing i was after i'll redoo some of the nuts i have done and give the top of the tank a good scrub, i'm also going to get a jerry can and a pump to tranfer the fuel i have into the familys other cars so thats todays job (it's a slow process this). the gregorys is good but i does have holes and some of them are easy to figure out while others arn't. but keep the advice rolling in this will be a good reference thread.
Matt
edit: both the fuel suply conections are stuck fast so i'll have to drop the tank and leave the pump asembly in place.
Matt
edit: both the fuel suply conections are stuck fast so i'll have to drop the tank and leave the pump asembly in place.
twinnie wrote:
edit: both the fuel suply conections are stuck fast so i'll have to drop the tank and leave the pump asembly in place.
Should be able to free the flexy hose nuts, place the two spanners (correct sized) as close as you can together to get a small amount of movement first, and squeeze them together in your palms, rather than using one hand for each spanner, if you get them close together you can 'sqeeze' with the strength of both hands
the return hose move clip down off the pipe (underneath) 'til it's clear of the pipe, then get a fine screwdriver and gently insert between hose and pipe and slide it in a bit to break the vulcanising of the rubber, you should be able to get a bit of stretch in it this way and slide it off
You can leave fuel in tank as long as you lossen the filler cap, iff you don't release the pressure, it will siphon itself out whilst you are trying to undo everything
nb. you will get a little loss as you crack the high pressure line but as long as the filler cap is loose it will shortly stop
NF 3.0 BLK, 2.5" suspension (HD T bars, prog coils, TJM Bullbar, 31X10.5X15 Mickey T FCII & cent locking
Loco wrote:twinnie wrote:
edit: both the fuel suply conections are stuck fast so i'll have to drop the tank and leave the pump asembly in place.
Should be able to free the flexy hose nuts, place the two spanners (correct sized) as close as you can together to get a small amount of movement first, and squeeze them together in your palms, rather than using one hand for each spanner, if you get them close together you can 'sqeeze' with the strength of both hands
the return hose move clip down off the pipe (underneath) 'til it's clear of the pipe, then get a fine screwdriver and gently insert between hose and pipe and slide it in a bit to break the vulcanising of the rubber, you should be able to get a bit of stretch in it this way and slide it off
You can leave fuel in tank as long as you lossen the filler cap, iff you don't release the pressure, it will siphon itself out whilst you are trying to undo everything
nb. you will get a little loss as you crack the high pressure line but as long as the filler cap is loose it will shortly stop
The Gregory's manual takes you through a short procedure to release the pressure in the line. Worked for me.
thanks guys you all rule!
i'll see how i go zute, you might get a call tomorrow
i have tryed every trick (including the ones here(thanks nj)) to get this suply line off but it's not happening i think some one has tryed to do it before and rooted the nuts, i also don't want to bend the high presure pipe, which i have done a little trying to get this damed thing off.
as for depresurising the system there is no presure left at all, and the return hose is off i am going to clean the top of the tank thoughly to stop dirt getting in (thanks loco)
i'll take pics tomorrow to show you how it goes
Matt
i'll see how i go zute, you might get a call tomorrow
i have tryed every trick (including the ones here(thanks nj)) to get this suply line off but it's not happening i think some one has tryed to do it before and rooted the nuts, i also don't want to bend the high presure pipe, which i have done a little trying to get this damed thing off.
as for depresurising the system there is no presure left at all, and the return hose is off i am going to clean the top of the tank thoughly to stop dirt getting in (thanks loco)
i'll take pics tomorrow to show you how it goes
Matt
a break though!
the tank is half hanging off, and i have managed to get the fuel suply hose conector lose but it just twists the hose when you try and get it off are you ment to take both ends off?
also taking the tank out means i have another stuck nut to contend with.
i think i'll have to stop for the day i'm feeling the efects of sniffing petrol all day.
Matt
the tank is half hanging off, and i have managed to get the fuel suply hose conector lose but it just twists the hose when you try and get it off are you ment to take both ends off?
also taking the tank out means i have another stuck nut to contend with.
i think i'll have to stop for the day i'm feeling the efects of sniffing petrol all day.
Matt
the end next to the hard line that runs along the body to the front should be a compression fitting (it swivels)
You should be fitting one spanner to the welded fitting (nut) on the hardline to stop the pipe twisting and the other spanner to the fitting right next to that (very end of hose) it should swivel once you have cracked the compression, maybe the compression fitting is rusted together
if you have cracked the seal. put a vise grip next to the spanner on the end of hose and grip the crimp there to give the fitting on end of hose a half a two to free it up
Hey you can only stuff it completely and go sulk in a corner afterwards, or you can succeed and be proud of the accomplishment at the end of a day,
You should be fitting one spanner to the welded fitting (nut) on the hardline to stop the pipe twisting and the other spanner to the fitting right next to that (very end of hose) it should swivel once you have cracked the compression, maybe the compression fitting is rusted together
if you have cracked the seal. put a vise grip next to the spanner on the end of hose and grip the crimp there to give the fitting on end of hose a half a two to free it up
Hey you can only stuff it completely and go sulk in a corner afterwards, or you can succeed and be proud of the accomplishment at the end of a day,
NF 3.0 BLK, 2.5" suspension (HD T bars, prog coils, TJM Bullbar, 31X10.5X15 Mickey T FCII & cent locking
the end you need to get to should be right above the rear universal joint to the passenger side, not the end next to the tank, should be as simple as lying on you back, stopping dreaming of how high you can lift it and turn the fitting off
NF 3.0 BLK, 2.5" suspension (HD T bars, prog coils, TJM Bullbar, 31X10.5X15 Mickey T FCII & cent locking
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