Hi there guys, my HJ60 series cruiser seems to have a 3" suspension lift kit on it, my question is, if i fit a 2" body lift kit on, besides the radiator, air intake and transfer case selector, will there be any other complications, will the steering still reach etc? I am pretty new to all this so please dont bag me if it is a supid question. I am wanting the extra 2" so I can fit the 35" Radial Claws, or would extended shackles be better? is there any advantages or dissadvantages to either the body lift or the extended shackles?
Cheers
Azz
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Body Lift Question 60 series
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Personally, from a driving point of view, i would prefer the body lift....
Extended shackles affect castor angles, thus affecting overall driveability.
What year model 60 have you got and which transfer case is in it? Vacuum operated or L shifter?
2 inch body lift on a 60 is fairly straight forward...radiator is about the hardest thing. There are heaps of posts associated with this topic. Try the cruiser bible.
Extended shackles affect castor angles, thus affecting overall driveability.
What year model 60 have you got and which transfer case is in it? Vacuum operated or L shifter?
2 inch body lift on a 60 is fairly straight forward...radiator is about the hardest thing. There are heaps of posts associated with this topic. Try the cruiser bible.
If you want a spare 60 for bits-
http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=1109227#1109227
http://carl.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=1109227#1109227
Should take about 4 hours to do most of that undoing radiator & A/C but stright forward I think the bolts should cost u about $100 from memory
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80 Series With L98 6ltr 35's 4L80E Locked & Loaded
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96 Dual Cab Hilux build up Long range play car
www.trailtrack4x4.com
I'm with the others. Body lift over extended shackles. The shackles make on road driveability worse, specially with the steering squirm a vehicle that doesnt have a shackle reversal get with ext. shackles.
If ya have an L shifter all i had to do was extend vacuum line for brake booster from alternator to reserve tank, and i dropped the radaitor two inches and redrilled holes for mounting it.
Bolts and BLocks cost me all up $100 and about 2-3 hours of my time.
If ya have an L shifter all i had to do was extend vacuum line for brake booster from alternator to reserve tank, and i dropped the radaitor two inches and redrilled holes for mounting it.
Bolts and BLocks cost me all up $100 and about 2-3 hours of my time.
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Kool I will go that way then, its an 83 cruiser and has the L shifter, I think between me and a few mates we should knock the job on the head in a night, my biggest concern was if the steering etc was going to reach, like i read with SPOA you need to do steering mod, and I thought maybe with 3" sus and 2" body that the same steering mod might need to be done, but none of you have said it does, so I assume it doesnt
Cheers
Azz
Cheers
Azz
You don't need to undo the radiator. Just remove the shroud. The hoses will flex enough if you don't go jacking it up four inches to get ya spaces in. Hanbrake cable needs to be unbolted at it's rear mount. Rear brake hose may need to be lengthened. maybe ok if it's got lift already. As you mentioned, T/C shifter hole needs 'modifying'. Steering is fine, just slacken off the uni joint on the shaft, it has enough movement left in it. That's all i can think of for now.
Oh and as a bonus, with a 2inch body lift you now have room to fit a commodore V6 supercharger under the bonnet without a scoop
Oh and as a bonus, with a 2inch body lift you now have room to fit a commodore V6 supercharger under the bonnet without a scoop
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