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Moderator: Micka
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Gday Rover boys, just a few questions, i am thinking of using the A frame coil setup off the rear of a range rover to coil the rear of my suzuki and want to know what joints i should be using on the chassis end of the stock rangie trailing arms for maximum articulation ??
a) the standard rangie joint
b) the joint on the diff end of the trailing arm
a) the standard rangie joint
b) the joint on the diff end of the trailing arm
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1984 Hilux dualcab.
I'm currently doing the same. I would side step the stock Rover lower links. I've seen too many of them fold up. 3rds productions are now selling Patrol lower bushes AND high carbon rings to press them into for $35ea. Everywhere else charge $35 for the bush only. Then make the link up yourself. A lot of people seem to bend the lower Rover links with that mounting to prevent bindong issues with high flex suspension. You wont have to do that with the round bushes, like whats on the axle end.
These are the bits from 3rd's
These are the bits from 3rd's
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Cheers
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Not sure, they're the ones that the Nissans and 3rds use in their rear ends at both ends and these are very very close to the Landcruiser ones also. The bush is designed to flex sideways by the rubber casting design, whereas the Rover one isn't, making the chassis pin mount twist. In relation to how much it twists in relation to a Jony joint or pin joint..... not sure. It will drop and bump easier though.
Cheers
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
Slunnie
Discovery TD5, Landy IIa V8 ute.
I would avoid rover arms purly because I just broke both of mine.... 1 at the pin end and one at the other... Im making custom arms with a swing joint at the chassis end and standard bushing at diff end... I will be keeping the standard chassis bush and using a grade8 bolt will be bolting a U bracket bought from auotbarn ( leaf spring shackel) there having a GQ bushed trailing arm at the chassis end with a curv in the arm for clearance... this will give the benifit of swing and twist.... failing that use 110 defender arms I think... they have bigger pins that shouldent break under a zook...
Mark
This is my flex.... now you see why my arms broke...lol
Mark
This is my flex.... now you see why my arms broke...lol
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"YOURS MIGHT GO FAST, BUT MINE GOES ANYWHERE"
79 Range work in progress
79 Range work in progress
hope your extending your arm length....from the pic the rear diff is steering along way with the arms getting that vertical.takearidewifme wrote:I would avoid rover arms purly because I just broke both of mine.... 1 at the pin end and one at the other... Im making custom arms with a swing joint at the chassis end and standard bushing at diff end... I will be keeping the standard chassis bush and using a grade8 bolt will be bolting a U bracket bought from auotbarn ( leaf spring shackel) there having a GQ bushed trailing arm at the chassis end with a curv in the arm for clearance... this will give the benifit of swing and twist.... failing that use 110 defender arms I think... they have bigger pins that shouldent break under a zook...
Mark
This is my flex.... now you see why my arms broke...lol
[i]DAS[/i]
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
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