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Bang Again

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

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Bang Again

Post by Maggot4x4 »

Having blown up my second tailshaft in a month, both times the the front flange on the rear shaft, I need sugestions. This shaft cost $420 and had 30deg flanges with 1310 uj's, the flange just exploded an a very mild hill climb, low first and about 1200rpm.

I was going to go 1350 uj's but they were only in a 20deg flange as it was the uni that let go last time.

For those that don't know the specs of the truck, it's an 85 Rangie with 4BD1, LT85, LT230, GQ diffs with 4.1's and 35" Simex ET's.

How hard would it be to redo the flange on the outpit shaft to take a GQ bolt patern, and would it fit in the handbrake?

The shaft was less than 24hrs old and all it did was drive the 30km to the track and the forrest track once there.

Help please, as I want to turbo the truck but if I cant keep tailshafts in it now, what hope do I have with a turbo!
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
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Post by Rangie ute on 38'' »

its sounds like an alignment prob, do you have nissan diffs. having a brand new shaft and that happening in that situation sounds strange.
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Post by Philip A »

You must add the angles when computing the total angle on the UJ.

IE you must add the offset caused by the GQ diff being in the middle to the down angle to find the true angle on the UJ.

Sounds like it may be more than the design max. It sounds wrong but I read it on a US driveshaft makers site so it MUST be correct.
regards Philip A
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Post by red90 »

Remember, you need to look at the angles at full suspension travel.
[color=red]1991 Landrover 90 ex-MOD[/color]
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Post by red90 »

Remember, you need to look at the angles at full suspension travel.

You probably need to go double cardon, not stronger.
[color=red]1991 Landrover 90 ex-MOD[/color]
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Post by HSV Rangie »

Alll the info you need on drive shafts.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... index.html

Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
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Post by Maggot4x4 »

Thanks guys, will check out the link.

Here is a photo of the now dead flange.

Image
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
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Post by redzook »

can u see any where where it has been binding?
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Post by Maggot4x4 »

No binding at all :!: :roll:
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
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Post by DARTHrover »

if i had to guess! ide say sh%t cast quality.
or poor spline design(as that is where it broke)
as a machinist, if you dont finish a spline off properly it will
shear easy as!
and being a cheap quality cast thats what i bet on.
Challenge excepted!
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Post by red90 »

OK, I'm confused. You said the flange broke. That looks like the shaft broke. U-joint didn't break, do that is not the problem.

Unless the shafting is complete crap, then something must be binding or hitting. From what I can see the shaft should be stronger than the UJ.
[color=red]1991 Landrover 90 ex-MOD[/color]
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