cutting and flaring a 4 door rangie

Post by **rangiedan** » Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:55 pm

G'day fella's, i was after some info on a "do it yourself" cut and flare job on me 4 door rangie. i have a 5 in" lift already and i run the 34" J/T 2's simex's and they are cutting out my gaurds. is it an easy job and would it be advised to "do it yourself" ??? thanks Rangiedan..

Post by **RangingRover** » Sun Jan 29, 2006 11:17 pm

You can do it yourself, the worst thing is hacking into your doors - you have to take a fair bit out...

Website · Post by **Maggot4x4** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 8:02 am

Not to hard, as long as you don't believe the rangie spares template / instructions

Post by **GRIMACE** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 12:23 pm

The last two time we did it here we took to the flares and doors at the top of the point where it begins to flair out.
Followed them lines and it looked sweet.

Never fitted flares though so maybe doin this wont work out so peachy.
Remeber to cut the body skin behing the rear door, and make sure its trimmed back abit more than the door itself other wise it might look funny.

Also when i cut that body skin behing the door i left about 6mm below where it curves down vertiacly, for abit of safety from sharp edge for passengers hoping in and out.

For pics of wat it looked like cutting using the method i described above check this thread.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=62542
Note: this rangie has abit extra cutt out from the front and rear of each guard (approx 1.5").

edit: i just read that back to myself and i dont think it makes any sense at all

Post by **duck** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 12:48 pm

Maggot4x4 wrote:Not to hard, as long as you don't believe the rangie spares template / instructions

lol yer i went and picked up some instuctions today...... i got no clue how to do it lol ill work it out

Post by **HSV Rangie** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 1:26 pm

first rear door is a PIA but nextis easy.

front is very easy.

chop away.

Michael.

Post by **86MUD** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 1:37 pm

What's the best tool for cutting the guards? Grinder? Jigsaw?

Post by **GRIMACE** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 1:43 pm

we used a grinder with thin 1mm cutting discs.... might not be the best, but it was quick and easy.

Cheers
Anthony

Post by **86MUD** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 1:57 pm

Thanks Anthony

How did you seal up the gap in the back doors between the skins?

I am getting up the courage to do mine...

Cheers

Andrew

Post by **HSV Rangie** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 2:14 pm

AnthonyP wrote:we used a grinder with thin 1mm cutting discs.... might not be the best, but it was quick and easy.

Cheers
Anthony

agreed.

Michael.

Post by **RangingRover** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 6:08 pm

How did you seal up the gap in the back doors between the skins?

You don't

The flare extends up inside the door almost to the trim panel, with the door flares, and there is a seal that runs along that inside edge of the flare - which reminds me, i really should fit the other side of that..... Only have it on one door

Basically, you cut till it looks like it'll fit, then you hammer crap out of the inner part of the door until it does fit

But yes - rangie spares instructions = useless. Make sure you do your front flares after the rears are done, if you want them to be on the same level - my rear flares ended up slightly lower than my fronts....

Cutting tools - i used a jigsaw for the front, it gives a nice cut, but you ideally need someone to hang onto the guard to stop it flapping around and ending up all dented.

Doors, grinder is the go.[/quote]

Post by **rangiedan** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 6:47 pm

cool thanks fella's might just have to give it a go.. i have air hacksaw that might just do the job.. see how we go. cheers.

Post by **duck** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 7:22 pm

well i found all this on outers that is quite helpfull

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=34002
got a bit in here and a few pics

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... highlight=
better info in here and i stole pics of some one off outers

can someone let me know if this is the way to do it just incase it isnt and he got them on some how, hope this helps people

Post by **Disco Doug** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 7:31 pm

I did my own Disco and found a air powered hacksaw or panel saw the best tool to use. Hardest part was the door internal braces to cut through

Post by **rangiedan** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 9:36 pm

thats exactly what i was after.. thanks..

Post by **Bush65** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 9:40 pm

Duck,
Yes, those pics show the method.

In the 3rd last pic, see the lip (of about 10mm) left around the inner guard?

Make some radial cuts at about 10 - 12mm spacing around the lip - results in a pattern of radial tabs around the arch.

Then bend all of the tabs under to make a neat edge as seen in the later pic.

Post by **Bush65** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 9:48 pm

Duck,

I'm trusting my memory too much to be precise here now!

There is a side intrusion bar inside the rear door, which I can't see in those pics.

When you cut the skin back, it releases the rear end of the bar, which will rattle around.

You need to trim the bar and leave a tab protruding from either the outer or inner skin (can't remember which), that you then fold around the end of the side intrusion bar (to fix the end of the bar in place).

Someone may remember this better.

Post by **duck** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 9:53 pm

some one said ya have to cut door trim, by this i thought they ment the actuly fabric but i can see ya dont have to cut the fabric, is this true, and also the rubber between the flears and the body should have rubber, when i got mine i never got the rubber andrangie spears wont sell it seperatly, dose any one know were i can get it from???

Post by **HSV Rangie** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 7:02 am

no you dont cut the trim.

just the inner and outer skins.

Michael.

Post by **RangingRover** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 5:22 pm

For the 'flare piping', which is the rubber between the flare and the panel, you could try clark rubber. I have quite a bit left over, but nowhere near enough to do all your flares, and I find it useful for other things anyway.....

You'll find the pictures tend to lie to you a bit, they make it look a lot simpler than it is

You will almost 100% have to hammer the inner skin (the face that kind of faces the back of the car) up to get the flare to sit up as high as it should. Its also shown there before the inner skin is cut. Side intrusion bar is a PITA, i folded my tabs over, one rattles, one doesn't. Sikaflex will be the answer, when I get round to pulling my trim off to get to it.

Re the actual wheelarch, make sure you hammer that 10mm shown in pictures 6+7 over, this makes the arch less flimsy (now that you've just chopped the right angle that strengthens it off!) Try and get it really well folded over - my car tends to catch the JT2s on it when the wheel is dropping out of the well on the way down, but that could be due to the -25 offset rims

Post by **LukeV** » Fri Feb 03, 2006 11:34 am

Those pics were from my install a few months back.
It all went pretty well. The pics were of the second rear door I done, which went a lot quicker than the first!! Front's are easy compared to the rears.

I used an air nibbler and a jigsaw to do most of the cutting.

I have a copy of the RS instructions on my site if anyone wants a copy.

Luke

Outer Limits 4x4 Board

cutting and flaring a 4 door rangie

cutting and flaring a 4 door rangie

Fitting Flares

Who is online