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lock right diff locks.
Moderator: Micka
lock right diff locks.
i have had a search around outers and then net with no joy. are lockright style auto locking diffs available for early rangies?
range rover & series one landy!
I have experienced the 'joys' of a detroit before as well as the benefits. When I was offered a delivery damaged Truetrac for peanuts I was a bit unsure - LSD's have some odd quirks.460cixy wrote:cheers for the advice fellas. i just found info on the trutrac its an lsd i realy want a locker but not going to shell out the coin for an arb to go in a weekend 10 spline warrior how ever would work tops in the front.
I have had it in the back of my RaRo for about 5k miles now, with about 1k miles off road. It's great. No unpleasantnesson the tarmac and just what the Doctor ordered off road. It works well on rock, in mud and on sand. Coupled to a mild disclocation system on the rear it means I don't have to run so aggressive a tyre (just MT's ) to get as far as I want.
I would suggest caution with chucking one in the front - I did just that with a Quaife LSD and it made fast driving on wet tarmac/loose gravel roads a bit interesting - especially the corners!
No-body knows everything, the fun is trying to...
I also had a lockright in a cruiser, took a bit to shim up, to get it right and about 3 months later blew a tyre at 100k on the sealed road and the lockright didn't like that one bit.
And then driving down the road it would just let go without warning and it make the cruiser sway alot. a air locker is the only way to go.
And then driving down the road it would just let go without warning and it make the cruiser sway alot. a air locker is the only way to go.
Not really (or not without a lot of problems...)Lao Tsu wrote:To be honest the only way to go is G-wagon axles with hydraulic in/out lockers.Rangie Thing wrote:. a air locker is the only way to go.
One day....
G-Wagon axles are only about the same strength or marginally stronger than Rangie axles (diff centres are stronger).
The front axle on a G-wagon spins in the opposite direction to a rover diff (and most normal diffs) - so you need to fit a g-wagen transfer case if you want it to work.
G.wagen axles are semi-floating (at least rear and I think front too), so if you break an axle you lose the wheel.
There are MUCH better options out there.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
It depends on what you want to do with it
A G axle will run 500hp and 35" Simex tyres with little or n worrie , so me wanting a Merc lump 170bhp derv burner, auto box, t-box and axles in a vehicle that will never run bigger than 31's. And I get a difflock that will force in and out....
I get my buzz out of long distance travel to remote areas and running/marshaling at events.
Why would I want to ruin my vehicles handling characteristics with Portals when I don't need them, what good are portals on remote tracks in the Sierra Nevada or at Wadi Rum? It's like running Simex ET's when all you do is a few tracks and trails and a couple of non comp events a year!
If I inclined to serious rock or say the Ladoga Trophy, then portals (russian military) and 44'x would be my thing. Each to his own but don't knock it until you have tried it.
If LC or GU axles were more common over here I would go down that route, but G stuff is easier to get. Hell I might even just buy a G and give the RR to the wife!
A G axle will run 500hp and 35" Simex tyres with little or n worrie , so me wanting a Merc lump 170bhp derv burner, auto box, t-box and axles in a vehicle that will never run bigger than 31's. And I get a difflock that will force in and out....
I get my buzz out of long distance travel to remote areas and running/marshaling at events.
Why would I want to ruin my vehicles handling characteristics with Portals when I don't need them, what good are portals on remote tracks in the Sierra Nevada or at Wadi Rum? It's like running Simex ET's when all you do is a few tracks and trails and a couple of non comp events a year!
If I inclined to serious rock or say the Ladoga Trophy, then portals (russian military) and 44'x would be my thing. Each to his own but don't knock it until you have tried it.
If LC or GU axles were more common over here I would go down that route, but G stuff is easier to get. Hell I might even just buy a G and give the RR to the wife!
No-body knows everything, the fun is trying to...
That seems a more sensible and reliable option that fitting an entire whole g-wagen drivetrain to a RR.Lao Tsu wrote:Hell I might even just buy a G and give the RR to the wife!
The engines in the older G's weren't much to write home about.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
The 2.8 naturally asthmatic 6 cylinder is okay for day to day use
The 3.0 NA 6 cyl is not too bad at all
The 3.0ltr Turbo is superb
The 2.3 pet is an abomination in the eyes of god
The 2.8 and 3.0 ltr pets are okay
The 4.4 V8 likes to run too hot
The 6.0ltr AMG is a mere 500bhp of stupidity
Luckily most of the car engines are an easy swap
Bets of the lot is the newish 5 cylinder 2.7 ltr Tdi - lovely and very fuel efficient - but a bastard to get hold of.
The 3.0 NA 6 cyl is not too bad at all
The 3.0ltr Turbo is superb
The 2.3 pet is an abomination in the eyes of god
The 2.8 and 3.0 ltr pets are okay
The 4.4 V8 likes to run too hot
The 6.0ltr AMG is a mere 500bhp of stupidity
Luckily most of the car engines are an easy swap
Bets of the lot is the newish 5 cylinder 2.7 ltr Tdi - lovely and very fuel efficient - but a bastard to get hold of.
No-body knows everything, the fun is trying to...
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