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stainless custom snorkel
Moderator: Micka
If you flip it over, the intake will hit against the firewall. If you put it forwards of the carbies, I don't think it would really fit there, although I'd have to look to be sure. Even if you did flip it, its still going to hang over the rocker cover... The ducting doesn't really hang over anything particularly hot where it is, although I should shorten it by about 4 inches to take up that little bit of slack there - its on the (very long) to do list.It's been a while since I looked under the bonnet of a carb rangie, but regarding routing of flexy pipe - can the centre air filter be flipped over so intake is pointing towards windscreen? Maybe even reverse alloy U-bends as well, if not enough room for centre pipe?
I dunno if possible and just thinking out aloud but it could neaten up the intake routing a bit, save pipe dangling over motor...
Yeah, 3 inch pipe is the go, with two 45 degree mandrel bends. One thing to remember when you weld them together, is that it helps if you make the bottom bend about 5 degrees out of phase to the top (pointed towards the inner of the car). I'm not actually sure where you'd get the flexy ducting from, I got someone else to get mine for me. Its pretty expensive stuff.... I know autobarn has it, but i think its 3 inch overall diameter, rather than inside diameter, which means it won't fit over the snorkle (not without many hours of swearing). Plus autobarn is expensive. You could maybe try Clark Rubber?cheers for that needed a project this weekend go and see my mates at the muffler shop. what size pipe you reckon 3'' and where can i get the fexible tube from a plumber shop?
cheers for the pics will let you know how i go sick rangie too
By the way, anyone with the two box type carby intake (who doesn't want to run twin snorkles), you could probably use a plumbers 75mm Y-piece to split the flow up - at a guess about $5 at Bunnings.
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
Yeah the mould is done and no its not a one off, i can get a few made but it may take a few weeks, i was only making a couple one for me and one for Michael (HSV) but i will see how they turn out and if they are good i will get some more. Will sell for the cost of making plus postage (not interested in making money on them), you will just have to get your own intake from TJM ($63??). When i get one made and painted i will post it up next to the L/H one so you can compare. Its not exact but pretty close.
Damien
Damien
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All the ones I have seen at truck places are made by Donaldson (ram and pre-cleaner type). They are good quality - mine stood up to god knows how many trees before finally being decapitated by cable from a garage door mechanism - and after a bit of sikaflex was as good as new again...landy_man wrote:no mate.. they are just generic ram heads as used on trucks.. look exactly the same as the plain safari style ones...
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
6.5 rangie wrote:Yeah the mould is done and no its not a one off, i can get a few made but it may take a few weeks, i was only making a couple one for me and one for Michael (HSV) but i will see how they turn out and if they are good i will get some more. Will sell for the cost of making plus postage (not interested in making money on them), you will just have to get your own intake from TJM ($63??). When i get one made and painted i will post it up next to the L/H one so you can compare. Its not exact but pretty close.
Damien
cool send me a pm when there ready how much for 2
snorkels
Have been thinking about a snorkel for a while. I have not fitted one so far as I am concerned about extra wind/induction noise. My Rangie is quiet except for when I fit my mud tyres. What are the noticable benefits if any. I have always thought the distributor would be flooded before any water got into the airfilter housing so am not too worried about river crossings etc. 3.5 with edelbrock manifold and quadrajet.
The main benefit of a snorkel in terms of onroad is the fact that you are scooping the coldest air possible into the engine, which means it is denser. It can gain a little power. Also, the air at the snorkel head is likely to be a lot cleaner than what is picked up in the engine bay (especially if your engine bay is nice and muddy), which translates to your air filter staying cleaner longer. Of course, if you drive in convoys in the outback, this isn't so helpful without a precleaner at the top.
In terms of the dissy flooding, the air filter will more than likely suck water before the dissy is flooded, as the fan will spray water all over the engine bay (including straight into your intake) even if your dissy is nowhere near actually being in the water (the fan can pick water up from the bottom of the engine bay, even if it isn't touching water directly).
It is also quite possible to seal your dissy to be pretty much watertight by using an o-ring or making a silicone gasket. There might even be waterproofing kits you can buy. Of course, if you want to be fully watertight a small increase in air pressure in the dissy is the best option.
I haven't noticed any extra wind noise from my snorkle, and I listened carefully when I first fitted it, because that was also one of my concerns. You will not gain any induction noise over your current system, unless you change your air filter to a 'sports' type, or dramatically change your airbox setup.
In terms of the dissy flooding, the air filter will more than likely suck water before the dissy is flooded, as the fan will spray water all over the engine bay (including straight into your intake) even if your dissy is nowhere near actually being in the water (the fan can pick water up from the bottom of the engine bay, even if it isn't touching water directly).
It is also quite possible to seal your dissy to be pretty much watertight by using an o-ring or making a silicone gasket. There might even be waterproofing kits you can buy. Of course, if you want to be fully watertight a small increase in air pressure in the dissy is the best option.
I haven't noticed any extra wind noise from my snorkle, and I listened carefully when I first fitted it, because that was also one of my concerns. You will not gain any induction noise over your current system, unless you change your air filter to a 'sports' type, or dramatically change your airbox setup.
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
heard that you can use a air horn compresser to run 2 psi through it but dont know how its done im sure someone wouldRangingRover wrote:It is also quite possible to seal your dissy to be pretty much watertight by using an o-ring or making a silicone gasket. There might even be waterproofing kits you can buy. Of course, if you want to be fully watertight a small increase in air pressure in the dissy is the best option.
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dan
I believe you drill a hole in the side of the plastic cap, then tap a thread into it and screw in a fitting for a small airline. Then I'm assuming you'd need a pressure regulator in your air line in to keep it from shattering the dissy cap. You don't need much pressure, just enough so that the pressure inside the dissy is slightly higher than outside, this is sufficient to keep water out - the dissy doesn't even have to be airtight, long as the pressure is kept higher than outside.heard that you can use a air horn compresser to run 2 psi through it but dont know how its done im sure someone would
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
i have done the same sort of thing with my snorkle, i just got 2 mandrel bent 3" exhaust pipe and a straight length of the same size and built it. so the top faces back towards the rear of the car. works well. got it powder coated black and looks pretty sweet.. but have no pics on this computer im on but will post some late..
i was thinkin it was something like that sounds like a good idea have to look into it moreRangingRover wrote:I believe you drill a hole in the side of the plastic cap, then tap a thread into it and screw in a fitting for a small airline. Then I'm assuming you'd need a pressure regulator in your air line in to keep it from shattering the dissy cap. You don't need much pressure, just enough so that the pressure inside the dissy is slightly higher than outside, this is sufficient to keep water out - the dissy doesn't even have to be airtight, long as the pressure is kept higher than outside.heard that you can use a air horn compresser to run 2 psi through it but dont know how its done im sure someone would
dan
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