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Busted a CV..Mark, need your quick change instructions

Tech Talk for Ford, Mazda, Daihatsu & Makes that currently dont have a home.

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Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 7:06 am

Busted a CV..Mark, need your quick change instructions

Post by Ferwoaza »

Blew my 1st CV last night....on the last obstacle too!! Damm it held up well until then, getting big air with numbers and it held up....then it went pop (well KABLAM actually) with hardly any stress on it DOH :oops:

Mark, you once told how to change a CV quickly? I've forgotten all of it, could you post up the step by step instructions if you have a chance?

Thanks dude...
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Post by rocknferoza »

Bugger dude :cry:

So where did u go wheeling :?:
James
94 cxi feroza- coiled rear!!! SOLD !!!!!
05 s/cab 5L-e hilux- bring on the mods
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Location: Melbourne

Post by *BESTY* »

How did your engine mount hold up ??

Did you get another mount or just weld a bit of chain ??

Was it the Logan District thingy ??
[color=orange] BESTY [/color]




GU4800
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C.V. Change instructions

Post by Mark Hoult »

:D :D :shock:

Not bad going Muz,

I hope your not going to try and beat my 3 cv's in one day now :finger:

Ok here goes,

1. Remove your wheel

2. Remove the little socket head cap screws from the hub making sure its disengaged first.

3.Take off the "c" clip off the spline.

4. Remove the split pins and un-do the bolts from the steering linkage, top and bottom control arms.

5. get a decent size hammer and knock down on the control arms and steering linkage so as to break the tapper lock. You will have to put a good size block of wood under the bottom control arm conecting to the hub or it will just bounce and absorb the shock from the hammer. Definately DO NOT KNOCK THE UNDER SIDE OF THE BOLT UP EVEN WITH THE NUT ON otherwise you won't get the nut back on and stuff the thread totally.

6. Once all bolts are free and out of the way the hub will drop down. Support the hub square with the diff and pull it out. The inner cv will come out and you should be also able to push through the outer cv back through the hub with a screw driver.

7. Get the new cv and put the inner cv in first. It may take a little bit getting it into the spline of the diff. You will have to either give it a sharp push into the diff or give it a light tap in from the other end of the spline, square to the diff. Once its in twist it around and make sure your other cv shaft is turning.

8.Next lift the hub up and put the cv outer spline through it.

9. Connect the bolts and do up the nuts and line up the groove for the split pin.

10. Using one of your bolts from the hub screw it into the outer shaft spline and usine long nose pliers pull it through the hub centre and put the "c" clip back on. You will need small flat screwdrivers for this and or another person - maybe.

11. Put your hub back on and lock both sides up and turn the wheels round just to test.

Best of luck it can and ussually is a prick of a job first time round :twisted: . Allow about 2 hrs, I think thats what it took me but after a while I got it down to 25 min :D :P

Any dramas just give me a call

Regards

Mark Hoult
Posts: 1679
Joined: Fri Nov 08, 2002 7:06 am

Post by Ferwoaza »

Thanks Mark, I'm giving myself the whole weekend to do it :lol: I've got the CV you gave me when we did the body lift. So all good there..

Yeah, this was on the logan district night run (more details in the thread in comps). I dunno about my mounts, it's weird. I gave my engine mounts a real good inspection and they seem to be fine. When the engine is reved it isn't moving, but the gearbox is. So I suspect it's the gearbox mount that has crapped itself. Can't tell till I pull my finger out and take my bashplate off from underneath :lol:
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