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the problem with diesels is they have a nasty habit of running on their own oil when you get them onto fuct up angles, then they tend to explode violently.
they're not the best for instant wheelspeed from idle either..
the problem with diesels is they have a nasty habit of running on their own oil when you get them onto fuct up angles, then they tend to explode violently.
they're not the best for instant wheelspeed from idle either..
They are way way heavy, and very big $$$$ to rebuild when they thro a rod from running on side or upside down, this is one of the concerns i had with my v8 diesel in a comp rig and why i got rid of it.
Mine for the buggy is worked 308 on straight gas, prob not the lightest but cheap to repair or replace after running on side with no oil pressure one too many times.
the problem with diesels is they have a nasty habit of running on their own oil when you get them onto fuct up angles, then they tend to explode violently.
they're not the best for instant wheelspeed from idle either..
Hmmm never heard that before.
Oh well looks like a 350s the go then.
From what i have read the 350 came in a lot of forms, 130hp to 3xx hp and i would imagin there turque curves would be just as vaired.
I guess it would be hard to get a low rpm high torque motor and keep it light as they tend to be large cubes and weight to match.
May be a 383 or 400 sbc?
Eric
78 scout 392ci V8 LPG, 727 TF, dana 20, dana 44 locked and loaded, 9" rear Diff. 10inch lift'n'so on
Ruffy wrote:How much power do you need in a buggy????
Go the toyota V8
Motors that produce torque earlier would be better - but then I don't know crap about buggies - I know the rover v8 produces torque a lot earlier than the toyota/lexus 1UZ - and you really need to ring its neck to get her going - easy to compare the two try a p38 range rover vs a toyota v8 cruiser
anything engine over about 3 litres will work well when it comes down to it. just need to match up gearing accordingly. it is also important to get the stall point in the t/convertor spot on for you particular choice. i think it is way more important having the tranny stall at the right point than having one billion nm.
with whatever motor you choose don't disregard more important things like packaging and reliabilty just to get big numbers on paper.
Wendle wrote: it is also important to get the stall point in the t/convertor spot on for you particular choice. i think it is way more important having the tranny stall at the right point than having one billion nm.
So for the auto-transmission-retards amongst us (myself included ) how do we go about figuring out what stall point to use?
Damo wrote:So for the auto-transmission-retards amongst us (myself included ) how do we go about figuring out what stall point to use?
i am pretty retarded myself. i ask less retarded people what works for them and try to compare the gearing maths that they have against what i have. eg: commodore 3.8 with t700 works well with t/convertor with a slightly higher stall than stock, this is just a modified commo convertor (not sure on rpm#) but it is a false way of getting more low down torque and crawlabilty, once you go higher than that they use a modified camira convertor, which is taking it a bit far, but should give you a massive launch when driving through brakes. there are a lot of people around with scary amounts of knowledge on this maths..
A motor that produces xxx torque @1500 rpm will help to lower your real world crawl ratio over a motor that produces the same xxx torque @ a higher ratio.
Let me try to explain (or guess)
A 4wd has let’s say 50 to 1 crawl ratio.
Now if the chose motor that needs to run @ 3000 rpm to produce enough power to climb a given object the @ 6.25mph
Now
If the same 4wd had the same power available @ 1500rpm it could travel at 3.13mph thus doubling your real world crawl ratio.
Eric
78 scout 392ci V8 LPG, 727 TF, dana 20, dana 44 locked and loaded, 9" rear Diff. 10inch lift'n'so on