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Axle Forward - Tyre Rubbing Issues
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Axle Forward - Tyre Rubbing Issues
OK just get a little thread going see what people experience is with how much axle forward allows them to run the big meats.
i for one runn 35mm axle forward and love it
but on the next one i think 1" hanger forward with rears in front should net around 4" axle forward which i hope would keep up to 38's far enough out of the guards
i know richard runs 2" with only a slight bit of rubbing on 37's
i for one runn 35mm axle forward and love it
but on the next one i think 1" hanger forward with rears in front should net around 4" axle forward which i hope would keep up to 38's far enough out of the guards
i know richard runs 2" with only a slight bit of rubbing on 37's
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I run rears up front which I think is about 2" forward
With 35's at the mo I have heaps of clearance but want to go 37's next
The problem I'm trying to get answers to is I know if you go too far forward there is problems with the draglink hitting the tie rod with hi steer. How far can you go forward before this is a prob. I think BJ mentioned a Daihatsu pitman arm to help with clearance.
I need to do more research 8)
With 35's at the mo I have heaps of clearance but want to go 37's next
The problem I'm trying to get answers to is I know if you go too far forward there is problems with the draglink hitting the tie rod with hi steer. How far can you go forward before this is a prob. I think BJ mentioned a Daihatsu pitman arm to help with clearance.
I need to do more research 8)
www.4wd.net.nz
suprasurf wrote:I run rears up front which I think is about 2" forward
With 35's at the mo I have heaps of clearance but want to go 37's next
The problem I'm trying to get answers to is I know if you go too far forward there is problems with the draglink hitting the tie rod with hi steer. How far can you go forward before this is a prob. I think BJ mentioned a Daihatsu pitman arm to help with clearance.
I need to do more research 8)
Talk to the manufacturers of histeer eg Chaos 4x4 and they'll be able to answer your questions as they've done it all before. I'm currently fitting histeer to my vehicle with the front diff 4 1/2 inches forward so I'll see how it goes. The standard IFS pitman arm is the shortest toyota but not as short as the Diahatsu. Chaos make an adaptor to use the IFS pitman arm. I also had my stering arms made shorter than usual to bring the TRE closer to the diff. Also depend on style of TRE and thickness of steering linkages.
I measured my rear pack (that was installed in the front) and it measured 75mm difference from standard. Add the centre pin relocation on the perches and you get and extra 35mm so that's how I calculate 4 1/2 ". Others say it's less.
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RUFF wrote:Fixing the binding issue with the D/L and T/R is easy just move the steering box as far forward as possible even if it means cutting into the rad support and the cab mount. Shortening the arms only makes the steering box and all components work harder.
Tony talks out his a$$!!!!
actually no seriously tony has done his and it works well, he did it how he decribes and it steers well. the 38s rubbed, but it did not have much lift, and his tyres measure 40" x 16"
hands and mums dont count!!!
RUFF wrote:Fixing the binding issue with the D/L and T/R is easy just move the steering box as far forward as possible even if it means cutting into the rad support and the cab mount. Shortening the arms only makes the steering box and all components work harder.
That's what I thought with the extra stress due to the shorter arms but chaos did them this way to account for the diff relocation although I hadn't asked them to do it. Once they had, then I figured that I'd give it a try. Eventually I want to go hydro assist so the stress wont be too big of an issue.
My steering box is already rubbing the paint off the rad support panel so I shouldn't have too many issues.
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beebee wrote:RUFF wrote:Fixing the binding issue with the D/L and T/R is easy just move the steering box as far forward as possible even if it means cutting into the rad support and the cab mount. Shortening the arms only makes the steering box and all components work harder.
That's what I thought with the extra stress due to the shorter arms but chaos did them this way to account for the diff relocation although I hadn't asked them to do it. Once they had, then I figured that I'd give it a try. Eventually I want to go hydro assist so the stress wont be too big of an issue.
My steering box is already rubbing the paint off the rad support panel so I shouldn't have too many issues.
my box aint rubbing paint off the support as i put a holesaw thru mine and moved it even further forward
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No, just a steering box that was mounted far enough forward to solve any drag link/tie rod issues.
TEAM DGR WEBSITE
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Sponsors:
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING
LOCKTUP 4X4
UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFTS QUEENSLAND
MASSOJET UNDER BODY BUDDY
DIRTCOMP
4WD TV
TEAM DGR ON FACEBOOK
Sponsors:
SUPERIOR ENGINEERING
LOCKTUP 4X4
UNIVERSAL DRIVESHAFTS QUEENSLAND
MASSOJET UNDER BODY BUDDY
DIRTCOMP
4WD TV
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