Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Gearing for 35's
Moderator: Micka
Gearing for 35's
Just fitted up some 35's to my 80's range rover and high range is now very sluggish.
Low range still seems not too bad.
Can anyone recommend a fix for me please
I have been recommended possibly gears from a defender transfer case?
Low range still seems not too bad.
Can anyone recommend a fix for me please
I have been recommended possibly gears from a defender transfer case?
Gearing for 35's
Go with the transfer gears
the gear sets dont wear much so second hand ones are worthwhile
It's cheaper than two 4.11 diff gear sets that usually have to be new
3.54 diff gears are maginally stronger than 4.11 and available easier
Do the transfer gears first , if your still not satisfied try more power it brings more smiles to the dial than gearing will for the money spent
Cheers
the gear sets dont wear much so second hand ones are worthwhile
It's cheaper than two 4.11 diff gear sets that usually have to be new
3.54 diff gears are maginally stronger than 4.11 and available easier
Do the transfer gears first , if your still not satisfied try more power it brings more smiles to the dial than gearing will for the money spent
Cheers
out of my mind, back soon.
Well 2 choices, Rover 4.11 cw&p. Still stuck with a relatively weak set of gears. But if you have Maxi lockers and axles this would be the way to go.
Or
Toy conversion with 4.1 cw&p and Jacmac axles, a stronger set up im my opinion
just my 2c
Or
Toy conversion with 4.1 cw&p and Jacmac axles, a stronger set up im my opinion
just my 2c
Damien
--------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------
Gearing for 35's
I agree transfer is not the ideal fix but for a set of second hand gears, half a days work,a few litres of oil , $2-3 hundred you should be on your way.
4.11's front and rear minimum 2k.properly installed.
If you now have open rover diffs, then most would steer towards the toy set up. I'm not sure of their costs.
Maxidrive new with new 4.11 installed approx 3k an end.
Food for thought.
Michael.
4.11's front and rear minimum 2k.properly installed.
If you now have open rover diffs, then most would steer towards the toy set up. I'm not sure of their costs.
Maxidrive new with new 4.11 installed approx 3k an end.
Food for thought.
Michael.
out of my mind, back soon.
The defender gear set are a cheap option for road use, but like Micheal said, it's only a half-arse solutuion.
The Maxi-Drive 30% reduction low range is the best solutuion. It's about the same price as 4.11 CW&P set and only works in low which is where you want your ratio altered IMO.
With that set-up above, the total cost would cost you $2K if DIY, maybe a bit more if you have it fitted profesionally
The 4.11 CW&P set would give you roughly about 12% reduction overall in low and high from what I have been told.
Trav
The Maxi-Drive 30% reduction low range is the best solutuion. It's about the same price as 4.11 CW&P set and only works in low which is where you want your ratio altered IMO.
With that set-up above, the total cost would cost you $2K if DIY, maybe a bit more if you have it fitted profesionally
The 4.11 CW&P set would give you roughly about 12% reduction overall in low and high from what I have been told.
Trav
Land Rover- The Collingwood of 4WD's!!!!
Re: Gearing for 35's
Aquarangie wrote:
The Maxi-Drive 30% reduction low range is the best solutuion. It's about the same price as 4.11 CW&P set and only works in low which is where you want your ratio altered IMO.
Trav
paulio1 wrote:Just fitted up some 35's to my 80's range rover and high range is now very sluggish.
Low range still seems not too bad.
Defender transfer cases are dear as poison but a good fix IF your still happy with low range
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
It high range that his not happy with you guys are missing the point...
4.11 ashcroft gears http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/about.html good luck with the postage
or do a toy conversion... if you dont want lokkas then do a toy conversion as the diff as a whole is stronger... if u all ready have lokkas then get the ashcroft R&P
HTH
Mick
4.11 ashcroft gears http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/about.html good luck with the postage
or do a toy conversion... if you dont want lokkas then do a toy conversion as the diff as a whole is stronger... if u all ready have lokkas then get the ashcroft R&P
HTH
Mick
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
I dont think he can get the good ones anymore.. try jacmac as i was there a last week and showed him the ashcroft website as he was going to order some 4.11's for a client....HSV Rangie wrote:R & P
LRA $660.00 an end.
http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/20.html
change the diff ratios.
Michael.
Mick
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
Awesome replys... thanks heaps
I am after some more in high range as I do a bit of beach work and
need the high range to really sing.
Havent given the low range a good work out since the 35's so i may still
be unhappy with that too on the hills... but in the mud and light hills its fine.
I think i will go with the 4.11 CW&P. Now just gotta find the parts.
PS probably going lockers soon too... or rear locked diff and front locker..
if that changes anything in terms of options for this gearing issue.
I am after some more in high range as I do a bit of beach work and
need the high range to really sing.
Havent given the low range a good work out since the 35's so i may still
be unhappy with that too on the hills... but in the mud and light hills its fine.
I think i will go with the 4.11 CW&P. Now just gotta find the parts.
PS probably going lockers soon too... or rear locked diff and front locker..
if that changes anything in terms of options for this gearing issue.
Last edited by paulio1 on Thu Nov 30, 2006 10:19 pm, edited 2 times in total.
If you do a lot of sand work i would go the toyo conversion and get some 4.3 hilux/bundy diffspaulio1 wrote:Awesome replys... thanks heaps
I am after some more in high range as I do a bit of beach work and
need the high range to really sing.
Havent given the low range a good work out since the 35's so i may still
be unhappy with that too on the hills... but in the mud and light hills its fine.
TD5 96 Discovery UTE.
4.1's are perfect on the beach with 35's
If you can weld, think about going gq front diff and 80 series rear, they come with 4.1's as standard and much stronger
If you can weld, think about going gq front diff and 80 series rear, they come with 4.1's as standard and much stronger
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
He is running a LT95, when he is talking about transfercase gearing he is talking about a stage 1 LT95 we know of nice and cheap, his gearbox is in need of a rebuild. I have been told the stage 1 LT95 has lower gearing to the rangie one? if this is the case it would be a good cheap option and kill 2 birds with one stone, it wasnt to bad till he went from 33s to 35s and there still some problems with the motor to sort out which will get him some more low down yet.
How would the stage 1 LT95 go?
How would the stage 1 LT95 go?
From what I've read on this site (and others) It appears to me that the Defender high range set and the maxi 30% reduction set would be the way to go. Add to that maxi axles and lockers, or jacmacs, and you'r well on the way to being pretty unstoppable.
Now, why would you be going for toyota changovers etc.? Is it cheaper and easier? I can't see it as being easier.......I maen pulling out a TC is really not that hard, and if you're prepared you can do it in and out in a couple of day no probs.
Now, why would you be going for toyota changovers etc.? Is it cheaper and easier? I can't see it as being easier.......I maen pulling out a TC is really not that hard, and if you're prepared you can do it in and out in a couple of day no probs.
Not sure about pricing in AUST, but I am assuming that you can easily get your hands on two Toy 3rd members with the gearing you want, better axles and install them for less than 1200 AUST $, no? If not less, then a wee bit more, but you gain LOADS...
LR Disco truggy:
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
42" Iroks, ZF, dual cases & ARBs, 30 splined, Longfielded, OMEs, Optimas, M8274-50s, Rockstomper rope & Bead-L
LR D-90 TD5 ST:
33" BFT AT, tuned, caged, 1/2 top
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests