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riddle me this-Loosing water-
riddle me this-Loosing water-
been getting slowly worse and wondered if it might be a head prob.after a day a driving now it sucks the over flow radiator bottle dry + some of the radiator water.....missing.no leaks,no unusual pressure in cooling system,no water in oil.it is nearly a litre of water after a hard day of 4 wheeling its worse of course when when stop start the engine........any suggestions.........
I was faced with the same problem with my HJ60 landcruiser...I started thinking worse case scenario...but it turned out to be the bottom radiator hose wasnt sealing 100%.
So my advise would be to check and double check everything before you take dramatic steps.
Take the radiator cap off at idle and check for bubbles...this is a sign on cracked head gasket if there are bubbles.
So my advise would be to check and double check everything before you take dramatic steps.
Take the radiator cap off at idle and check for bubbles...this is a sign on cracked head gasket if there are bubbles.
L.S Canvas & P.V.C
www.lscanvas.com.au
www.lscanvas.com.au
Had the same problem recently. Turned out to be a hose that would only leak while engine was running as soon as motor stopped leak stopped and as was spraying onto motor almost dried instantly so couldnt tell by inspection for water leaks. After saying that TB42 motor is renowned for cracking heads. Take oil filler cap off and pray there is no whit sludge on inside of cap. If still cant be traced take to a radiator place and have a pressure test done.
Keep fingers crossed big bucks for new or reco head. I have done two now running Allheads reco unit has extra cooling ports drilled in head. Seems to work OK looks messy and you always have to keep an eye on hoses for leaks.
Good luck
Steve
Keep fingers crossed big bucks for new or reco head. I have done two now running Allheads reco unit has extra cooling ports drilled in head. Seems to work OK looks messy and you always have to keep an eye on hoses for leaks.
Good luck
Steve
check for 1)milky oil,2) foamy water,3) bubbles in water and 4) excessive exhaust steam. 1) & 2) = cracked head. 3) & 4) = blown head gasket (hopefully)
Like Greg said, check all hoses for tight clamps and no little splits/cracks. Replace hose clamps if you haven't already as the factory nissan ones are a pos.
has it lost heaps of power too?
Mine had same symptoms and massive power loss as well as 3) & 4) mentioned above => Head gasket blown at no.6 , no cracks
I was lucky as i cooked the shite out of it a dozen or so times too! (not advisable)
Like Greg said, check all hoses for tight clamps and no little splits/cracks. Replace hose clamps if you haven't already as the factory nissan ones are a pos.
has it lost heaps of power too?
Mine had same symptoms and massive power loss as well as 3) & 4) mentioned above => Head gasket blown at no.6 , no cracks
I was lucky as i cooked the shite out of it a dozen or so times too! (not advisable)
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Premiers 1999, 2007, 2009
Spoon 2010
Premiers 1999, 2007, 2009
Spoon 2010
thanks for the info........been keeping an eye on oil and ran motor with out rad cap but nothing strange.its pretty much just water now as i had to top so many times now.exhaust is a straight through 2.5" so i thought it normal to blow a bit of moisture when cold,which it does but goes away.some one did say today like some one here that it could be evaporating on to motor ...........ill do some more checking tomorrow.
this is an interseting read, mine has a similar problem, i put some chemiweld in it and it has stopped losing water, but i suspect it is letting exhaust gases into the water jacket, as it bubbles through the radiator. im toying with the idea of removing the head myself. if its cracked will i clearly see the crack once its off? or does it need to Xrayed or similar? if its just the gasket will i be able to see where the gasket is buggered?
chemi-weld could temporarily plug a small leak in radiator or hose, etc. aswell as head crack/gasket.hi-luxmadness wrote:this is an interseting read, mine has a similar problem, i put some chemiweld in it and it has stopped losing water, but i suspect it is letting exhaust gases into the water jacket, as it bubbles through the radiator. im toying with the idea of removing the head myself. if its cracked will i clearly see the crack once its off? or does it need to Xrayed or similar? if its just the gasket will i be able to see where the gasket is buggered?
But bubbling in the radiator water suggests blown head gasket to me. (Can just be smallish infrequent single bubble every 10 secs or so). This suggests, like you say exhaust gases getting into water. A chemical test can be done too to detect traces of carbon monoxide in water.
A crack is usually quite obvious. Blown head gasket can be a bit harder to detect. Look carefully at both sides of gasket, surface of head and surface of block for tell-tale signs. rust deposits, pitting, etc. Your valves and surrounding surfaces should have deposits of carbon on them. If they are excessively clean ask yourself why. Have you been washing them with hot water?
If you remove the head you'll need to get it surfaced, so you'd be mad not to get it crack tested at the same time
oh, BTW get radiator flushed and flush your engine to get rid of that chemi-weld crap you tipped in
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Premiers 1999, 2007, 2009
Spoon 2010
Premiers 1999, 2007, 2009
Spoon 2010
Hey pootrol dont want to tell you this but the Nissan 4.2 petrol are renowned for doing the head gasket at the rear of the head right behind no six piston. There is two water gallerys there and there very close to the fireing ring on the gasket, if you are only useing the water you say you are pull the head off and have it cracked tested before you refit it but make sure you get it faced or you will be doing it again.
When you re fit the head replace the water pump and make sure you fit a pump with a cast iron impellor, the steal ones are crap and will cavetat and cause problems.
Most repairers wont warranty your head work unless you replace the water pump. When you refill with coolant remove the small hose at the top of the top radiator hose near the engine and fill it until water flows out the fitting and then put it back on.
When you first run the engine leave the radiator cap of until the engine is warm and continue to top up the coolant until it is full, these engins are dog for air locks and will give you greaf.
Cheers Darren
P.S. when these engins start to use water there normaly all the same problem, i have done about 30 of them over my time and all so far have been the same problem.
When you re fit the head replace the water pump and make sure you fit a pump with a cast iron impellor, the steal ones are crap and will cavetat and cause problems.
Most repairers wont warranty your head work unless you replace the water pump. When you refill with coolant remove the small hose at the top of the top radiator hose near the engine and fill it until water flows out the fitting and then put it back on.
When you first run the engine leave the radiator cap of until the engine is warm and continue to top up the coolant until it is full, these engins are dog for air locks and will give you greaf.
Cheers Darren
P.S. when these engins start to use water there normaly all the same problem, i have done about 30 of them over my time and all so far have been the same problem.
Have a GU 4.2 td 5"lift 35'' mudzillas, twin lockers,incresed fuel and boost(20psi) exelant power, 3'' exhaust.
nah, just remove head and seperate manifold, then take it in as is. Many head specialists will prefer if you dont clean it either so they inspect it as is.hi-luxmadness wrote:whats inolved with getting a head "faced", do you have to remove all the valves and springs before taking it in? i definately dont want to the job twice
You've just gotta remove rockers and push rods in order to remove head. Don't touch anything else!
You'll need to re-set valve clearances at 0.32mm when you put it back together. Run it and then re-adjust clearances if out.
Mine's in the shop at the moment. Getting heavier springs and new valve guides put in while its off, and surfaced/faced. I've been told to use a graphite gasket which he got for me at cost.
some ppl suggest to have moulding plugs removed and holes welded for extra strength. Mine's been cooked that hot that many times if it was ever gunna crack it would have.
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Premiers 1999, 2007, 2009
Spoon 2010
Premiers 1999, 2007, 2009
Spoon 2010
water lose
mate had same prob with falcon turned out to be welsh plug gets hot gets bigger seals the hole hot gets cold gets smaller makes hole thats why water loss when cold and over night in the falcon anyway check side of the motor for stains
all interesting.had a xf that blew the head gasket out behind no6 once before.had the gq it idling for 2hrs straight today infront of garage,noted overflow level.every so often checked over/under for water drips /none on driveway.turned it off then checked again nothing.after leaving for about 5hrs restarted but noticed overflow level down a bit.swithed off engine and the radiator returned the water to the over flow.on each start up no moisture blowing out exhaust.i have an after market crap over flow thats been extended back to firewall.i guess im looking for any thing other than removing the head but for no pressure in radiator had me a bit stuck........ill check for stains on block which will be hard due to mud and dust.......thanks fellas
For checking for leaks in hoses, radiator cores, welch plugs etc try pressurising the system. A radiator specialist can do this for you or do, what I did when trying to find out the cause of a small water loss, which was to connect my tyre inflator compressor to the rubber hose connecting the filler cap to the reservoir. As a result water spewed out of a pin hole in one of the radiator hoses which was completely undetectable before.
1982 Patrol K160 SWB (MQ) 4L P40 Petrol with Megasquirt fuel injection and EDIS ignition. Warn 8274 winch with Gigglepin head
thanks fellas ill do the pressure test,failing that ill disconnect the heater core for a bit.the rad cap is new but i would see water coming out some where if pressure wasnt right wouldnt i.?............rather look for some thing minor than discover its not the head.odds are with my luck it would be...........
You can spend all the time farting around trying to diagnose it or just go get the head done.
My example, new thermostat, pressure tested, radiator fixed, head ripped off and blown gasket.
Fixed now and it runs great except for the main seal starting to leak oil but I needed a new clutch anyway.
My example, new thermostat, pressure tested, radiator fixed, head ripped off and blown gasket.
Fixed now and it runs great except for the main seal starting to leak oil but I needed a new clutch anyway.
Weekdays - Prado GXL D4D with some stuff
Weekends - Mav shorty with lots of stuff
Weekends - Mav shorty with lots of stuff
if you do your head gasket you will have to do all that sh#t anyway.
you would be more pissed if you sent all that money on doing your head only to find that its a small bypass hose thats worth $5 causing the problems.
i sugest look at the simple things first then work up to the bigger jobs, even if you spend the $80 or so dollas to pay for proper diagnoses. that way they can run pressure test (for external leaks) or a tee-kay test to see if its infact intenal (either cracked head or head gasket)
you would be more pissed if you sent all that money on doing your head only to find that its a small bypass hose thats worth $5 causing the problems.
i sugest look at the simple things first then work up to the bigger jobs, even if you spend the $80 or so dollas to pay for proper diagnoses. that way they can run pressure test (for external leaks) or a tee-kay test to see if its infact intenal (either cracked head or head gasket)
yeah you will see a leak, but its advised that you leave the pressure at 15psi in the system for an extended period of time. if its a slow leak it may take its time to show 30-45mins is a reasonable amount of time to leave a system under pressure, all leaks should be showing after this time.pootrol wrote:thanks fellas ill do the pressure test,failing that ill disconnect the heater core for a bit.the rad cap is new but i would see water coming out some where if pressure wasnt right wouldnt i.?............rather look for some thing minor than discover its not the head.odds are with my luck it would be...........
sorry if you already know this but seen many people pressure test cooling systems for 5 or so minutes, see nothing and drive a car out only to have it come back the following week with a slow leak
I just had the same problem with my GQ 4.2 petrol, loosing 2-3 lts of water over a 4 day period, dragged the old girl to the mechanic and it was the water pump, new pump installed and it running like a dream.
Cheers.....Steve
Never argue with an idiot, as others listerning may not be able to tell the difference.
Never argue with an idiot, as others listerning may not be able to tell the difference.
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