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Custom Links

Tech Talk for Rover owners.

Moderator: Micka

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Custom Links

Post by small talk »

Gday Rover boys, just a few questions, i am thinking of using the A frame coil setup off the rear of a range rover to coil the rear of my suzuki and want to know what joints i should be using on the chassis end of the stock rangie trailing arms for maximum articulation ??

a) the standard rangie joint

b) the joint on the diff end of the trailing arm
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1984 Hilux dualcab.
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Post by Slunnie »

I'm currently doing the same. I would side step the stock Rover lower links. I've seen too many of them fold up. 3rds productions are now selling Patrol lower bushes AND high carbon rings to press them into for $35ea. Everywhere else charge $35 for the bush only. Then make the link up yourself. A lot of people seem to bend the lower Rover links with that mounting to prevent bindong issues with high flex suspension. You wont have to do that with the round bushes, like whats on the axle end.

These are the bits from 3rd's
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Cheers
Slunnie

Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
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Post by small talk »

Just went to 3rds productions website and nothing on the bushes, what would be used for the link itself?? i thort that the rover trailing arm would be tuff enough under a sierra (not a sierra derived buggy).

Brock.
1984 Hilux dualcab.
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Post by small talk »

Would it make for better flex with the link on the diff end on both ends??
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Post by Slunnie »

Not sure, they're the ones that the Nissans and 3rds use in their rear ends at both ends and these are very very close to the Landcruiser ones also. The bush is designed to flex sideways by the rubber casting design, whereas the Rover one isn't, making the chassis pin mount twist. In relation to how much it twists in relation to a Jony joint or pin joint..... not sure. It will drop and bump easier though.
Cheers
Slunnie

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Post by small talk »

Damo's setup uses the pin style joint but with lenghtend trailing arms, and flexes great.
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Post by takearidewifme »

I would avoid rover arms purly because I just broke both of mine.... 1 at the pin end and one at the other... Im making custom arms with a swing joint at the chassis end and standard bushing at diff end... I will be keeping the standard chassis bush and using a grade8 bolt will be bolting a U bracket bought from auotbarn ( leaf spring shackel) there having a GQ bushed trailing arm at the chassis end with a curv in the arm for clearance... this will give the benifit of swing and twist.... failing that use 110 defender arms I think... they have bigger pins that shouldent break under a zook...

Mark

This is my flex.... now you see why my arms broke...lol
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Post by Micka »

The rover style arms are the best for flex. Simple as that.

Just a matter of cranking them to suit the lift and sleeving them for strength.

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Post by Loanrangie »

small talk wrote:Damo's setup uses the pin style joint but with lenghtend trailing arms, and flexes great.

He would get more flex if he chucked those poly bushes and used the stock rubber ones.
Saddle up tonto, its the not so loanrangie! . 98 TDI DISCO lightly modded with more to come.
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Post by GURU »

takearidewifme wrote:I would avoid rover arms purly because I just broke both of mine.... 1 at the pin end and one at the other... Im making custom arms with a swing joint at the chassis end and standard bushing at diff end... I will be keeping the standard chassis bush and using a grade8 bolt will be bolting a U bracket bought from auotbarn ( leaf spring shackel) there having a GQ bushed trailing arm at the chassis end with a curv in the arm for clearance... this will give the benifit of swing and twist.... failing that use 110 defender arms I think... they have bigger pins that shouldent break under a zook...

Mark

This is my flex.... now you see why my arms broke...lol
hope your extending your arm length....from the pic the rear diff is steering along way with the arms getting that vertical.
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Post by HSV Rangie »

these are my rear links.

Custom by me.


40m od 20mm id hollow bar.
threaded in sirt makes them adjustable in lth.

Image

Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
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Post by Bush65 »

HSV Rangie wrote:these are my rear links.

Custom by me.


40m od 20mm id hollow bar.
threaded in sirt makes them adjustable in lth.


Michael.
Michael, I take it that the pin for the chassis mount, screws into the hollow bar - that is a great idea.
John
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Post by Bush65 »

Another question about your trailing arms Michael.

With the crank in that position, do they clear the outriggers for the body mounts, or have you packed the bump rubber down to limit the up travel?
John
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Post by HSV Rangie »

they clear.

so far they have no issues.

Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
Posts: 1559
Joined: Sun Nov 03, 2002 2:35 pm
Location: Captain Creek QLD

Post by Bush65 »

Thanks Michael.

I need to make some soon, so I might do similar.
John
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