Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
cutting and flaring a 4 door rangie
Moderator: Micka
cutting and flaring a 4 door rangie
G'day fella's, i was after some info on a "do it yourself" cut and flare job on me 4 door rangie. i have a 5 in" lift already and i run the 34" J/T 2's simex's and they are cutting out my gaurds. is it an easy job and would it be advised to "do it yourself" ??? thanks Rangiedan..
The last two time we did it here we took to the flares and doors at the top of the point where it begins to flair out.
Followed them lines and it looked sweet.
Never fitted flares though so maybe doin this wont work out so peachy.
Remeber to cut the body skin behing the rear door, and make sure its trimmed back abit more than the door itself other wise it might look funny.
Also when i cut that body skin behing the door i left about 6mm below where it curves down vertiacly, for abit of safety from sharp edge for passengers hoping in and out.
For pics of wat it looked like cutting using the method i described above check this thread.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=62542
Note: this rangie has abit extra cutt out from the front and rear of each guard (approx 1.5").
edit: i just read that back to myself and i dont think it makes any sense at all
Followed them lines and it looked sweet.
Never fitted flares though so maybe doin this wont work out so peachy.
Remeber to cut the body skin behing the rear door, and make sure its trimmed back abit more than the door itself other wise it might look funny.
Also when i cut that body skin behing the door i left about 6mm below where it curves down vertiacly, for abit of safety from sharp edge for passengers hoping in and out.
For pics of wat it looked like cutting using the method i described above check this thread.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=62542
Note: this rangie has abit extra cutt out from the front and rear of each guard (approx 1.5").
edit: i just read that back to myself and i dont think it makes any sense at all
agreed.AnthonyP wrote:we used a grinder with thin 1mm cutting discs.... might not be the best, but it was quick and easy.
Cheers
Anthony
Michael.
Mitsubishi 2010 NT DID Pajero wagon, Factory rear diff lock, Dual batteries, ARB bar, winch, Mt ATZ 4 rib tyres.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
1986 RR.
Custom suspension links etc.
HSV 215 engine.
4.3 diffs.
You don'tHow did you seal up the gap in the back doors between the skins?
The flare extends up inside the door almost to the trim panel, with the door flares, and there is a seal that runs along that inside edge of the flare - which reminds me, i really should fit the other side of that..... Only have it on one door
Basically, you cut till it looks like it'll fit, then you hammer crap out of the inner part of the door until it does fit
But yes - rangie spares instructions = useless. Make sure you do your front flares after the rears are done, if you want them to be on the same level - my rear flares ended up slightly lower than my fronts....
Cutting tools - i used a jigsaw for the front, it gives a nice cut, but you ideally need someone to hang onto the guard to stop it flapping around and ending up all dented.
Doors, grinder is the go.[/quote]
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
well i found all this on outers that is quite helpfull
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=34002
got a bit in here and a few pics
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... highlight=
better info in here and i stole pics of some one off outers
can someone let me know if this is the way to do it just incase it isnt and he got them on some how, hope this helps people
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=34002
got a bit in here and a few pics
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... highlight=
better info in here and i stole pics of some one off outers
can someone let me know if this is the way to do it just incase it isnt and he got them on some how, hope this helps people
Fitting Flares
I did my own Disco and found a air powered hacksaw or panel saw the best tool to use. Hardest part was the door internal braces to cut through
Duck,
Yes, those pics show the method.
In the 3rd last pic, see the lip (of about 10mm) left around the inner guard?
Make some radial cuts at about 10 - 12mm spacing around the lip - results in a pattern of radial tabs around the arch.
Then bend all of the tabs under to make a neat edge as seen in the later pic.
Yes, those pics show the method.
In the 3rd last pic, see the lip (of about 10mm) left around the inner guard?
Make some radial cuts at about 10 - 12mm spacing around the lip - results in a pattern of radial tabs around the arch.
Then bend all of the tabs under to make a neat edge as seen in the later pic.
John
Duck,
I'm trusting my memory too much to be precise here now!
There is a side intrusion bar inside the rear door, which I can't see in those pics.
When you cut the skin back, it releases the rear end of the bar, which will rattle around.
You need to trim the bar and leave a tab protruding from either the outer or inner skin (can't remember which), that you then fold around the end of the side intrusion bar (to fix the end of the bar in place).
Someone may remember this better.
I'm trusting my memory too much to be precise here now!
There is a side intrusion bar inside the rear door, which I can't see in those pics.
When you cut the skin back, it releases the rear end of the bar, which will rattle around.
You need to trim the bar and leave a tab protruding from either the outer or inner skin (can't remember which), that you then fold around the end of the side intrusion bar (to fix the end of the bar in place).
Someone may remember this better.
John
some one said ya have to cut door trim, by this i thought they ment the actuly fabric but i can see ya dont have to cut the fabric, is this true, and also the rubber between the flears and the body should have rubber, when i got mine i never got the rubber andrangie spears wont sell it seperatly, dose any one know were i can get it from???
For the 'flare piping', which is the rubber between the flare and the panel, you could try clark rubber. I have quite a bit left over, but nowhere near enough to do all your flares, and I find it useful for other things anyway.....
You'll find the pictures tend to lie to you a bit, they make it look a lot simpler than it is You will almost 100% have to hammer the inner skin (the face that kind of faces the back of the car) up to get the flare to sit up as high as it should. Its also shown there before the inner skin is cut. Side intrusion bar is a PITA, i folded my tabs over, one rattles, one doesn't. Sikaflex will be the answer, when I get round to pulling my trim off to get to it.
Re the actual wheelarch, make sure you hammer that 10mm shown in pictures 6+7 over, this makes the arch less flimsy (now that you've just chopped the right angle that strengthens it off!) Try and get it really well folded over - my car tends to catch the JT2s on it when the wheel is dropping out of the well on the way down, but that could be due to the -25 offset rims
You'll find the pictures tend to lie to you a bit, they make it look a lot simpler than it is You will almost 100% have to hammer the inner skin (the face that kind of faces the back of the car) up to get the flare to sit up as high as it should. Its also shown there before the inner skin is cut. Side intrusion bar is a PITA, i folded my tabs over, one rattles, one doesn't. Sikaflex will be the answer, when I get round to pulling my trim off to get to it.
Re the actual wheelarch, make sure you hammer that 10mm shown in pictures 6+7 over, this makes the arch less flimsy (now that you've just chopped the right angle that strengthens it off!) Try and get it really well folded over - my car tends to catch the JT2s on it when the wheel is dropping out of the well on the way down, but that could be due to the -25 offset rims
84 Rangie, 3 inch spring lift, 2 inch body, Megasquirted 4.6, R380, rear Maxi, 34x11.5 JT2s. Simex FM installed.
Those pics were from my install a few months back.
It all went pretty well. The pics were of the second rear door I done, which went a lot quicker than the first!! Front's are easy compared to the rears.
I used an air nibbler and a jigsaw to do most of the cutting.
I have a copy of the RS instructions on my site if anyone wants a copy.
Luke
It all went pretty well. The pics were of the second rear door I done, which went a lot quicker than the first!! Front's are easy compared to the rears.
I used an air nibbler and a jigsaw to do most of the cutting.
I have a copy of the RS instructions on my site if anyone wants a copy.
Luke
'88 Rangie, 3.9i, Bilstein Shocks and RS Springs, ARB Lockers F&R, 24spline rear axles, Flares, [url=http://users.on.net/~vethaak/Projects.htm]Custom centre console and cargo shelves[/url]
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 15 guests